| i only have a riding lawn mower at my disposal - so in fall after leaf drop i do a final mowing to shred up the leaves as best i can and shoot them into the alleys, and then either compost over top of them, or lime (a la Mr. Phillips) to speed the decomposition. i also do a lot of mulching during winter in the rows with non- fruit tree shredded leaves from the nearby college groundskeepers, and i like to think that helps too, physically blocking any spores that might have caught hold to the soil surface or the dropped fruit tree leaves under the mulch. if only i could leave my spring grass long and wavy to catch the spores too, but i have to mow to allow for visitor access, as we are a demonstration orchard. thanks for the links, karen oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
On Apr 6, 2008, at 8:58 PM, < dmnorton@royaloakfarmorchard.com> < dmnorton@royaloakfarmorchard.com> wrote: Karen, Are you removing your fallen leaves from the area where your trees are? Scab overwinters on the dead leaves and if you remove them or at least mulch them up really good, you will eliminate any overwintering scab and half the battle is won. A short article entitled "Organic disease control for apples. David Rosenberger, Cornell Univ. 2007." can be found at http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/scaffolds/2007/070319.html#disease. He covers the use of LLS (liquid lime sulfur) after a rainfall that might be of help to your situation. Hope this helps! ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:58 AM Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control --karen's
well, scab. remember how i said i am a lazy sprayer? it goes for scab too. so much depends on our spring weather here. we don't get summer rain, so july/august scab is a non-issue. depending on our may/june though, we'll get those warm days with rain that heat up those spores. if i am being good and following the weather reports, and i can get a sulfur spray on with a good sticker (i'm still just using NU-FILM 17 - are there better ones on the OMRI list??) the last dry day before those rains start, i get good protection. the key with sulfur is that it's a prophylactic only, it doesn't stop scab that is already on your trees. using it that way, i've definitely reduced my scab in what could have been a bad year.
for the last week though now it keeps hailing on the about to open pear blooms. it's a bit depressing. half of the buds (the ones facing up) are gone black and squidgy.
karen oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet On Apr 6, 2008, at 7:29 AM, Patsy King wrote: I am so pleased to hear the details of your experiences with the codling controls you've described. I had not heard from anybody who had tried the CYD-X virus and did not even know that "Last Call" was available yet or what its name was, just a description. This info will help many growers. And thanks so much for the link to the site for trying to calculate when to do the controls. I knew it was online somewhere, but you've saved me lots of time searching for it!!!
I'd be interested too to hear how your experiences have been with scab. I would suspect your location would be even more scab prone than mine.
People's experiences with the major apple problems would be a great topic for articles in Pomona in my opinion, since so many people grow apples.
Thanks again to all who've been giving their ideas...
patsy in SW oregon zone 7-8
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 18:03:50 -0700
From: Karen Tillou <arboretum@homeorchardsociety.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID:
<D521E733-9747-4BD5-8226-4B8FBCB550B8@homeorchardsociety.org">D521E733-9747-4BD5-8226-4B8FBCB550B8@homeorchardsociety.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
patsy - i have a maybe 100 apple trees that i manage organically here
in the pacific northwest.
the two uses for codling moth traps do not require different pheremone
lures, it is merely a matter of the number of traps you put out, as
you suspected. i use just a few traps to monitor the emerging
population each spring, but costs prevent me from buying two traps for
each tree to trap them out....
there exists a product called "Last Call" that combines the codling
moth pheremone with a synthetic pyrethrin pesticide - you apply 5-10
"droplets" scattered on the branches of each tree (i think that was
the recommended #) - the male moths home in on the pheremone, but die
when they come in contact with the pesticide. it is not OMRI listed,
because of the pesticide, but is much less destructive to beneficial
bugs than spraying. if you have the time to apply the stuff, i think
it might be a good solution for a small orchard.
my experience with CYD-X has been on the positive side, for a small
orchard. a group of us with small numbers of trees got together and
split the cost of one bottle, which has a shelf life of 18 months if
you freeze it between uses. i have seen gradual reductions in my
codling moth populations over the three years of use, and that is from
a once or twice per year spray regime (terribly lazy, i know) with no
other controls beyond religious removal of windfalls during the
harvest period.
my neighbor and his 20-30 big old trees has also been happy with his
results.
one organic grower i know splurged on his $300 bottle of virus,
sprayed it intensively every week during the first and second
generation egg hatch periods, and so completely wiped out his
population that he has not had to spray for the two years since.
the thing with CYD-X is timing: it has only a 3 day life out in the UV
light, and must be injested by the larvae before they enter the
apples. which means the best time for them to do that is as they chew
their way out of their egg cases. WSU researchers Brunner and Hoyt
came up with a phenology model for the codling moth, linking degree
days to their egg hatching. this model is available online, where you
can plug in a local weather station's data and find out when the eggs
are hatching, to better time your sprays. i use the site www.pnwpest.org/wea/
that has links to oregon, washington and idaho weather stations.
(are there other sites out there for different parts of the country?)
i think part of my slow results from using the virus are from poor
timing, as it is inevitably raining the days i need to spray....
hope this helps
karen
oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
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