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  • From: Sarah Kehler Ewing <skkewing@yahoo.com>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Putting on grafting workshops
  • Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 06:59:13 -0800 (PST)

I was taught to just use cheap box cutter knives from the dollar store for
grafting... and they work just as well as more expensive box cutters from the
hardware store.  My hands are not very big so I like the really small box
cutters.  They sure are a cheap way to put a knife in every student's hands
at a workshop.

Most of my grafting up until this year has been simple bud grafting using Dr.
Evan's method, but the utility knives also worked very well this year when I
branched into stick grafting (both splitting the rootstock to insert the
stick and grafting with the stick under the bark as well as shaping the
grafting stick).  The box cutters are especially handy because when they
dull, you just snap off that section and keep going.
 
Sarah
zone 3
Edmonton, AB


________________________________
From: Claude Jolicoeur <cjoli@gmc.ulaval.ca>
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:43:32 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Putting on grafting workshops

A 13:18 11.11.10 -0500, vous avez écrit :
>I am planning on putting on a grafting workshop next spring,
.....
>Final practical details: I have only 3 grafting knives.  If I have, say,
20 people in my workshop,
>is it feasible to share these 3 knives around?

David,
I never had a real grafting knive... I use the sort of utility knive that
we use to do things such as cutting gypsum boards - these have replacable
blades that have a triangular shape. When grating season starts, I put a
new blade in and I am set for the season... Inexpensive and it works well.
Honestly, I don't think it is that important that the blade is sharpened
only on one side.
Claude
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From: Ginda Fisher <list@ginda.us>
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:00:08 -0500
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>,
North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
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Subject: Re: [NAFEX]
=?utf-8?q?Mulch/Landscapic_fabric_underneath_fruit/nut_tr?
=?utf-8?q?ees and shrubs?X-BeenThere: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
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Or use something biodegradable instead of landscape fabric. I've had good
luck with a couple of layers of newspaper covered with a thin layer of mulch.
--
Ginda

Typed with Swype. Who knows what I intended to say?

"Erdman, James" <erdmanj@uwstout.edu> wrote:

>
>I have found that landscaping fabric covered with wood chips, straw,
>grass, or other organic material is fine for a short time, but in the
>long run, the organic material decomposes and becomes another layer of
>soil which supports a good crop of weeds, but these weeds have there
>roots entangled in the fabric and are harder to pull. I would
>recommend the thicker layer of wood chips, with NO fabric.
>
>Jim Erdman, in Menomonie, WI
>________________________________________
>
>Should I:
>B. Use non-woven landscaping fabric and just cover it with a thin layer
>of cedar wood chips (untreated), partially for aesthetic purposes.
>If I go with the non-woven landscaping fabric, would 2.8 oz be
>good-enough, or do I need 4 oz non-woven; or 3 oz./5 oz. woven?
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