North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[list@ginda.us]

So I went out today (back from vacation) to see how my grafts are  
doing.  At first, I thought a bird must have ripped out the buds, as  
there was a neat little rip in the parafilm just where I had inserted  
each graft.  On closer examination, the buds were still there, and  
looks fat and healthy.  The leaf-stems have dropped off, and the bark  
that I wrapped shut with parafilm separated enough to rip the  
parafilm.  It looks like the rip happened as the stem swelled with  
healing - that is, it looks like the area around the cut has callused  
and grown a bit, which I take to be a good sign.

The grafts of Karmijn onto Ashmead didn't look as good as the grafts  
of Ashmead onto Golden Russet.  Two of the Karmijn grafts were my  
first two, with grafting rubbers and grafting compound (a waxy goo)  
and leaving too much leaf, so perhaps the remaining leaf let them  
dessicate, or the grafting compound somehow got into the wound and  
caused problems or whatever.  Or maybe the Ashmead was closer to  
dormant - the bark wasn't as slippery as the Golden Russet bark.   
Maybe some of both, as the third (parafilm, tiny bit of leaf on stem)  
graft I did onto Ashmead looks better than the first two, but not as  
healthy as the ones on the other tree.  I desperately want the  
Karmijn to "take" since I have very limited wood of that cultivar (a  
smallish branch grafted to a too-shaded spot on a native crab) and  
plenty of Ashmead (I have purchased two trees, and have a huge,  
vigorous branch growing off an old graft on the same crab.)  Oh well,  
time to wait and see.  Gardening teaches patience.  :)

Ginda

On Aug 12, 2006, at 9:20 PM, list@ginda.us wrote:

> How long does it generally take for the leaf stem to fall off if the
> graft takes?
>
> I did some more bud grafts today using parafilm.  Perfect material
> for the job!  (And lots of fun to play with.)  I sort of like bud
> grafting.  I'm excited to see how many buds take and how well they  
> grow.
>
> Ginda
>
>
> On Aug 8, 2006, at 6:55 AM, loneroc wrote:
>
> > Greetings,
> >
> > You want to remove all of the leaf blade but leave some of the
> > petiole.  It
> > serves as a "handle" while manipulating the bud.  If the petiole
> > abscises
> > (falls off) you likely have a take.  If it shrivels and remains
> > attached you
> > probably don't.
> >
> > Steve Herje
> > Lone Rock, WI
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Hartman" <hartmansfruittrees@wport.com>
> > To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 11:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: [NAFEX] apple grafting
> >
> >
> > > Ginda,
> > >
> > > If I understand you right, the leaf part was still attached to the
> > > petiole.  If that is correct the leaf should be removed because it
> > > will
> > > cause the budded part to transpire and you don't want it to lose
> > > moisture.  Of course if the leaf part is very small it may not
> > > have an
> > > effect on it.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > list@ginda.us wrote:
> > >
> > > > I also left a little bit of the leaf - should I cut that off?  (The
> > > > drawings in the book showed no leaf at all, but the stick I took  
> > > > had
> > > > leaves.)
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