North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>]

*Dr. Lee Reich: Thank you - I checked it out.  I'm going to go over there and take a look at the P. edulis to see how it's growing.  

Steve

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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 04:42:14 -0500
From: Lee Reich <lreich@hvc.rr.com>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the
	Northeast?
Message-ID: <715051F1-45E6-4EB5-A1BC-60998E2302AD@hvc.rr.com">715051F1-45E6-4EB5-A1BC-60998E2302AD@hvc.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

A number of the pines you list have been growing in the NY Botanical Garden for 
decades. The best one for the northeast are the very hardy Korean pine (Pinus 
koreansis); also good are the Swiss Stone pine (P. cembra) and the Siberian pine 
(P. sibirico). I've been growing Korean pine for 10-20 years and just recently 
have seen some cones up at the top of the tree.

Lee Reich, PhD
http://www.leereich.com/
http://leereich.com/blog.html.

-----Original Message-----
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To: nafex <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Wed, Dec 15, 2010 8:26 am
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 95, Issue 17

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Today's Topics:

   1. grafting persimmons, sourcing rootstocks (Justin West)
   2. Re: Why tarp covered figs die (Caren Kirk)
   3. Native Australian Fruits Bear Sweet Antioxidants (Douglas Woodard)
   4. Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
      (Steven Covacci)
   5. Astringency in certain fruits & vegetables;	stomach & GI
      tract bezoars. (Steven Covacci)
   6. Asian pears: fire-blight resistant cultivars; and
      inter-generic pear hybrids (Steven Covacci)
   7. Cold-hardy cultivars of Black Mulberry (M. nigra) - USDA	zone
      6/7a (Steven Covacci)
   8. Re: Hawthorn, Juneberry/Serviceberry responses (Steven Covacci)
   9. Re: Hardy Pomegranate cultivars;	nafex Digest, Vol 95, Issue
      8 (Steven Covacci)
  10. Re: Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
      (Lee Reich)
  11. Re: Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
      (jelie@new.rr.com)
  12. Re: why tarp covered figs die (Scott Smith)
  13. Re: Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
      (David Consolvo)
  14. pine nuts (Hector Black)
  15. Out-of-zone blackberries (Jim Fruth)
  16. Re: Hardy Pomegranate cultivars;	nafex Digest, Vol 95, Issue
      8 (Scott Smith)
  17. Re: Hardy Pomegranate cultivars;	nafex Digest, Vol 95, Issue
      8 (Dr. Lucky Pittman)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:33:47 -0500
From: Justin West <cjustinwest@gmail.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] grafting persimmons, sourcing rootstocks
Message-ID:
	<AANLkTinmp8gryLsnQEJda_TkasJpNVR1uQfV9jRe7kF9@mail.gmail.com">AANLkTinmp8gryLsnQEJda_TkasJpNVR1uQfV9jRe7kF9@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

 Can anyone comment on grafting persimmons and or sourcing rootstocks for
them.  I am interested in grafting some kaki persimmons and wondering what
the best rootstocks would be to use, and whether or not people have
experienced issues related to their apparent distaste for root disturbance.

thanks
justin
zone 6-7 nj
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 21:36:26 -0500
From: Caren Kirk <quirky@videotron.ca>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Why tarp covered figs die
Message-ID: <4D0829AA.7070402@videotron.ca">4D0829AA.7070402@videotron.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

  Jim,

I bring my rosemary inside for the winter in pots, harvest fresh 
rosemary all winter for my roasts, and plant them back out in spring. 
They won't survive here left in situ, even in with loads of mulch in my 
well-sheltered, deep snow covered herb garden (the warmest and best 
protected part of my yard).

Such is the life up north!

Caren Kirk
St. Jerome, QC

On 12/12/2010 11:01 AM, Jim Fruth wrote:
>    Following up on Alan Haigh's call for more research on this 
> subject, I have had some experience with this too.
>
>    Mine was an attempt to overwinter Rosemary plants (an evergreen).  
> I planted them atop the septic tank so they could benefit from its 
> heat. First I covered them with leaves with a tarp on top and all 
> plants rotted. Next I covered them with pine needles and a tarp; few 
> plants survived while most rotted.  I repeated the pine needle 
> experiment one more year carefully checking the plants to determine 
> when to pull off the needles.  That worked except that I had to 
> remulch the plants every time a Spring freeze was predicted.  Then I 
> decided it was too much work for too little gain and I abandoned the 
> project.
>
> Jim Fruth
> Brambleberry Fruit Farm
> 4002 Davis Street
> Pequot Lakes, MN  56472
> 1-218-831-7018 (My Cell)
> _______________________________________________
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 02:00:20 -0500
From: Douglas Woodard <dwoodard@becon.org>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Native Australian Fruits Bear Sweet Antioxidants
Message-ID: <4D086784.4010309@becon.org">4D086784.4010309@becon.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

