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  • From: Chris Calloway <ifoufo AT yahoo.com>
  • To: RTP-area local music and culture <ch-scene AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: eGullet founder/author dines at Federal
  • Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 14:44:38 -0700 (PDT)

--- Chris Rossi <nospam AT spacelabstudio.com> wrote:
> When was 15% declared not enough exactly?

Never.

I know a search of the archives would turn up that
this is one of the most over talked about topics on
amch. And last I checked years ago, those fruitcakes
on tri.dining *never* stop talking about it. But
anyway, to flog a dead horse, I need to rant...

In the late 70s/early 80s there was a rumor campaign
by more aggressive service workers to suggest that 15%
was not enough, given the state of wage exemptions and
new tax laws, and that 20% was more appropriate. This
has taken hold in the popular consciousness over the
years as more people have actually worked as service
workers. Like Lisa implied, doing the job promotes
empathy for the job. But older people have resisted
this trend. Depending on how old you are, and how
recently your parents have influenced your ideas about
tipping, your conception of what constitutes
reasonable tipping may be somewhat predictable. There
were previous times in this country where 10% was the
norm. It might be interesting to excavate the means by
which tipping has changed over the decades. Or not.
But there is no tipping authority and what people
think about tipping is more a function of their
experience and feelings of self-worth than any cut and
dried necessity. Anyone who claims otherwise is
smoking crack.

I have always taken tipping to mean that sorry service
gets 15% and all other service gets 20%, with a
minumum of a $2 tip (for tabs less than $10), as I
started being responsible for tipping right as more
people were *asserting* that 20% was appropriate after
having grown up in the times when 15% was the most
anybody should *ever* have tipped. If service workers
were going to bitch and moan that 15% wasn't enough, I
took their word for it and began my tipping career at
20%. However, my bucks will stop there. 20% is the end
of the road for me and the only time I ever go more is
to round off to an even amount that suits me or reward
something out of this world great. If service workers,
and I have been one numerous times, want to launch
another campaign that 20% isn't enough and that it
should be 25%, well then, they can try. But I'm not
biting. %25 is reserved for those special occasions
where through no fault of my own I've been made to
feel like a some kind of prince, and in no way should
ever be expected. 25% should only be delivered in
those instances where it can be sure not to be
construed as trying too hard to make an impression,
like you're trying to be some bigshot asshole throwing
money around for effect. Even then, it's a judgment
call.

Here's an open secret: when you tip fully, you feel
better about yourself. Poor tippers, people who cheat
on their taxes, and Republicans are probably miserable
on the inside. Good tipping promotes prosperity and a
better world. It's worth the "extra" 5%.

And this is somewhat supported by the service
industry, also, as I continue to see "tip guides"
(those tables somtimes printed on the backs of bills
that show dollar amount of bill on one axis and tip
percentage on another axis) where the tip columns are
15, 17, 18, and 20 percents. On occasion I have also
seen printed on the bill what 18% of the bill would be
(never 15 or 20%, though). 18% seems to be the amount
charged for parties of six or more (which never fails
to elicit the response around the table that "she
would have gotten more if the tip hadn't already been
added in;" at least in the company I keep.)

So, fish pants or not, Mr. eGullet is not the total
asshole he's being painted to be. Maybe he's not the
nicest guy in the universe for letting the world know
he's spent $1500 on dinner at least twice. But he's
only about 1% off what restaurants seem to expect
themselves fro tips. And he apparently has good taste,
realizing quickly that The Federal is a pretty rare
and special place. It's definitely an order of
magnitude above any other place in town, "divey" or
not. I tend to think of The Federal as eminently
comfortable and easy on the eyes and ears rather than
divey. Also, whether Abby or anybody else, I've never
had anything but fantastically great and friendly
service at The Federal, even from the neophyte
first-day on the job servers. I'm at the point where I
just don't see the need to go anywhere else but The
Federal if I can get there before the kitchen closes
and my financial goal in life is to get to the point
of making enough money again where I can eat there
every day. The Federal just excels in every category:
food, atmosphere, value, and service. And excels in
those categories to a degree and at a consistency that
just seems a little surreal. Really, there seems to be
some magic pixie dust scattered over the place. They
do a superhuman job.

And I really want that Ranier Beer sign for myself.
Whoa, is it just too cool or what? And if I had it for
myself, I'd hang it in The Federal, right where it is
now, because that's where it belongs and looks best.

I also always calculate on the after tax amount just
to avoid the squabble. If I get comps or discounts, I
calculate on the amount it would have been without the
freebies. This is a point of etiquette, the point of
etiquette being to make other people feel comfortable,
not create constroversies. So err on the side of
generosity if there is a question. 20% of the full
stated amount.

