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  • From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Putting on grafting workshops
  • Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:49:34 -0800

Contact the Home Orchard Society http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/ They
do lots of grafting workshops.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, book, The Grape Grower, at
http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner GWA "Best Talent in Writing" 2003.
Grape pruning video: http://www.bunchgrapes.com/dvd.html View a short, low
resolution clip here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q58zFY0B1M
A video about The Grape Grower :
http://cookingupastory.com/index.php/2008/04/18/the-grape-grower/





On Nov 10, 2011, at 10:18 AM, david.maxwell@dal.ca wrote:

I am planning on putting on a grafting workshop next spring, covering both
grafting to
rootstocks and topworking established trees. I have a good supply of the
latter, (an
abandoned orchard), but am unsure how best to manage the former. Does
anybody have
advice to offer, based on their experience?
How many rootstocks should I set aside for each participant? What sort of
rootstocks?
(dwarfing? seedling? Bare root or potted up?)
I have always done field grafting in April/May when the rootstock has broken
dormancy. Is it
feasible to hold my rootstocks for the workshop in cool storage and graft
them at the
workshop, then send the parcipants home with newly grafted trees to be
planted
immediately? (ie. can one graft onto dormant rootstock, and then plant the
grafted tree out
immediately, and have successful take? I know that growers who graft in the
winter will then
place their grafted trees in warm storage until the grafts take and callus
over, then cool them
again until planting out in spring. What I don't know is whether if one
grafts in spring, with
dormant rootstock (and, obviously, dormant scionwood), and then immediately
plants them
out, trusting that the rootstock will come to life in the field in time to
callus in the graft, will
work.
Final practical details: I have only 3 grafting knives. If I have, say, 20
people in my workshop,
is it feasible to share these 3 knives around? How well do things like Olfa
knives work, (ie.
does one require a real grafting knife, sharpened only on one side, to get
good grafts? (I
suppose I could re-sharpen a bunch of Olfa knives specifically for the
purpose if the answer
is "yes".) Do I need to explicitly absolve myself of responsibility if
partipants cut themselves?
Any and all advice most gratefully received, either to the list-serv, or
off-line directly to me.
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