nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
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[NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees
- From: Scott Breneman <sbreneman@yourgoodwill.org>
- To: "'nafex@lists.ibiblio.org'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: [NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees
- Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 09:50:23 -0400
When is the best time to transplant persimmon trees--breaking dormancy?
Also I can't grow grass under pecan trees? is there a juglone-resistant type:?
Scott
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Contents of nafex digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. pruning plums (Alan Haigh)
2. Re: Dark Strawberry (Melissa Kacalanos)
3. Fimco trailer sprayers (V. Michael Bove, Jr.)
4. Re: mychorizal fungal rip off? (Anton Callaway)
5. Re: mychorizal fungal rip off? (Ginda Fisher)
6. Re: pruning plums (Steve)
7. Newspaper as mulch (Harrick, Barbara)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:25:42 -0400
From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] pruning plums
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Message-ID:
<1f544d60903221025mfd14a09l9cfd10953a871756@mail.gmail.com>
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Forgot to mention that I always start off by training trees to a central
leader but sooner or later settle often on an open center.
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:01:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melissa Kacalanos <mijwiz@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Dark Strawberry
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <844659.89960.qm@web31911.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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I tried searching the Geneva, NY experiment station, and I might have been
searching wrong, but I can't find any trace of a strawberry breeding program
there, or a strawberry called 'Black Beauty.' The talk I attended at Geneva
was in the early '90's, and the strawberry breeder who showed the slide of
this black strawberry seemed pretty down on it. I don't recall exactly, but
he may have implied that he'd already thrown these useless plants away.
On the topic of dark strawberries in general, all I can find is this
collection, not inclluding 'Black Beauty,' at Corvallis, Oregon:
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cor/catalogs/fradark.html
There's a photo of the fruit of only one variety, 'Tillikum,' and while it is
a pretty saturated red, it's nowhere near the almost-black I remember from
that slide. I don't know what color the others in the list are, but maybe
some of them are darker.
Melissa
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 20:19:04 -0400
From: "V. Michael Bove, Jr." <vmb@teakettlefarm.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] Fimco trailer sprayers
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <3EBDD9FF-A8E7-4687-AB90-0A013405A0D0@teakettlefarm.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
Hoping to save my back from the weight of a full backpack sprayer I'd decided
to get a 15-gallon Fimco trailer sprayer this year, and when I saw that the
Tractor Supply store had them on sale this weekend for what seemed to be
$50-60 less than all the mail-order suppliers were asking, I grabbed one.
After getting it home I found that there are two variants of Fimco 15- gallon
sprayer: the one that pretty much every other place carries (with a 2 GPM
pump), and the one that Tractor Supply carries (essentially the same but with
a 1 GPM pump and a slightly different spray wand). Does anyone have
experience spraying dwarf trees with the latter? Just making sure I won't be
too disappointed with the reach or coverage... Thanks.
--Michael Bove
Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 23:10:18 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Anton Callaway <marillen@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] mychorizal fungal rip off?
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID:
<8259391.1237777818446.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Ever seen what they do to the soil to "develop" a subdivision?
Mychorrizal inoculations are worth it. I was skeptical until I did a
side-by-side comparison on several rows of potatoes. Pretty impressive
results.
Maybe in lightly disturbed soil, there would be no diff. But where the
bulldozers have wreaked havoc, some help is noticed.
Zone 8
Pears starting to bloom.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 21, 2009 1:16 PM
>To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>Subject: [NAFEX] mychorizal fungal rip off?
>
>When I was in hort school the research on mychorizal relationships was
>still pretty fresh and I was enthralled to the point of reading a lot
>of it in their library just out of curiosity. It was amazing to think
>that all the trees in the forest are connected by these fungus which
>makes the whole forest seem to be one organism.
>
>When the products came out touting the benefit of applications of these
>organisms I assumed that it was just typical marketing BS. The
>research I read indicated that these fungus aren't very species
>specific beyond trees not having relationships with the same species as
>prairie plants. The conclusion was that anywhere trees grow there are
>already plenty of M.
