North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Webmail wynne" <wynne@crcwnet.com>]

well i just dont like the darn macintosh apple or its crosses   they
are soft when
you pick em and i dont like soft apples
hoping you all might share your apple 10 best picks  apples and pears
if you have
my first criterion is taste, then keeping ability
you all are the most knowledgable and experienced of critics
please help me out, the apple market  is in the water closet
wynne in n.c. washington state

On 1/19/09, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
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> Today's Topics:
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>    1.   Control of Brown Rot (rmelrose@danvilleVT.net)
>    2. Re: Control of Brown Rot (Eddie Earles)
>    3. Brown rot_Indar info (Harrick, Barbara)
>    4. Re: Grapple: an apple that tastes like grapes.
>       (William C. Garthright)
>    5. Re: orchard bees (William C. Garthright)
>    6. Re: orchard bees (D Stubbs)
>    7.  Brown rot_Indar info (Scott Smith)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:00:58 -0500 (EST)
> From: rmelrose@danvilleVT.net
> Subject: [NAFEX]   Control of Brown Rot
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <tkrat.2e90124472e62231@danvilleVT.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=us-ascii
>
> Thanks for the comments on- and off-line, Mark, Alan and Scott. I am now
> tending towards a couple of blossom sprays (plus the usual, earlier,
> dormant oil spray) to try to get the BR pressure down a bit. I will look
> more fully into Indar and Pristine as possibilities (maybe alternated to
> reduce resistance problems). I am not so convinced that in practice copper
> is less toxic than these two and I have had no joy with sulphur -- just too
> hard for me to manage.
>
> Richard
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:14:21 -0500
> From: "Eddie Earles" <jas39a@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Control of Brown Rot
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <000c01c97a40$3a573860$2101a8c0@d3y9tx01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I use Ferbam at pink bud and at petal fall; and captan at intervals of
> approximately 7 to 10 days thereafter, until within about 2 weeks of
> harvest, for my peaches and plums, and get (in most years) good control of
> brown rot.  With peaches, it also helps to thin the fruit so that no two
> fruits are touching.
>
> Eddie Earles
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:23:01 -0500
> From: "Harrick, Barbara" <b.harrick@ilslaunch.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Brown rot_Indar info
> To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
>       <104BC7B1D4AE8E4A9F0B85850CEA1D1502A6CA42@ils-ex2.ilslaunch.local>
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>
> Hi all. Here in Northern VA, zone 6b, I had horrible brown rot last
> year. I tried Serenade, but I think the rot was too entrenched for the
> Serenade to make a difference.
>
> I am going to try Indar this year. I had emailed Dow AgroSciences
> Information [INFO@dow.com] to find out where I could purchase. Following
> was the response for my area.
>
> Barbara,
>
> Thank you for contacting Dow AgroSciences.  Following are distributors
> in your area that carry our Crops line of products. They may have the
> product in stock or may be able to order it for you.  If you have any
> questions, feel free to contact us at 1-800-258-3033.
>
> Helena Chemical
> 224A Welltown Road
> Winchester, VA 22603
> Phone: 540-667-2371
>
> UAP
> 231 Lenoir Dr
> Winchester, VA 22603
> Phone: 540-662-1742
>
> Sue
> Dow AgroSciences
> Customer Information Group
> 800-258-3033
> *Trademark of Dow AgroSciences
>
> This information is presented in good faith and believed to be accurate
> as of the date appearing above. Because use conditions and applicable
> laws may differ depending on a variety of factors including location and
> time, recipient is responsible for determining whether the information
> in this document is appropriate for recipient's use. Since Dow
> AgroSciences has no control over how this information may be ultimately
> used, all liability is expressly disclaimed and Dow AgroSciences assumes
> no obligation or liability from its use. No warranty, express or
> implied, is given and all warranties are expressly disclaimed, including
> but not limited to fitness for a particular purpose or merchantability.
> No permission nor consent is given or implied with respect to any
> patent, trademark or intellectual property rights owned by Dow
> AgroSciences.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: b.harrick@ilslaunch.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:12 AM
> To: Dow AgroSciences Canada Solution
> Subject: Contact Us
>
>
>
> Barbara Harrick
> Senior Technical Editor/Writer
> International Launch Services
> 1875 Explorer Street, Suite 700
> Reston, VA 20190
> office (571) 633-7430
> fax (571) 633-7536
>
> DISCLAIMER
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> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 07:06:32 -0500
> From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] controlling brown rot in stone fruit
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID:
>       <1f544d60901190406s1691f0bdt7667ba78bac55f14@mail.gmail.com>
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>
> Indar is much more affective than Captan for the control of blossum
> blight
> and brown rot.  Here in humid southeastern NY, once I have the pathogen
> under control I can often control BR with a single application of Indar
> a
> month before the first peaches ripen.  With plums a seperate application
> may
> be necessary a month before the particular variety ripens.  In very wet
> seasons an extra application or 2 may be necessary, but I never have to
> spray within a month of harvest anything besides cherries.
>
> I am interested in the efficacy of Pristine.  Has anyone out there tried
> reduced applications of that substance to control BR in their orchards?
