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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] Grafting prunus (as opposed to budding)

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  • From: "loneroc" <loneroc@mwt.net>
  • To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting prunus (as opposed to budding)
  • Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 07:42:59 -0600

Lon is correct (as usual). Although apples and pears can callus at 40-45
degrees and so do very well at ambient spring temperatures or in moderately
cold storage, callus formation in stone fruits peaks around 70F. Using
potted stone fruit rootstocks that are coming out of dormancy will work well
in spring if you can put the finished grafts under plastic in the
greenhouse. If you don't have a green house (I will one day), graft your
stone fruits as usual (stone fruits' wood is tougher than that of apples or
pears but with care you can use similar knife techniques) and keep the
finished grafts upright in a bucket with the roots loosely covered with damp
sphagnum, sawdust or simply wet decaying leaves. Cover the bucket with a
clear plastic bag. Watch the grafts closely for new growth.. Gradually
remove most sprouts that grow from beneath the graft (in the bucket and the
field) but leave at least one to help draw sap. The last competing sprout
from the rootstock shouldn't be removed until the scion growth is vigorous.
Plant out in a nursery bed when callus has formed (usually a couple weeks).
Shade heavily at first. You can move the grafts back into cold storage once
they've callused if you prefer and plant them out later.

I got the above technique from Bob Purvis, apricot grafter extraordinaire.

Steve Herje, USDA zone


----- Original Message -----
From: "Amlie & Hayas" <tamlie@netscape.com>
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:02 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] Grafting prunus (as opposed to budding)


> Hi everyone -
>
> People always refer to budding plums and peaches in the summer,
> rather than grafting over winter or at the start of Spring. Does
> grafting these trees present any special difficulties? I assume it
> must, otherwise you'd hear more references to grafting (instead of,
> or in addition to, budding).
>
> I'd just as soon graft this spring and get a start on some new growth
> this year. Are there any special issues I should be aware of?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom (Lancaster Co., PA)
>
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