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Karen,
Are you removing your fallen leaves from
the area where your trees are? Scab overwinters on the dead leaves and if
you remove them or at least mulch them up really good, you will eliminate any
overwintering scab and half the battle is won. A short article
entitled "Organic disease control for apples. David
Rosenberger, Cornell Univ. 2007." can be found
at http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/scaffolds/2007/070319.html#disease. He covers the use of LLS (liquid lime sulfur) after a
rainfall that might be of help to your situation. Hope this
helps!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:58
AM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control
--karen's
well, scab. remember how i said i am a lazy sprayer?
it goes for scab too. so much depends on our spring weather here.
we don't get summer rain, so july/august scab is a non-issue.
depending on our may/june though, we'll get those warm days with rain
that heat up those spores. if i am being good and following the weather
reports, and i can get a sulfur spray on with a good sticker (i'm still just
using NU-FILM 17 - are there better ones on the OMRI list??) the last dry day
before those rains start, i get good protection. the key with sulfur is
that it's a prophylactic only, it doesn't stop scab that is already on your
trees. using it that way, i've definitely reduced my scab in what could
have been a bad year.
for the last week though now it keeps hailing on the about to open pear
blooms. it's a bit depressing. half of the buds (the ones facing
up) are gone black and squidgy.
karen
oregon city, OR - zone 8a and
wet
On Apr 6, 2008, at 7:29 AM, Patsy King wrote:
I am so pleased to hear the details of your
experiences with the codling controls you've described. I had not
heard from anybody who had tried the CYD-X virus and did not even know
that "Last Call" was available yet or what its name was, just a
description. This info will help many growers. And thanks so much for
the link to the site for trying to calculate when to do the controls.
I knew it was online somewhere, but you've saved me lots of time searching
for it!!!
I'd be interested too to hear how your experiences have
been with scab. I would suspect your location would be even more scab
prone than mine.
People's experiences with the major apple problems
would be a great topic for articles in Pomona in my opinion, since so many
people grow apples.
Thanks again to all who've been giving their
ideas...
patsy in SW oregon zone 7-8
Message:
4
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 18:03:50 -0700
From: Karen Tillou <arboretum@homeorchardsociety.org>
Subject:
Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
To: North American
Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID:
<D521E733-9747-4BD5-8226-4B8FBCB550B8@homeorchardsociety.org">D521E733-9747-4BD5-8226-4B8FBCB550B8@homeorchardsociety.org>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
patsy - i have a maybe 100 apple
trees that i manage organically here
in the pacific
northwest.
the two uses for codling moth traps do not require
different pheremone
lures, it is merely a matter of the number of traps
you put out, as
you suspected. i use just a few traps to monitor
the emerging
population each spring, but costs prevent me from buying
two traps for
each tree to trap them out....
there exists a
product called "Last Call" that combines the codling
moth pheremone
with a synthetic pyrethrin pesticide - you apply 5-10
"droplets"
scattered on the branches of each tree (i think that was
the
recommended #) - the male moths home in on the pheremone, but die
when
they come in contact with the pesticide. it is not OMRI
listed,
because of the pesticide, but is much less destructive to
beneficial
bugs than spraying. if you have the time to apply the
stuff, i think
it might be a good solution for a small
orchard.
my experience with CYD-X has been on the positive side,
for a small
orchard. a group of us with small numbers of trees
got together and
split the cost of one bottle, which has a shelf life
of 18 months if
you freeze it between uses. i have seen gradual
reductions in my
codling moth populations over the three years of use,
and that is from
a once or twice per year spray regime (terribly lazy,
i know) with no
other controls beyond religious removal of windfalls
during the
harvest period.
my neighbor and his 20-30 big old trees
has also been happy with his
results.
one organic grower i know
splurged on his $300 bottle of virus,
sprayed it intensively every week
during the first and second
generation egg hatch periods, and so
completely wiped out his
population that he has not had to spray for
the two years since.
the thing with CYD-X is timing: it has only a
3 day life out in the UV
light, and must be injested by the larvae
before they enter the
apples. which means the best time for them
to do that is as they chew
their way out of their egg cases. WSU
researchers Brunner and Hoyt
came up with a phenology model for the
codling moth, linking degree
days to their egg hatching. this
model is available online, where you
can plug in a local weather
station's data and find out when the eggs
are hatching, to better time
your sprays. i use the site www.pnwpest.org/wea/
that has links to oregon,
washington and idaho weather stations.
(are there other sites out there
for different parts of the country?)
i think part of my slow
results from using the virus are from poor
timing, as it is inevitably
raining the days i need to spray....
hope this
helps
karen
oregon city, OR - zone 8a and
wet
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