See
<http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/08/070802103444.htm>

Doug Woodard
St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 02:15:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
Message-ID: <8CD6A3F0BB87B16-139C-6BFD@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com">8CD6A3F0BB87B16-139C-6BFD@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

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?X?v?'{ij?@?t?-?mi?fz{pj????y?.m?????l????*(??j)fj??+???i????mi?fz{l?m5?]??????????g?f

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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 02:18:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Astringency in certain fruits & vegetables;	stomach &
	GI tract bezoars.
Message-ID: <8CD6A3F5A0A799D-139C-6C30@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com">8CD6A3F5A0A799D-139C-6C30@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"



Topic: Astringency in certain fruits &vegetables; stomach & GI tract bezoars.


Aside from celery, coconut, pumpkin,leeks, beets, raisins, citrus, I would think 
under-rip bananas,  and,of course, under-ripe persimmons, does any one know if 
any of thefollowing fruits can also, in large and frequent quantities, resultin 
bezoars is humans and live-stock:


*Autumn olive; goumi; Russian olive;silverberry; etc.
*American plum and other tart-skinnedplums
*wild grapes, like northern foxgrape


I sometimes over-do the Autumn oliveson hikes ? my stomach feels the same as 
when I consume under-ripepersimmons; I think that they have a high ratio of 
indigestiblecellulose and tannic acid.


Thanks,
Steve Covacci
USDA zone 6b/7a; New Jersey


(p.s. to reduce redundancy ? whenreplying, where practical, please remove my 
original text, except forsubject heading and specific points being replied to.)

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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 02:20:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Asian pears: fire-blight resistant cultivars; and
	inter-generic pear hybrids
Message-ID: <8CD6A3FB6A4BE24-139C-6C5B@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com">8CD6A3FB6A4BE24-139C-6C5B@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"



 Asian pears: fire-blight resistant cultivars; and inter-generic pear hybrids


What are the most fire-blight resistantcultivars of Asian pear?  I believe that 
Cliff (KY) does really wellwith Chojuro and Yoinashi, if I remember correctly.  
Out here (NJ), afriend grows these two and has had no problem either.
Side question: European pear (Pyruscommunis) and European mountain-ash (Sorbus 
acuparia) can readilycross-pollinate, open-pollinated.  Rarely is the resulting 
offspring,Shipova, reproductively viable and to what extent even those are, 
Iforgot ? tests were done at the Arnold Arboretum.  As far as I cantell, it 
looks as though European pear and American mountain-ash (S.sorbus) can 
hybridize.
Since European pear and Asian pear (P.serotina) can easily hybridize, I suppose 
that Asian pear andAmerican mountain-ash can.  Is this true?  And since 
Americanmountain-ash and chokeberry (Photinia/Aronia) can form aninter-generic 
hybrid naturally ? albeit rarely(?), can pear andchokeberry cross?


Thanks,
Steve Covacci
USDA zone 6b/7a; New Jersey


(p.s. to reduce redundancy ? whenreplying, where practical, please remove my 
original text, except forsubject heading and specific points being replied to.)

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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 02:23:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Cold-hardy cultivars of Black Mulberry (M. nigra) -
	USDA	zone 6/7a
Message-ID: <8CD6A40133A3FE9-139C-6C8C@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com">8CD6A40133A3FE9-139C-6C8C@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"



Cold-hardy cultivars of Black Mulberry(M. nigra)


Cliff England - England's Orchard &Nursery - has a cultivar of black mulberry 
(Morus nigra) which isexceptional in that it is very cold-hardy and has done 
well for yearsin his orchard in Kentucky, zone 6a.   The name of this cultivar 
is'Javid Iranian Black Gem' - source: northern Iran.  To my knowledgethis is the 
most cold-hardy black mulberry cultivar in the trade. Are there other cultivars 
suitable for zone 6b or if ?7a? - assome advertize, then a definite 7a where it 
is possible to hit alittle bellow 0 F., albeit very rarely and for  a 
short-period.


