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  • From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Any opinions on my grafting problem?
  • Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 20:56:49 -0700

Cut the stock off. It should have leafed out and be growing actively. Lift the edge of the bark just enough to get the scion in under the bark and push it down with the long cut of the wedge against the wood. The bark will split slightly, but that won't hurt. You will get a much tighter fit this way. Wrap the stump with masking tape, surveyor's tape, electrical tape, or whatever else. Coat all cut surfaces liberally with Doc Farwell's grafting compound. Wait for the grafts to grow.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers Association "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
On May 4, 2005, at 8:40 PM, John Smith wrote:

Lon, Lucky, et al.,

To make sure I'm visualizing this right, when you do
these bark grafts after cutting the wedge at the base
of the scionwood, I assume you make a couple verticle
cuts through the bark in the rootstock and pull it
away in the underlying wood separating the layers like
you would to do budding, to create a flap, then shove
the scionwood in there and wrap tightly?

Thanks for the input.

--- "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com> wrote:

I've always had the best results with peaches and
plums when I potted
the rootstock and held it in the greenhouse. When
it had leafed out
and was growing, I cut it off and bark grafted the
scions (cut them to
a wedge and the bottom and pushed that under the
bark). That method
gave essentially 100% success where whip and tongue
was nearly a flop.
I recently used the bark graft to topwork a large
apple tree and all
six grafts have begun to grow.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape
Grower, at
http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden
Writers Association
"Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
On May 3, 2005, at 8:53 PM, John Smith wrote:

This year I moved several hundred miles and brought
along several pear, apple, and peach seedlings and
dwarfing rootstocks I had growing in my garden and
stored in a cooler bare-root over the past winter.
This spring, I pulled them out for a couple days,
placing them in a box of moist vermiculite until
they
began to break dormancy. I grafted about 10 of each
fruit type, mostly using a cleft graft,
whip-and-tongue on a few. A few scions I placed in
a
glass of water while preparing the rootstock, mostly
I
just worked quick so the scion wouldn't dry out.
Used
a cloth grafting tape, wrapped very tightly, since
scionwood was thinner than the rootstock in every
case, just matched up the cambium on one side. I
coated the graft site and the scion (except buds)
with
wax from a toilet bowl gasket. I then carefully
buried the whole thing in the mosit vermiculite and
held at about 70 degrees for 2 weeks, then planted
in
my new garden. After a few weeks, it looks like
100%
of the pears have taken, some have a couple inches
growth already. Looks like about 90% on the apples,
and 0% on the peaches. I know peaches are supposed
to
be more difficult, anyone have any ideas on what i
could do differently next time? Looks like I may
need
to stick to summer budding on those, but it's harder
to get good fresh bud wood at that time...
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