I also never tip for counter or buffet service, even
if someone brings me my food or tops off my drink
after I've gone gone through a line. In some instances
of serve yourself, I will leave a *small* tip ($1) if
it is obvious that the token tea filling service has
been significant in some way. But I'm not leaving a
tip at the K&W, sorry. I carry my own tray, and seldom
have I not had to get up to go find the tea pitcher
myself. When I get old and arthritic and someone has
to carry my cafeteria tray, then I may think about it.
But I'm not leaving tips in the tip jar at any order
window. If the workers at self-serve joints are not
getting a full wage, they need to take that up with
labor authorities (and this is something underpaid
workers need to be encouraged to do more, not
'incented' away from). My rule is, I need to sit down
and have someone come take my order before getting
into tip mode. If I have to perform the order delivery
service, well then, tip me damintol for working in
your restaurant rather than someone else. To me, the
whole idea of ordering at a window and then having
someone deliver a tray is just a racket of wanting it
both ways: self-service while sticking a hand out for
tips. I'm not biting. Decide whether your
establishment is self-service or full-service. But
half-assed service is just confusing and dumb. It's
unreasonable to expect people to make a living from
collecting quarters for carrying around a pitcher of
tea.

I have found that the European service charge model
works better in some places that others. In the places
where it is observed the strongest, I have found that
it works the weakest. That is, places where tipping is
considered a fat ugly American tourist insult seem to
deliver the most lackadaisical service. Places where
service charges still exist, but tips are also
appreciated or accepted, seem to be really on the
ball. So my impression is, the American system seems
to work out better for the customer in getting
service, but maybe not so well for the service worker
in getting paid in more affordable restaurants.
Service workers in high end American restaurants
probably make more than I do. However, I have been
told by some European service workers that the service
charge is never seen by the service worker anyway,
that it just goes straight to the house. It's just
that in places outside of America, service workers get
paid a full wage instead of being exempted from wage
standards.

I'm find the European model also increasingly more
confusing as Europe is more and more balkanized into
places where tipping is more acceptable than not.
After a few recent experiences, it became obvious to
me that tipping hotel workers in central Europe is
becoming expected, even though the tourist guides say
otherwise. I'm used to leaving 2% of room charge for
house keepers or $5 to $10 for bellmen helping with
bags in the U.S. depending on how swanky the place is,
how much luggage I'm hauling, and whether the ice is
kept in a secret place or down the hall.

But I'm not really sure yet how or where this is
becoming the norm in Europe. It seems to me that the
closer you are to Great Britain, the more tipping is
inappropriate or even rude. However, if you are an
American in Europe, and the concierge looks at you
uncomfortably funny while shaking your hand on your
way out the door after having given you good advice
all week, you can always soothe your conscience by
telling yourself that after all, you are an American,
and thereby *expected* to to be an ignorant jackass. I
mean, if they're going to change the rules in the
middle of the game, it's going to take me awhile to
catch up and figure it out if I have to do so by
osmosis. You know, put up big signs or something that
say, "Hey, Americans, we've abandoned wage standards
ourselves now, too!" I'll understand. Just don't make
me guess. It's really uncomfortable. And I don't mind
coming off like an ignorant jackass when I'm
uncomfortable. It's not my fault.

It has *always* been appropriate to tip European tour
bus drivers and guides either 10% (split) or 2 Euro
minimum (split, also), however, if the trip was
pleasant, even in Great Britain. Magical mystery tours
are awesome, anyway, and totally the way to go. They
also take care of all your tipping at destination
stops for you, so you never have to guess. That's
really pleasant. I hate guessing. Also, no tip
necessary for regular non-tour buses or train porters
in Europe. A flat $5 for any airport porter in the
U.S.. A flat $2 for any parking shuttle drivers in the
U.S.. Bellmen rates for any hotel shuttle operators in
the U.S..

Taxi drivers, 5% or 2 Euro minimum, everywhere, even
in Great Britain. Being more generous with cab drivers
for good service is OK because they get stiffed a lot.
Also, you can visibly see a cab driver's attitude
improve for the rest of the day when they get a good
tip.

Definitely tip the pizza delivery guy 20% or more
always. That job sucks like no other. Pizza delivery
is dangerous and people are assholes to pizza delivery
guys all day long. They are usually driving their own
already fucked up little car and are not getting
enough mileage money for all the wear and tear and gas
and getting towed for being in no-parking zones. Plus,
you gotta be really down on your luck to deliver
pizzas. They can bring me cold pizza or the wrong
pizza or pizza a half hour late and I should cut them
at least some slack. It comes with the territory cuz
delivering pizzas sucks and isn't the province of the
most capable.

Always tip fully to everybody when on business travel
*and claim it* on your expense forms. Think of it as
your own personal form of socialism. You take from the
bosses and give to the working man. Your boss is just
gonna take it off on his taxes, anyway.

Disagree amongst yourselves. I don't care. I feel
pretty damn confident about my tipping ethics.

3





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