Also, one source claims that there is very little genetic variation among M. 
nigra clones and that the seed is inviable; doesn't sound right but if anyone 
knows something about this, please let us know.


Thanks,
Steve Covacci
USDA zone 6b/7a; New Jersey


(p.s. to reduce redundancy ? whenreplying, where practical, please remove my 
original text, except forsubject heading and specific points being replied to.)



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 03:35:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Hawthorn, Juneberry/Serviceberry responses
Message-ID: <8CD6A4A2EADFAC6-139C-7193@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com">8CD6A4A2EADFAC6-139C-7193@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Your favorite Hawthorns,Juneberries/Serviceberries,Crab-apple 
- and Munson plum discussion


*Ron Lonbough: Interesting info about Crataegus mollis being biennial and that 
Burbank may have worked with Prunus munsoniana - I think it's going to turn out 
to be a favorite of mine.
*Martha Davis: I'll have to check that book out then.  Very good point - there 
is probably little point to me asking people from different ecotype locations to 
describe to me the best members of a genus.  Yet, for now, I'll have to work 
with that when it comes to fruits that are too rare for me to find in the local 
wild. Like you said, I'll just have to continue to hike around and find what 
works best for where I am.
*Lucky: Out of Malus coronaria, M. angustifolia, and M. ioensis, if you had to 
pick pick one as the best for culinary use or eating out-of-hand, although not 
that good, which would they be?  How is the large-fruited one from your fathers 
place in Alabama?
Is the Amaelanchier laevis that you described a better or different-flavored 
fruit then the A. x grandiflora seedlings you have?  


Thanks,
Steve


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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 03:47:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven Covacci <filtertitle@aol.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Hardy Pomegranate cultivars;	nafex Digest, Vol
	95, Issue 8
Message-ID: <8CD6A4BDD89F127-139C-7298@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com">8CD6A4BDD89F127-139C-7298@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"




*Scott Smith:  Interesting.  What are the supposedly shorter-season varieties of 
pomegranate that you're now trying?




Message: 14
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2010 09:29:17 -0500
From: Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Zone Range Limit (6/7): Date-Palm, Pomegranate,
	Strawberry-Tree, Fuzzy Kiwi, Kaki, OTHERS?
Message-ID: <30254495-670A-448D-A5D5-6CF70C9112E2@cs.jhu.edu">30254495-670A-448D-A5D5-6CF70C9112E2@cs.jhu.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm at the 6B/7A border in MD .. usually the lowest low each year is in the -2F 
to 2F range.

Hardy pomegranates - two years of very minor dieback
Fuzzy kiwi - 8 years, no dieback.  Main problem is too-short season for fruit 
maturity, trying several supposedly shorter-season varieties now.


On Dec 8, 2010, at 2:09 AM, Steven Covacci wrote:

> 
> This thread concerns Zones 6a through 7a...
> 
> Zone Range Limit: Date-Palm, Pomegranate, Strawberry-Tree, Fuzzy-Kiwi, 
Japanese Persimmon, & other??? semi-hardy subtropics (Zones 6a through 7a)
> 
> WITHOUT (much) winter protection, how far have you been able to push the USDA 
zone range limit for the following fruit types?









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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 04:42:14 -0500
From: Lee Reich <lreich@hvc.rr.com>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the
	Northeast?
Message-ID: <715051F1-45E6-4EB5-A1BC-60998E2302AD@hvc.rr.com">715051F1-45E6-4EB5-A1BC-60998E2302AD@hvc.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

A number of the pines you list have been growing in the NY Botanical Garden for 
decades. The best one for the northeast are the very hardy Korean pine (Pinus 
koreansis); also good are the Swiss Stone pine (P. cembra) and the Siberian pine 
(P. sibirico). I've been growing Korean pine for 10-20 years and just recently 
have seen some cones up at the top of the tree.

Lee Reich, PhD
http://www.leereich.com/
http://leereich.com/blog.html.