>fungus in the soil, tree compatible, unless it is in a strictly prairie
>environment or where strip mining has been practiced. In these sites a
>few shovels full of forest soil would accomplish any needed inoculation.
>
>Is there any reason to think anything different?
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 23:18:04 -0400
From: Ginda Fisher <list@ginda.us>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] mychorizal fungal rip off?
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <39ACD2EF-4350-4D6A-A6FB-70F221E201E9@ginda.us>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
Interesting point. I grow stuff on land that's been mostly undisturbed for
50 years. I tried mychorizal fungus a bit when I started, and then I decided
that if it had worked, the stuff must still be in the soil and would "infect"
whatever else I put there. I didn't do a good controlled test, but I
certainly didn't notice any difference when I started or stopped using it.
Ginda Fisher
eastern MA, zone 6
crocuses just starting to bloom, and the buds on the apricot and cornus mas
are swelling.
On Mar 22, 2009, at 11:10 PM, Anton Callaway wrote:
> Ever seen what they do to the soil to "develop" a subdivision?
>
> Mychorrizal inoculations are worth it. I was skeptical until I did a
> side-by-side comparison on several rows of potatoes. Pretty
> impressive results.
>
> Maybe in lightly disturbed soil, there would be no diff. But where
> the bulldozers have wreaked havoc, some help is noticed.
>
> Zone 8
> Pears starting to bloom.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
>> Sent: Mar 21, 2009 1:16 PM
>> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Subject: [NAFEX] mychorizal fungal rip off?
>>
>> When I was in hort school the research on mychorizal relationships
>> was still pretty fresh and I was enthralled to the point of reading a
>> lot of it in their library just out of curiosity. It was amazing to
>> think that all the trees in the forest are connected by these fungus
>> which makes the whole forest seem to be one organism.
>>
>> When the products came out touting the benefit of applications of
>> these organisms I assumed that it was just typical marketing BS. The
>> research I read indicated that these fungus aren't very species
>> specific beyond trees
>> not having relationships with the same species as prairie plants.
>> The
>> conclusion was that anywhere trees grow there are already plenty of
>> M.
>> fungus in the soil, tree compatible, unless it is in a strictly
>> prairie environment or where strip mining has been practiced. In
>> these sites a few shovels full of forest soil would accomplish any
>> needed inoculation.
>>
>> Is there any reason to think anything different?
>
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 00:22:06 -0400
From: Steve <sdw12986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] pruning plums
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <49C70E6E.9090108@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
Thanks Alan. I won't decide until I have the pruners in my hand, but right
now I'm thinking I'll go for an open center on the 2 Europeans and
a modified central leader on the Alderman. Maybe I can keep the Alderman
under control by repeatedly cutting back the central leader to a weaker shoot
and eventually letting the lower scaffolds grow up (and
out) to compete with it.
My yard seems to grow plums very well, for some reason. In spite of the short
growing season the slower growing Opal is probably 7 feet tall with some good
horizontal branches well on their way. The other 2 are well over 10 feet tall
(but no more than an inch across the lower trunk). These were no more than 4
feet tall when I planted them in April of 2007.
Steve in the Adirondacks
Alan Haigh wrote:
> Forgot to mention that I always start off by training trees to a
> central leader but sooner or later settle often on an open center.
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 06:50:03 -0400
From: "Harrick, Barbara" <b.harrick@ilslaunch.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] Newspaper as mulch
To: "nafex@lists.ibiblio.org" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID:
<C74C4276ED774E4DAD572FC96DF4CF0C0EA737F4@ILS-EX3.ilslaunch.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi all. This is what the Washington Post sent me re: using newspaper as
mulch. The first article is from Sun Chemical and the second is from West
Virginia Extension. Barbara zone 6b
Sun Chemical Corporation
631 Central Avenue
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
USA
Tel +1 201 933 4500
Fax +1 201 933 0261
www.sunchemical.com
NewsprintUsedasMulch-Compost.doc
Newsprint Used as Mulch and in Composts
This document is in response to your inquiry regarding the safe use of
newsprint as mulch or as compost.
