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  • From: list@ginda.us
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] apple grafting
  • Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 17:47:39 -0400

Thanks, everyone, for the responses.  I used a slightly different technique, following the pictures in "the Grafters Handbook" I left a long tag at the top of the bud as a handle, then cut it flush to the top of the "t" after placing the bud under the flap of bark.  I also left a little bit of the leaf - should I cut that off?  (The drawings in the book showed no leaf at all, but the stick I took had leaves.)

I smeared grafting compound over everything, but looking at your photo, perhaps you just use the rubber, with no other protection?  I had no luck with that for spring grafting, but the "live" parts of a bud graft are much better protected.

(I'll be doing another tree next weekend, weather permitting, so still actively interested in comments.)

best,
Ginda 

On Aug 7, 2006, at 4:21 PM, Bob Hartman wrote: 

I always use buds from the current years growth.  Yes, the buds are dormant but they developed this spring and summer.  I always use the petiole (or leaf stem) as a handle to put the bud in place.

I am attaching a picture.  Left hand side is the budstick.  Right hand side is an example of putting the bud in place.  The lowest cut is just the T in the sample host, the middle is the bud put in place, and the top is after the tie with the budding strip.  You would normally only put one per host limb but I have put three just to show the process.

The sample happens to be cherry but apple is the same.

Bob Hartman
Western Washington

John Henderson wrote:
August is the right time for T-bud grafting, but you need to have done some advance planning back last winter, since I've always been advised that budsticks (source of scion buds) must be dormant.

John Henderson
Sage Hen Farm
Lodi, NY
From    : list@ginda.us[mailto:list@ginda.us]
      
Sent    : 8/4/2006 10:48:01 PM
To      : nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Cc      :
Subject : RE: [NAFEX] apple grafting

 I would like to graft an apple tree either this weekend or next.
What methods work at this time of year?  Chip budding?  Do I have to
wait until spring?  How much/when should I cut back the stock?  The
stock has been in the ground a little more than a year, now.

Ginda,
I'd do a T-bud placment - just my preference.  Never have been able  
to get the hang of chip-budding.

I did a few apples & crabs last week, and have been doing some  
redbuds(Alba & Forest Pansy) this weekend.

Took a quick look at some of the 'whitebud' T-bud  placements I did  
a week or so back, and they look good, but I probably won't force  
them until next spring.

Lucky

    
Just did my first ever t-bud grafts.  Mechanically, they look nice  
and I feel optimistic about them.  I assume the goal is for the bud  
to "grow into" the tree this fall, and sprout next spring.  Should I  
cut back most of the rest of the tree next spring, or wait until  
after stuff sprouts?

Ginda

  


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