Books by Lee Reich:
A Northeast Gardener's Year
The Pruning Book
Weedless Gardening
Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden
Landscaping with Fruit






On Dec 15, 2010, at 2:15 AM, Steven Covacci wrote:

> 
> Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
> 
> Topic: Pine Nuts ? US Native
> 
> Is there a species or more of pine nut/pinyon that is/are indigenous to North 
America (west coast and midwest) that can be successfully grown and will produce 
(even if marginally) in the Northeast/mid-Atlantic ? i.e. New Jersey, zone 
6b/7a.
> 
> North American pine nuts traditionally cultivated that are indigenous to USDA 
zone 6 (and lower): short-leaf pine (P. echinata); two-needle pinyon (P. 
edulis); sugar pine (P. lambertiana); California foothill pine (P. sabiniana); 
and Torrey pine (P. torreyana).
> 
> Even though these specific pines come from like USDA zone regions, the many 
climatic differences (i.e. moisture, photo period, etc.) and differences in 
elevation (I'm near sea level) make it seem unlikely that I could grow any one 
of these. However, there is a state park in upstate NY (high elevation) that, 
perhaps erroneously, lists hosting one of these ? I forgot the species - and I 
think that I remember seeing one or more of these in a champion tree catalogues 
of neighboring states.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve Covacci
> USDA zone 6b/7a; New Jersey
> 
> (p.s. to reduce redundancy ? when replying, where practical, please remove my 
original text, except for subject heading and specific points being replied to.)
> __________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> 
> Reproduction of list messages or archives is not allowed.
> This includes distribution on other email lists or reproduction on web sites.
> Permission to reproduce is NEVER granted, so don't claim you have permission!
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 5:08:10 -0500
From: <jelie@new.rr.com>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the
	Northeast?
Message-ID: <20101215100810.69QHI.31640.root@hrndva-web08-z01>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Hey All,

I cannot recall the source but, have read that grafting the Korean Nut Pine to 
the faster growing, Eastern White Pine, really speeds things up.  

Jim Elie
Pulaski, WI
zone 4

---- Lee Reich <lreich@hvc.rr.com> wrote: 
> A number of the pines you list have been growing in the NY Botanical Garden 
for decades. The best one for the northeast are the very hardy Korean pine 
(Pinus koreansis); also good are the Swiss Stone pine (P. cembra) and the 
Siberian pine (P. sibirico). I've been growing Korean pine for 10-20 years and 
just recently have seen some cones up at the top of the tree.
> 
> Lee Reich, PhD
> http://www.leereich.com/
> http://leereich.com/blog.html.
> 
> Books by Lee Reich:
> A Northeast Gardener's Year
> The Pruning Book
> Weedless Gardening
> Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden
> Landscaping with Fruit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Dec 15, 2010, at 2:15 AM, Steven Covacci wrote:
> 
> > 
> > Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
> > 
> > Topic: Pine Nuts ? US Native
> > 
> > Is there a species or more of pine nut/pinyon that is/are indigenous to 
North America (west coast and midwest) that can be successfully grown and will 
produce (even if marginally) in the Northeast/mid-Atlantic ? i.e. New Jersey, 
zone 6b/7a.
> > 
> > North American pine nuts traditionally cultivated that are indigenous to 
USDA zone 6 (and lower): short-leaf pine (P. echinata); two-needle pinyon (P. 
edulis); sugar pine (P. lambertiana); California foothill pine (P. sabiniana); 
and Torrey pine (P. torreyana).
> > 
> > Even though these specific pines come from like USDA zone regions, the many 
climatic differences (i.e. moisture, photo period, etc.) and differences in 
elevation (I'm near sea level) make it seem unlikely that I could grow any one 
of these. However, there is a state park in upstate NY (high elevation) that, 
perhaps erroneously, lists hosting one of these ? I forgot the species - and I 
think that I remember seeing one or more of these in a champion tree catalogues 
of neighboring states.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Steve Covacci
> > USDA zone 6b/7a; New Jersey
> > 
> > (p.s. to reduce redundancy ? when replying, where practical, please remove 
my original text, except for subject heading and specific points being replied 
to.)
> > __________________________________________________
> > _______________________________________________
> > nafex mailing list
> > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > 
> > Reproduction of list messages or archives is not allowed.
> > This includes distribution on other email lists or reproduction on web 
sites.
> > Permission to reproduce is NEVER granted, so don't claim you have 
permission!
> > 
> > **YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED TO POST!**
> > Posts from email addresses that are not subscribed are discarded.
> > No exceptions.
> > ----
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe, go to the bottom of this page (also can be used 
to change other email options):
> > http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > 
> > File attachments are NOT stripped by this list.
> > TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF FROM COMPUTER VIRUSES!
> > Please do not send binary files.
> > Use plain text ONLY in emails!
> > 
> > NAFEX web site:   http://www.nafex.org/
> 



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 08:30:18 -0500
From: Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] why tarp covered figs die
Message-ID: <0AEDEEA6-6DA9-42B6-8121-F642CC21E482@cs.jhu.edu">0AEDEEA6-6DA9-42B6-8121-F642CC21E482@cs.jhu.edu>
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I have heard this explanation from many sources and I believe it.  Along with it 
I often hear to cover figs late and uncover early to minimize the problem.