The inks that we supply to newspapers meet all the standards of the Newspaper
Association of America (NAA). However, US Ink, a Division of Sun Chemical has
not tested the use of newspapers as mulch from either a safety or efficacy
standpoint. Accordingly, we did a limited literature search on this subject,
with the assistance of NAA and the National Association of Printing Ink
Manufacturers (NAPIM).
At the time of the original search, we were able to find only a small amount
of information directly relating to the use of newspapers as mulch or
compost. However there was considerable information about the use of
newspaper as cattle bedding. A more recent internet search has found that
there are now many more articles that can be found related to the use of
newsprint as mulch.
There is an article taken from the Internet prepared by the University of
Illinois, College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences,
Cooperative Extension Service (? 1995)1, which describes how to use the
newspapers as mulch. However, it does contain some inaccurate information
regarding the colored newsprint material. It is not true that lead and
cadmium compounds would be used in colored comics, colored newspaper pages,
or colored inserts. There may be a small possibility that glossy inserts, not
printed by the newspaper and not using US Ink products, may use some
lead-based pigments. There would no longer be any use of cadmium pigments.
There would be no use of lead or cadmium pigments in the colored ink used
either in the newspaper itself or in the comics.
There was also mention on the Internet, ("The Garden Patch", Paul Owen Davis,
4/15/97) of two commercial mulches made from newspapers, Bio-Mulch,
manufactured by a company in Dorsey, IL; and Garden GuardT, which is a mulch
sold by NIMBY, Inc. The latter was discussed on a webpage from the
Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection.
Also obtained from the Internet were the following articles on using
newspapers as mulch:
Mulching, (feature/backyard/mulching.html), United States Department of
Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service Mighty mulch has many
uses, The Sound Gardener column, 6/24/00, (Soundgardener.com) Are Mulches a
Good Idea?, D. O. Porter, Center for Agricultural & Natural Resources
Development, West Virginia State University Extension Service,
www.wvu.edu/~agexten.
Recycling Newspaper for Mulch in Home Gardens, West Virginia State University
Extension Service, www.wvu.edu/~exten Some related articles found on
newspaper use in composting are: The rest of the story on newspapers and
composting, Linden Staciokas, Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, and Organic Waste
Treatments, (FS19), ENFO, Ireland's information service on environmental
matters, www.enfo.ie/).
As mentioned above, there are other articles that discuss newsprint use with
livestock. These articles principally discuss the safety of using newspapers
as cattle bedding, and are considered relevant since they discuss the
potential (limited) for uptake of toxics into animal systems.
1 The article "Newspapers - Mulch" was published as part of the Horticulture
Solutions Series.
Sun Chemical Corporation
631 Central Avenue
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
USA
Tel +1 201 933 4500
Fax +1 201 933 0261
www.sunchemical.com
"A New Story for Old Newspapers", The Sunday Star Ledger, 11/3/93.
"The Safety of Newsprint Bedding", and "Myths About Using Newspaper Bedding
for Livestock", Ohio State University Fact Sheet
(http://ohioline.ag.ohio-state.edu)
"Newsprint as Animal Bedding", Pennsylvania Dept. of Environmental
Protection, Pennsylvania Homepage (Internet).
"Livestock Bedding: A New Market for Old News?" Department of Agricultural
and Biological Engineering, Cornell University.
"Assessing The Risks Of Using Recycled Newspapers As Animal Bedding",
Institute for Comparative & Environmental Toxicology, Cornell University.
A lengthy report by Penn State University (Pennsylvania Recycling Conference,
1989) concludes in part:
Analysis of newspaper, xerox [sic] copies, and computer printouts at Penn
State indicate that heavy metals and other trace elements of concern were
present at very low levels and well within safe limits, even if the bedding
were consumed by the animals. No apparent animal health problems or milk
quality problems were encountered in the Penn State bedding trials or even in
feeding studies when prepared newsprint was eaten at levels of 1.8 to 2.4 lb.
per head daily.
The use of newspapers for bedding should help provide necessary organic
matter in the soil when manures containing it are spread.
