North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[John Smith <friendly27sw@yahoo.com>]

Lon, Lucky, et al.,

To make sure I'm visualizing this right, when you do
these bark grafts after cutting the wedge at the base
of the scionwood, I assume you make a couple verticle
cuts through the bark in the rootstock and pull it
away in the underlying wood separating the layers like
you would to do budding, to create a flap, then shove
the scionwood in there and wrap tightly?

Thanks for the input. 

--- "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com> wrote:

> I've always had the best results with peaches and
> plums when I potted 
> the rootstock and held it in the greenhouse.  When
> it had leafed out 
> and was growing, I cut it off and bark grafted the
> scions (cut them to 
> a wedge and the bottom and pushed that under the
> bark).  That method 
> gave essentially 100% success where whip and tongue
> was nearly a flop.
> I recently used the bark graft to topwork a large
> apple tree and all 
> six grafts have begun to grow.
> -Lon Rombough
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape
> Grower, at 
> http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden
> Writers Association 
> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> On May 3, 2005, at 8:53 PM, John Smith wrote:
> 
> This year I moved several hundred miles and brought
> along several pear, apple, and peach seedlings and
> dwarfing rootstocks I had growing in my garden and
> stored in a cooler bare-root over the past winter.
> This spring, I pulled them out for a couple days,
> placing them in a box of moist vermiculite until
> they
> began to break dormancy.  I grafted about 10 of each
> fruit type, mostly using a cleft graft,
> whip-and-tongue on a few.  A few scions I placed in
> a
> glass of water while preparing the rootstock, mostly
> I
> just worked quick so the scion wouldn't dry out. 
> Used
> a cloth grafting tape, wrapped very tightly, since
> scionwood was thinner than the rootstock in every
> case, just matched up the cambium on one side.  I
> coated the graft site and the scion (except buds)
> with
> wax from a toilet bowl gasket.  I then carefully
> buried the whole thing in the mosit vermiculite and
> held at about 70 degrees for 2 weeks, then planted
> in
> my new garden.  After a few weeks, it looks like
> 100%
> of the pears have taken, some have a couple inches
> growth already.  Looks like about 90% on the apples,
> and 0% on the peaches. I know peaches are supposed
> to
> be more difficult, anyone have any ideas on what i
> could do differently next time?  Looks like I may
> need
> to stick to summer budding on those, but it's harder
> to get good fresh bud wood at that time...
> > _______________________________________________
> nafex mailing list 
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> 
> **YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED TO POST!**
> All other messages are discarded.
> No exceptions.  
> ----
> To subscribe or unsubscribe, go to the bottom of
> this page (also can be used to change other email
> options):
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> 
> File attachments are NOT stripped by this list
> TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF FROM COMPUTER
> VIRUSES!
> Please do not send binary files.
> Use plain text ONLY in emails!
> 
> Message archives are here:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
> 
> NAFEX web site:   http://www.nafex.org/
> 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com