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  • From: Don Bowen <don.bowen AT earthlink.net>
  • To: homestead AT lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: Re: [Homestead] used tractors
  • Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 14:45:19 -0700

At 9/14/2006, you wrote:
I'm considering buying a Ford 8N that is available for
$1500.

Not a bad price for a decent 8N. Almost all the parts are available, in fact there is a company that totally rebuilds the 9N/2N/8N/NAN tractors. I think it is N-Complete or something like that. Its down sides are no live PTO as mentioned, a very weak front end even though you can find a front end loader for one, low power, and low pressure hydraulics with no down pressure.

The Ferguson TO20 and TO30 are almost the same thing with a bit more power.

My brother, who has farmed a bit all his life,
points out to me that among other things it doesn't
have a live PTO.


Don Bowen Awl Knotted Up KI6DIU
http://www.braingarage.com
My travel journal
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

I am omnivagant.
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At 9/14/2006, you wrote:
Of the cheaper, foreign made tractors, which ones should I avoid and why?
Will the MF and the 1960's International tractors you recommend allow a
front end loader?

Look for a beefy front end and you can use a loader.



Don Bowen Awl Knotted Up KI6DIU
http://www.braingarage.com
My travel journal
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

I am omnivagant.
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At 9/14/2006, you wrote:
> Since I am deciding what tractor to buy. I would be interested in
> suggestions about what to look for, what questions to ask, what
> perameters for my search (is that an impressive phrase or what?...L)

The University of Nebraska has been testing farm tractors since 1921. The tests are comprehensive showing pull in several gears, fuel consumption, etc. CH Wendel published a book with all the tractor tests up to the early 90s. I have a copy but it is deep in storage. You can also order test reports from http://tractortestlab.unl.edu/. and more about the tests is here: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/farmmgt/05007.html. Maybe the library will have a copy of the book.



Don Bowen Awl Knotted Up KI6DIU
http://www.braingarage.com
My travel journal
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html

I am omnivagant.
From Clansgian AT wmconnect.com Fri Sep 15 22:26:36 2006
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Subject: Re: [Homestead] Scythes - was DR Walk-behind Bush hog
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How long do you have to practice sharpening the scythe
in order to keep it sharp enough to work like that?

A bit.

There are two types of scythe blades available:

1. Hardened steel that is sharpened by grinding or with a file. These are the cheaper blades.

2. Damasked steel which is a soft steel hammered onto very thin sheets of harder steel. The steel is still maleable so you peen the edge (flatten and stretch) then put an edge on the thinned steel with a stone. After that you hone the edge with a stone. As you use the blade the very thin edge curls under a bit and the purpose of the stone is not to wear away the steel to an edge but rather to strop the edge to flatten the burr, the curl, that forms. A blade for grass is thinner and sharper than one for weeds and brush. These blades are more expensive.

It takes a while, but the steel is a good teacher. If the blade is not properly sharpened, there is a definate drag on the snath and the blade will catch on all and sundry. No fun at all and it sends you back to the anvil (or peening jig) in a hurry.

I highly recommend "The Scythe Book" by David Tresemer ISBN 0-911469-19-2




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