permaculture

[<scott@permaculture.org>]

See comments below:

Scott Pittman

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
>  To: permaculture <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
>  Subject: Re: [permaculture] Earthships
>  Sent: Jul 26 '16 16:06
>  
>  On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
>  wrote:
>  
>  > My take on this is:
>  >
>  > build small, exactly what space you must have
>  > use extremely durable materials
>  > use easy or no maintenance materials
>  > use super insulation for year round comfort
>  > use thermal heat storage in winter (the floor and walls (interior) that
>  > serve to keep living space cool in summer combined with appropriate roof
>  > overhangs
>  >
>  > this really works
>  > I can provide details on materials and building techniques if anyone is
>  > interested; will post to the list.
>  >
>  
>  Bona fide permaculture survival nuts and bolts dwelling design and
>  construction.
>  
>  1)
>  Build on high ground well drained and substrate compacted

I would just say build above the flood plain, as oftentimes being on high 
ground subjects one to wind and wind related disasters.>  

2)
>  Pour monolithic slab on grade (slab and footings one piece)

**Concrete is one of the greatest contributors to green house gasses and 
therefore global warming, soil cement floors lessens our environmental 
footprint

>  3)
>  Lay up exterior walls with heavy concrere blocks with door and window
>  openings

**See comments on item 2

>  4)
>  Glue rigid foam insulation panels to interior surface of wall, 8" worth
>  minimum, preferably 10" or 12"

**Rigid foam is a petroleum product and many forms out-gas toxic gasses as 
well and contribute to greenhouse gasses.  Strawbale (where climatically 
appropriate) is cheaper and is a super insulator, or one can use recycled 
paper prepped with borax to prevent combustion and insects.

>  5)
>  lay up interior heavy concrete block wall to finish cavity wall with cavity
>  insulation

**See comment on item 2 & 3

>  OR skip 4) and spray heavy duty waterproof foam insulation into wall cavity
>  after laying up interior wall

**See comment on Item 4

>  6)
>  glue 6-8" rigid foam insulation to floor, between rows of bricks or blocks
>  to support slab to be poured over insulation for final finished concrere
>  floor

**One only need insulate the footing to below the frost line and then 
insulate four feet outside perimeter of slab otherwise one loses the slab 
earth interface as a heat sink for storage.


>  7) pour finish floor - use 6000 psi indoor concrete without fiber(glass)
>  and finish to a glasslike finish - do what is necessary to prvent slab
>  cracking - this usually means sawing grooves in the slab.

**See comment on item 2, It is also easier to put in the expansion joints 
before pouring rather than cutting grooves in the finished slab.


>  8)
>  For a wooden floor simply glue pressure treated lumber to slab and nail
>  plywood subflooring to that. I would recommend spraying foam insulation
>  between the pressure treated lumber strips (1 1/2" gap) attached to
>  concrete floor, under the subflooring. I would spray foam then immediately
>  attach the subflooring so it can become glued to the wet insulation and
>  harden in place creating great floor structural rigidity. Then nail final
>  flooring down.

**Whenever possible eliminate using forest products in construction.  The 
wood is much better used as a carbon sink.

>  9) Finish framing the structure.

**See comment on item 8> 

 10) Insulate stud space wherever there are stud walls, if any, with spray
>  foam insulation, the heavy duty waterproof kind. Finish roof framing and
>  insulate the rafters the same way. Use plywood for ceiling then cover with
>  panelling of choice.

**Much cheaper and environmentally conscious to use recycled paper sprayed 
into to cavity space.

>  11) Roof structure with galvanized, prepainted 26 gauge (minimum) metal
>  roofing available anywhere.

If galvanized needn't be painted, the zinc surface is a good reflector of 
heat during the summer months.


>  12) Go minimalist an super mega hyper insulation. Concrere interior and
>  exterior walls, inexpensive, lifetime, zero maintenance, fireproof,
>  rotproof, attractive
>  no paint needed. Go for architectural overruns from concrete block
>  manufacturer/distributor; they always have them for way less than half full
>  retail or less.

**Aside from comments above on the huge contribution that concrete makes to 
global warming.  Hassan Fathy, Egyptian architect who wrote "Architecture for 
the Poor" stated that concrete walls emit a piezoelectric field that is 
harmful to humans, particularly to children.  
>  
>  I can provide even more detail regarding construction and materials.

**Me too...
>  --
>  Lawrence F. London
>  lfljvenaura@gmail.com
>  https://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared
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