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  • From: "Frank Fries" <frank.fries AT imagewireless.ca>
  • To: <homestead AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Homestead] Car problem
  • Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 19:23:42 -0600

There will be a number of interlocks, as you suggested.

I have seen automatics not be able to sense that they were in park. Easy to check - turn the key, take it out of park, put it back in, try and start. If it doesn't turn over, try and wiggle it while staying in park and turning the key to the start position. Costs nothing to try.

Given that you seem to be getting absolutely nothing (doesn't even groan - starter doesn't even attempt to turn the engine) it sounds like NO power getting to starter.

If not an interlock, I would suspect either the ignition switch or the solenoid. The key turns an actual on/off switch inside the lock, just like turning a light switch off and on. The ignition switch sends a low power current to the solenoid. The solenoid is really an electrically operated switch that handles the much higher power flow between the battery and the starter. Of the two, I would be more suspicious of the solenoid. I also know how to tell if the solenoid is the problem.

The solenoid is a small cylinder shaped device in the line (battery cable) between the battery and the starter. This will be on the positive cable. The other battery cable will go to ground someone on the frame of the car or the engine (usually the engine) The solenoid is usually attached to the fender wall fairly close to the battery (usually with 2 - 2 1/2 feet). It will have 2 short brass or copper bolts (terminals) with brass or copper nuts attaching a battery cable to either side of the solenoid. It will also have at least one light (thin) wire attached to it (coming from the ignition switch).

If you have a 12 volt circuit tester (looks like a screwdriver with a light bulb in the handle and a wire attached), the side farther from the battery should become live (hot) when the key is turned to the crank position (you try and start the car with the key). This is where the cable is attached that goes to the starter.

The other way of checking if it is the solenoid is to:
- make sure the car is not in gear if it is a standard, park for an automatic
- keep hands and everything else away from the fan, fanbelt and any moving parts
-turn the key on
-hook a booster cable (also sometimes called jumper cables) to the positive post on the battery
- touch the other end of the same booster cable to the terminal on the far side of the solenoid (side farthest away from the battery, with the cable going down to the starter, which is generally kind of under the engine, sort of low down on one side)
- beware that this is the equivalent of turning the key to the "crank" position and potentially the engine could turn over and start.

Frank



----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Wigglesworth" <lynnw1366 AT hotmail.com>
To: <homestead AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 3:56 PM
Subject: [Homestead] Car problem


My mother's car is a 1993 Ford Tempo. It won't start, but I think the
problem is the brake. The key turns in the ignition, the dashboard lights
light (all of them), but it doesn't make a sound. It's NOT the battery...I
KNOW what a dead battery sounds like. That car has all kinds of interlocks
with the brake and the shift (it's an automatic) and the brake and the
ignition. You need to depress the brake to do anything, like start the car
or shift out of Park. If the brake doesn't work, nothing works.

The problem is that the brake pedal won't go down at all. I know absolutely
nothing about cars, but I suspect something in the brake mechanism
(linkage?) is jammed. I couldn't find a tow truck to get it to the mechanic
before they closed at 2, so I have to wait until Monday. Can they even tow
it if it's stuck in Park? I thought it would be nice if I could fix it
before then and save some money and annoyance.Any suggestions for a
mechanically-challenged person (that doesn't involve disassembling the car)?

Lynn Wigglesworth
Tioga Co. PA

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