I use aluminum bubble insulation tents as my covering to avoid this problem - it 
reflects the sun during the day and so will not overheat the plants during a 
sunny warm day in winter.  Here is a picture of some figs I covered: 
http://www.slant.com/pictures/orchard/DSC_0027.jpg  The tent was built with 
ordinary staples and is attached to the ground with ground staples; note the 
large area of ground covered to maximize the heat of the ground coming up.  
There is nothing inside the cover besides the figs, in my climate the insulation 
alone provides enough protection; the fact that it protects from the desiccating 
winds probably also helps.  I put a thermometer inside one year, and found that 
when it was about 0F outside it was about 15F under the cover.  For even more 
protection run in a single 10watt bulb which is kept on all winter.

Scott z6/7 MD

On Dec 11, 2010, at 11:15 AM, Alan Haigh wrote:

> I have a few loosely science based explanations for why a tree might die when 
insulated with leaves and then covered with a tarp but survive with only the 
leaves.  Of course it's still only an opinion based on the research of a couple 
trees on two different seasons which is hardly very comprehensive and the 
opinion is little more than an anecdotal observation.
> 
> Here it is.  The tarp traps enough heat during warm spells to break the figs 
dormancy enough to make it more vulnerable to cold temps.  It's either that or 
the tree rots from too much humidity (this is how the tree looked).  Or it was 
just a coincidence and the difference was weather conditions of alternate 
seasons.
> 
> I hope someone will do some more experiments to sort this out- meanwhile I'm 
OK with putting my trees in the well house.  Digging them up cuts enough roots 
to help dwarf them and it's actually quicker than putting up a fence ring and 
filling with leaves.



------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 09:05:15 -0500
From: "David Consolvo" <fruitopia@firstva.com>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the
	Northeast?
Message-ID: <201012150905.AA9175278@mail.firstva.com">201012150905.AA9175278@mail.firstva.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1


I've been growing Korean pines in central Virginia for over ten years, very 
healthy 
but with extremely slow growth and no cones yet.  They were difficult to get 
started 
too (i.e. many seedlings died).

There is a Korean television show about pretty city girls working on homesteads 
in 
the country (I love my satellite dish).  In one episode about pine nuts, the 
trees 
were laboriously climbed, the cones were thrown to the ground, and then burned 
in a fire started with dry pine needles.  Then the cones could be stepped on and 

the nuts picked out easily, already roasted.

The shell, however, does not look easy to get out the small nut-meat.  All in 
all, 
not an easy process, but burning the cones looks like it really helps.
~David Consolvo
Hungrytown, Virginia

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Lee Reich <lreich@hvc.rr.com>
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Date:  Wed, 15 Dec 2010 04:42:14 -0500

>A number of the pines you list have been growing in the NY Botanical Garden for 

decades. The best one for the northeast are the very hardy Korean pine (Pinus 
koreansis); also good are the Swiss Stone pine (P. cembra) and the Siberian pine 
(P. 
sibirico). I've been growing Korean pine for 10-20 years and just recently have 
seen some cones up at the top of the tree.
>
>Lee Reich, PhD
>http://www.leereich.com/
>http://leereich.com/blog.html.
>
>Books by Lee Reich:
>A Northeast Gardener's Year
>The Pruning Book
>Weedless Gardening
>Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden
>Landscaping with Fruit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>On Dec 15, 2010, at 2:15 AM, Steven Covacci wrote:
>
>> 
>> Any US-Native Pine Nut/Pinyon for or the Northeast?
>> 
>> Topic: Pine Nuts ? US Native
>> 
>> Is there a species or more of pine nut/pinyon that is/are indigenous to North 