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> ------------------------------
>
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 08:49:02 -0500
> From: Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>
> Subject: [NAFEX]  Control of Brown Rot
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <BEF0AD7A-B5C5-4B2E-9830-6F05EFCBADD6@cs.jhu.edu>
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>
> Richard, there are some lower impact options out there that may (or
> may not) work for you.  I had kept brown rot away for several years by
> spraying copper plus a sticker 3-4 times in the spring, up through
> shuck split on the peaches.  I only did two copper sprays this last
> spring (and nothing later) and I ended up with bad brown rot for the
> first time.  So if you use copper you need lots of coverage.  It
> cannot be sprayed after shuck split due to phytotoxicity.  This coming
> summer I am going to be trying Serenade MAX and Saf-T-Side oil later
> in the season.  There was a study which found both of these moderately
> effective against brown rot.  The Saf-T-Side was more effective than
> Captan in the study.  Sulphur is also somewhat effective but based on
> my limited experience you really need to be diligent on the coverage
> to get efficacy.  If you have lots of pathogen build-up in your
> orchard you may need to use Indar or the like for a season or two just
> to lower the pressure.
>
> I would be interested in hearing what other organic growers are doing
> about brown rot.
>
> Scott
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:32:53 -0600
> From: "William C. Garthright" <billg@inebraska.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grapple: an apple that tastes like grapes.
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <49749D25.9020406@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
>> I thought that was amusing. I found a pack of 4 apples at the local
>> store labled as Grapple.
>
>
> Amusing, yes. But I tried them once, and I couldn't believe how bad they
> were. They didn't taste like grapes, but like grape pop (sort of). It
> was a very artificial taste. Then again, I'm not the target demographic,
> I'm sure. Maybe kids would like something that tasted like that, but I
> certainly didn't!
>
> :-)
>
> Bill
> Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
>
> --
> It rains on the just and the unjust, but rarely just enough on either. -
> Lemuel K. Washburn
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:57:36 -0600
> From: "William C. Garthright" <billg@inebraska.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] orchard bees
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4974A2F0.9090806@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
>> After building up a sizable japanese hornfaced bee colony only to have
>> it devoured by barn swallows in a single season I'd like to start over
>> either with hornfaced or blue orchard bees for my fruit trees.
>
>
> In what part of the country do you live, Seth? I've been trying to raise
> orchard bees for the past couple of years, but I'm having some problems
> with it. Well, the first year, they all came out of their tubes just
> fine in our extremely warm March, but then we had that hard April freeze
> (some bees still survived, but I have no idea how, because there wasn't
> anything blooming here for a long, long time).
>
> Last spring, very few emerged from the tubes. Much later, when I finally
> investigated, it appeared that the bees on the ends had died (I have no
> idea why), and so the other bees couldn't get out. They'd apparently
> tried to chew their way though the sides of the tubes, but none
> succeeded. And of the bees that did colonize new tubes last year, there
> are small holes in most of the plugs of mud at the ends, as if something
> chewed its way inside - whether a predator, a parasite, or a smaller
> bee, I don't know. (Note that this hadn't happened the year before.)
>
> I've got tons of leaf-cutter bees - which *are* much smaller -
> colonizing the tubes (although many of their leaf plugs at the ends were
> also holed, by something, last year). However, they seem to emerge later
> than the orchard bees, too late to pollinate some early blooming fruit
> trees. I don't know if I should be trying to discourage the leaf-cutter
> bees, or not. I'd like to have them around, but I'd rather have orchard
> bees. (And I'm wondering if they are what has lately been chewing
> through the plugs of the early bees.)
>
> At any rate, I don't know anything about hornfaced bees. Are they even
> suited to this climate? But it would be nice to get a variety of
> solitary bees established, if possible.
>
> Bill
> Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
>
> --
> I never drink water because of the disgusting things that fish do in it.
> - W. C. Fields
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 11:04:54 -0600
> From: "D Stubbs" <dsmndel@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] orchard bees
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
>       <e49123cc0901190904t40f2fcediaa048a5a73d4bb42@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I too have had limited success so far with osmias. First year I paid a
> whopping $1 each to get 20 bees from Utah, but then had little re-populating
> into new tubes. Next 2 years I put out copious bunches of various sized
> native reed tubes, only a few had mud on the end by fall. One day however I
> noticed a tiny wasp bringing in a tinier caterpillar  into a tube and
> mudding it over, so now I wonder when I have 'mudded over' tube ends just
> which animal has laid eggs!
> I too have many with tiny  holes in the end by mid summer.
> A parasite?
> Last year I took a number of 2x6 blcks, drilled 5+" long holes cross grain
> in them and hung them on various corner posts in our orchard at various
> heights. The best height seemed to be about 4' off the ground. 2' up had no
> mudded ends.
> So this winter I will work up a few dozen more blocks and scatter them in
> even more disparite places to learn the preference.
> Does anyone know how to examine the 'mudded end' and know it is actually
> osmias or not?
> Anyone feel it is worth it to buy paper tube inserts to put in my wood
> blocks - versus just drilled holes?
> thanks, Del
> Z 2/3 ...  still undecieded -  lowest this year so far is -41F
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 12:12:24 -0500
> From: Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>
> Subject: [NAFEX]  Brown rot_Indar info
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <91B6F68A-F676-45C2-8271-485C99093367@cs.jhu.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> Can anyone comment on propiconazole (Orbit, also available as Monterey
> Fungi-fighter) or myclobutanil (Nova, also available as Immunox or
> Eagle 20EW) for brown rot?  I am looking at them because they are
> readily available for backyard growers (under the "also available as"
> names above).  Fenbuconazole, the Indar active ingredient, seems to be
> only available in larger quantity.   Given my horrible year last year
> I am thinking I may need something heavy-duty for next summer at least.
>
> Scott
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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