permaculture

["scrooge McDuck" <declan@planetmail.net>]

Again thank you. This is essential knowledge to cut through the B.S. that can get accidentally swallowed if you're not in the know.
--
Declan Moriarty
Sent from my Android tablet with mail.com Mail. Location Dublin Ireland..

On 27/07/2016, 19:31 scott@permaculture.org wrote:

See comments below:

Scott Pittman

> -------Original Message-------
> From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
> To: permaculture <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [permaculture] Earthships
> Sent: Jul 26 '16 16:06
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > My take on this is:
> >
> > build small, exactly what space you must have
> > use extremely durable materials
> > use easy or no maintenance materials
> > use super insulation for year round comfort
> > use thermal heat storage in winter (the floor and walls (interior) that
> > serve to keep living space cool in summer combined with appropriate roof
> > overhangs
> >
> > this really works
> > I can provide details on materials and building techniques if anyone is
> > interested; will post to the list.
> >
>
> Bona fide permaculture survival nuts and bolts dwelling design and
> construction.
>
> 1)
> Build on high ground well drained and substrate compacted

I would just say build above the flood plain, as oftentimes being on high ground subjects one to wind and wind related disasters.>

2)
> Pour monolithic slab on grade (slab and footings one piece)

**Concrete is one of the greatest contributors to green house gasses and therefore global warming, soil cement floors lessens our environmental footprint

> 3)
> Lay up exterior walls with heavy concrere blocks with door and window
> openings

**See comments on item 2

> 4)
> Glue rigid foam insulation panels to interior surface of wall, 8" worth
> minimum, preferably 10" or 12"

**Rigid foam is a petroleum product and many forms out-gas toxic gasses as well and contribute to greenhouse gasses. Strawbale (where climatically appropriate) is cheaper and is a super insulator, or one can use recycled paper prepped with borax to prevent combustion and insects.

> 5)
> lay up interior heavy concrete block wall to finish cavity wall with cavity
> insulation

**See comment on item 2 & 3

> OR skip 4) and spray heavy duty waterproof foam insulation into wall cavity
> after laying up interior wall

**See comment on Item 4

> 6)
> glue 6-8" rigid foam insulation to floor, between rows of bricks or blocks
> to support slab to be poured over insulation for final finished concrere
> floor

**One only need insulate the footing to below the frost line and then insulate four feet outside perimeter of slab otherwise one loses the slab earth interface as a heat sink for storage.


> 7) pour finish floor - use 6000 psi indoor concrete without fiber(glass)
> and finish to a glasslike finish - do what is necessary to prvent slab
> cracking - this usually means sawing grooves in the slab.

**See comment on item 2, It is also easier to put in the expansion joints before pouring rather than cutting grooves in the finished slab.


> 8)
> For a wooden floor simply glue pressure treated lumber to slab and nail
> plywood subflooring to that. I would recommend spraying foam insulation
> between the pressure treated lumber strips (1 1/2" gap) attached to
> concrete floor, under the subflooring. I would spray foam then immediately
> attach the subflooring so it can become glued to the wet insulation and
> harden in place creating great floor structural rigidity. Then nail final
> flooring down.

**Whenever possible eliminate using forest products in construction. The wood is much better used as a carbon sink.

> 9) Finish framing the structure.

**See comment on item 8>

10) Insulate stud space wherever there are stud walls, if any, with spray
> foam insulation, the heavy duty waterproof kind. Finish roof framing and
> insulate the rafters the same way. Use plywood for ceiling then cover with
> panelling of choice.

**Much cheaper and environmentally conscious to use recycled paper sprayed into to cavity space.

> 11) Roof structure with galvanized, prepainted 26 gauge (minimum) metal
> roofing available anywhere.

If galvanized needn't be painted, the zinc surface is a good reflector of heat during the summer months.


> 12) Go minimalist an super mega hyper insulation. Concrere interior and
> exterior walls, inexpensive, lifetime, zero maintenance, fireproof,
> rotproof, attractive
> no paint needed. Go for architectural overruns from concrete block
> manufacturer/distributor; they always have them for way less than half full
> retail or less.

**Aside from comments above on the huge contribution that concrete makes to global warming. Hassan Fathy, Egyptian architect who wrote "Architecture for the Poor" stated that concrete walls emit a piezoelectric field that is harmful to humans, particularly to children.
>
> I can provide even more detail regarding construction and materials.

**Me too...
> --
> Lawrence F. London
> lfljvenaura@gmail.com
> https://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared
> https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/116100117925365792988/+Avantgeared/posts
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