America (west coast and midwest) that can be successfully grown and will produce 

(even if marginally) in the Northeast/mid-Atlantic ? i.e. New Jersey, zone 
6b/7a.
>> 
>> North American pine nuts traditionally cultivated that are indigenous to USDA 

zone 6 (and lower): short-leaf pine (P. echinata); two-needle pinyon (P. 
edulis); 
sugar pine (P. lambertiana); California foothill pine (P. sabiniana); and Torrey 
pine 
(P. torreyana).
>> 
>> Even though these specific pines come from like USDA zone regions, the many 
climatic differences (i.e. moisture, photo period, etc.) and differences in 
elevation 
(I'm near sea level) make it seem unlikely that I could grow any one of these. 
However, there is a state park in upstate NY (high elevation) that, perhaps 
erroneously, lists hosting one of these ? I forgot the species - and I think 
that I 
remember seeing one or more of these in a champion tree catalogues of 
neighboring states.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve Covacci
>> USDA zone 6b/7a; New Jersey
>> 
>> (p.s. to reduce redundancy ? when replying, where practical, please remove my 

original text, except for subject heading and specific points being replied to.)
>> __________________________________________________
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
>
 




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------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 08:47:47 -0600
From: "Hector Black" <hblack1925@fastmail.fm>
To: "nafex Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [NAFEX] pine nuts
Message-ID: <1C8C61B8E1DE4070B559A0AEAF54459F@hectordesktop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Our Koren pine grafted to white pine must be 25 years old or more.  They hve 
been bearing for maybe 4 years, but getting the cones is a real problem.  Way up 
at the top of the trees, not many of them, and it's almost impossible to gather 
the tiny nuts when they fall because other creatures get there first.  No cones 
yet on the Siberian pine which is the same age.  We've tried Pinyon pine but 
they succomb to our high humidity.  Hector Black zone 6 middle TN
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 08:48:29 -0600
From: "Jim Fruth" <jimfruth@charter.net>
To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [NAFEX] Out-of-zone blackberries
Message-ID: <6DF4B9C71F5E4ED5B5F6A50099D151FF@ibma20plaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
	reply-type=original

Melissa wrote, "............I've also been hearing good things about laying 
the canes down and mulching them................."

    Years ago I mulched blackberries and found it handy to put a tarp over 
the weighted down canes and put the mulch atop the tarp.  The tarp trapped 
more ground heat than mulch alone and I didn't have to remove mulch that 
clung to the canes.
    If you opt for the tarp, just be sure that you remove it early enough in 
the Spring because, if left on too long, you could have a build-up of mildew 
and/or rotting canes.

Jim Fruth
Brambleberry Fruit Farm
4002 Davis Street
Pequot Lakes, MN  56472
1-218-831-7018 (My Cell)



------------------------------

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 10:52:18 -0500
From: Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Hardy Pomegranate cultivars;	nafex Digest, Vol
	95, Issue 8
Message-ID: <2565BAD1-AEEF-44DF-A983-554CCE227E85@cs.jhu.edu">2565BAD1-AEEF-44DF-A983-554CCE227E85@cs.jhu.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Steven, the shorter-season varieties I was referring to there are kiwis.  Blake 
and Exbury are two particular ones I am trying.  For pomegranates my impression 
is most of the hardy ones ripen early enough so season length is not as big a 
problem as it is with fuzzy kiwis.  Ashton's excellent book on pomegranates has 
good information on hardy pomegranates.

Scott

On Dec 15, 2010, at 3:47 AM, Steven Covacci wrote:

> 
> *Scott Smith:  Interesting.  What are the supposedly shorter-season varieties 
of pomegranate that you're now trying?
> 
> 
> Hardy pomegranates - two years of very minor dieback
> Fuzzy kiwi - 8 years, no dieback.  Main problem is too-short season for fruit 
> maturity, trying several supposedly shorter-season varieties now.
> 
> 

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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 11:01:02 -0600
From: "Dr. Lucky Pittman" <lucky.pittman@murraystate.edu>
To: "'North American Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Hardy Pomegranate cultivars;	nafex Digest, Vol
	95, Issue 8
Message-ID: <4d08f44f.86a8e60a.14cf.3b43@mx.google.com">4d08f44f.86a8e60a.14cf.3b43@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Scott mentioned Richard Ashton's book, "The Incredible Pomegranate".

Electronic copies of it, Richard's other books on jujubes, plums, sweet
cherries, and Dr. Levin's book on pomegranates, can be purchased &
downloaded here:

 

http://www.3mpub.com/ashton/

 

Hope this helps.

Lucky

 

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