North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[jhecksel@voyager.net]

> I'm years late, but at last I am working toward a much needed wind
break on
> the north west side of our orchard ....(to deflect the winter
nor'westers
> that Bernie and Dean send this way - after their done with 'em).

Better late than never.

>
> Most of the literature I have seen on wind breaks seems to focus on
> deciduous bushes.....but I need the wind break in winter.
> I suppose a 10' thick row of caragana might work?
> It would be nice for the windbreak  to produce something to eat as
well.
> Dream on?

I think there is much snake-oil in the literature regarding wind-
breaks.  Or, more precisely, advice that is quoted and re-quoted with
a loss of context.  For example:  I have seen the following advice in
several places "50%-to-60% permeability is optimum." with nary a word
on how to measure of design for % permeability.  I think the picture
in their head was the swirling and localized drifting associated with
solid walls.

Regarding deciduous plants:  Many, thin twigs give a wide range of
performance.  Thin twigs correlate with small leaves.  Gray dogwood,
Siberian elm, American beech, willows, American plums, Hawthornes tend
toward densely arranged, thin twigs.  Plums are nice because because
they sucker.  Sugar maple is also pretty good, more from the density
aspect and less for the thinness of the twigs.  Twig density can be
increased by shearing.  Plants with compound leaves (sumac, walnut)
tend to have coarse twigs and are usually less desirable for
windbreaks.

> Another thought is a fast growing evergreen, and  one that won't get
over 15
> feet tall.
> What do other northerners do ?
>
> I ordered a batch of white cedar to plant out for conservation
plantings, I
> was wondering if I planted some of them what their growth might be
like if I
> pruned them to a single leader....rather then the bush they start
as.  Have
> got endless spruce seedlings to transplant from our woods also , but
no idea
> how to control the eventual size.

Consider abandoning the launch-and-forget approach.  I don't know if
you have the real-estate, but having three rows of spruce at different
ages could be an option.  Just harvest the oldest row of spruce when
they start to start to infringe on the neighboring row(s) and replant.
Planting 6'x15' (2m x 5m) would probably put you on a 6-to-10year
rotation.  That is, you would be harvesting a row every 6 to 10 years.

> Is it good, or unadvisable, to heavily prune evergreens when
transplanting?

Pine trees, bad idea as relatively few buds that are not terminal
buds.  Spruce trees, OK (many more buds along length of twigs.)  White
cedar, no problem.

>
> Thanks, Del  Z2/3
>
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