US Ink does not vouch for the accuracy or completeness of the information in
the articles mentioned above.
Lastly, I should point out that the actual amount of ink present in
newspapers is very low, perhaps, roughly 20 lbs. of ink per ton of paper
(1%). If you need any additional information, please contact us in the
Regulatory Department.
Thomas N. Donvito, Ph. D.
Manager, Regulatory Affairs
Printing Ink Operations, USA
NewsprintUsedasMulch-Compost.doc
Recycling Newspaper for Mulch in Home Gardens Managing MSW 8 Solid Waste West
Virginia University Extension Service When to Apply the Mulch Soil
temperature is the major factor to take into consideration as you decide when
to apply the mulch.
It should be applied after the soil temperature has reached a minimum of 73
degrees F. Newspaper mulch will lower the soil temperature slightly. Also,
the mulch acts as an insulating material, which does not allow the soil to
warm after it is applied. Most plants grow well if the soil temperature is
above 70 degrees F.
The second factor to consider is plant height. All plants should be at least
5 inches tall. This allows for easy application. Also, by the time plants are
5 inches tall, the soil should be fairly warm.
Fertilizer to Apply
Apply the fertilizer and lime recommended by a soil test, or apply 35 pounds
of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of area. Apply the fertilizer
before you mulch. Keep the fertilizer at least 2 inches away from the plants.
Apply before the final tilling if possible.
Weed Removal
Remove all weeds before applying the mulch.
Mulch is effective when it blocks the sun's rays from weeds and weed seeds.
If all weeds are removed, the mulch will prevent the germination of most
seeds.
During the summer, pull any weeds you see growing through the mulch.
Amount of Mulch to Apply
The amount of mulch applied is vital for weed control. Too little mulch will
allow sunlight to reach the soil and will allow weed seeds to germinate and
grow.
Apply the mulch to a depth of 4 to 5 inches. This requires 500 pounds of
shredded newspaper or 600 pounds of chopped newspaper per 1,000 square feet
of area. Do not worry about applying too much.
Check the mulch often and replace the newspaper in areas where its depth is
too shallow. Sometimes wind causes newspaper to move until the paper
stabilizes as a mulch.
West Virginia University extension faculty have done extensive research in
using old newspaper as a mulch in vegetable production. Shredded and chopped
newspaper was found to be the best forms of paper to use for mulch. Slick
pages of any paper product are not recommended because some inks in these
materials may still contain heavy metals. Most inks now used have organic
soybean oil or petroleum as a base. Recycling old newspapers into a mulch
material, rather than dumping it in landfills is an environmentally friendly
practice.
If the suggestions in this fact sheet are followed, newspaper mulch should
provide adequate weed control, improve plant growth, improve fruit
cleanliness, improve color and shape, increase yields, and help conserve soil
moisture.
Where Chopped and Shredded Newspaper
Can be Used as a Mulch
Use newspaper mulch on crops not being grown for early production. Newspaper
mulch will work well on any crop growing over 5 inches in height.
Sources of Chopped and Shredded
Newspaper Mulch
Chopped newspaper is available in small bales in Grant, Preston, and Randolph
counties and in large bales in Greenbrier County. Currently, shredded
newspaper is available only in Monongalia County.
Some county solid waste authorities are considering the processing and
marketing of chopped newspaper.
It is anticipated that the increased use of old newspapers for livestock
bedding and poultry litter will result in more newspaper processing
facilities being put into operation at recycling centers and landfills. These
facilities would have the capability of chopping or shredding and packaging
newspaper for various agricultural uses.
Various size small engine- or tractor PTO-driven paper chopper/mulchers are
available. But it seems more practical for home gardeners to buy chopped or
shredded packaged newspaper mulch.
Future Seasons
At present, recommendations follow two approaches.
One method is to till or disk the mulch
under in the fall to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Plant annual rye as a cover
crop. This allows the mulch to decay during the winter.
The second method is not to disturb the mulch.
Early the next spring, move the mulch back 12 inches per row to allow room
for planting and for the soil temperature to rise to the desired level. Once
the plants are at the desired height and the soil temperature is adequate,
apply the correct amount of mulch to have 4 or 5 inches around the plants.
