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["Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>]

I've budded and grafted prunus.  European plums can be grafted in spring with reasonably good luck, but Japanese plums and other Prunus always did better with budding.  Then I tried grafting to potted stocks in a greenhouse.  Bark grafts on rootstocks in the greenhouse gave essentially 100% takes, while the same varieties outside in spring were very variable. The trick seems to be that most prunus will callus and heal better in warm conditions.   Budding is always done in summer, or at least when the weather is warmer, so the stock is able to heal the buds in much better. 
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers Association "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003. 
For even more grape lessons, go to  http://www.grapeschool.com
For all other things grape,   http://www.vitisearch.com

On Dec 16, 2007, at 8:31 PM, Karen Tillou wrote:

i do some prunus grafting in spring - i try to do the work on a mild  
day, when the root stock is starting to move.  ( i don't know when  
that would be for PA)
if you have it, an unheated greenhouse is a good spot to keep the new  
grafts if they are still in pots - out of the rain and wind and snow,  
but not anywhere that will get too hot and baked either.  sometimes  
just under an eave against the sheltered east side of a building is  
enough.  and make sure you use a good grafting seal like the  
trowbridge's melty beeswax or the yellow latex stuff to get those  
little scions all sealed up tight.  no open cut surfaces or wounds!
i have the most success with spring grafting european plums, but  
asian plums and peach often take too.  i never have so many to do  
that i know if it was a me mistake or a weather/timing failure.  if  
you've got the scions, you might as well try, right?

karen
oregon city OR / zone 8a wet


On Dec 16, 2007, at 7:02 PM, Amlie & Hayas wrote:

> Hi everyone -
>
> People always refer to budding plums and peaches in the summer,
> rather than grafting over winter or at the start of Spring.  Does
> grafting these trees present any special difficulties?  I assume it
> must, otherwise you'd hear more references to grafting (instead of,
> or in addition to, budding).
>
> I'd just as soon graft this spring and get a start on some new growth
> this year.  Are there any special issues I should be aware of?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom (Lancaster Co., PA)
>
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