Advantages of Using Newspaper Mulch
. Controls weeds
. Keeps fruit cleaner
. Improves color
. Adds organic matter
. Provides good yields
. Utilizes a recyclable material
. Retains moisture
. Provides cooler soils for desired crops . Is biodegradable Disease Control
Some results show that there will be fewer disease problems with the use of
mulch. The splashing effect of rain drops, which may carry disease organisms
onto the plants, is eliminated. However, you must control diseases by
preventive sprays. Use only approved fungicides on a strict schedule.
Insect Control
Check your vegetables regularly for insect problems.
Use approved insecticides only when the
insects are present in large enough numbers to cause problems. Read the label
and apply only at the recommended rate according to current label directions.
Recycling
Extension encourages recycling old newspaper and other materials for
alternative uses rather than dumping them in landfills.
Programs and activities offered by the West Virginia University Extension
Service are available to all persons without regard to race, color, sex,
disability, religion, age, veteran status, sexual orientation or national
origin.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June
30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Charles
Morris, Interim Director, Cooperative Extension Service, West Virginia
University.
!
Environmental
Management
Education
EME
Extension Paper Mulch Study Group
John Baniecki, Tom Basden, Mary Beth Bennett, Steve Bonanno, Ed Collins, Dave
Davis, Ron Helmondollar, Edgar Hooper, Peter Jensen, John Jett, Mike Kubina,
John McCutcheon, Dale Monks, Suzanne Poland, Juanita Popenoe, Edsel Redden,
Ancil Schmidt, John Scott Jr., Howard Scott, Art Selders, Ed Smolder, Rodney
Wallbrown, Craig Yohn.
This publication resulted from research partially funded by the following:
County Solid Waste Authorities in Mason, Mercer, Pleasants, Putnam, Taylor,
and Wood counties; Governor's Office; W. Va.
Department of Agriculture; Division of Natural Resources; Development Office
- Energy Efficiency Program; Mountain Resource Conservation & Development
Area; Document Management Services; W. Va. Press Association. 4/95
Barbara Harrick
Senior Technical Editor/Writer
International Launch Services
1875 Explorer Street, Suite 700
Reston, VA 20190
office (571) 633-7430
fax (571) 633-7536
DISCLAIMER
This electronic message transmission contains information which may be
confidential or proprietary information belonging to ILS International Launch
Services, Inc.? If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or the information
contained herein is prohibited.? If you have received this communication in
error, please notify the original transmitter immediately by phone or by
e-mail and delete the original message and any copies that may have been made
of it.
------------------------------
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End of nafex Digest, Vol 74, Issue 74
*************************************
-
[NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees,
Scott Breneman, 03/23/2009
- Re: [NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees, Kevin Moore, 03/23/2009
- Re: [NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees, Mark Angermayer, 03/23/2009
-
Message not available
-
Re: [NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees,
Lucky Pittman, 03/23/2009
-
Re: [NAFEX] grass under pecan trees,
Ginda Fisher, 03/23/2009
-
[NAFEX] Seeking Lawrence London,
NAFEX, 03/23/2009
- Re: [NAFEX] Seeking Lawrence London, Doreen Howard, 03/23/2009
-
Re: [NAFEX] grass under pecan trees,
Kevin Moore, 03/24/2009
-
[NAFEX] daffodils around trees,
Melissa Kacalanos, 03/24/2009
- Re: [NAFEX] daffodils around trees, Ginda Fisher, 03/25/2009
- Re: [NAFEX] daffodils around trees, Kevin Moore, 03/25/2009
-
[NAFEX] daffodils around trees,
Melissa Kacalanos, 03/24/2009
-
[NAFEX] Seeking Lawrence London,
NAFEX, 03/23/2009
-
Re: [NAFEX] grass under pecan trees,
Ginda Fisher, 03/23/2009
-
Re: [NAFEX] persimmon transplanting? grass under pecan trees,
Lucky Pittman, 03/23/2009
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