North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Mark Lee" <markl@nytec.com>]

Lon,

Since you have successfully grafted blueberries, can you answer these basic questions?

1.  When do you cut scionwood?

2.  When do you graft?

3.  What form of graft do you use?

-Mark Lee, Seattle, USDA cold zone 8a

 

-----Original Message-----
From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lon Rombough
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 5:30 PM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] blueberries for neutral soil

 

In one of the older POMONAs there is an article from (name escapes me) who studied Vaccinium arboreum, so called "farkleberry" of the South. It was sufficiently tolerant of alkaline soils that northern highbush blueberries could be grafted on the species and they would survive and produce when they would die on their own roots. One old timer apparently had a patch of such grafted berries that was 25 years old and in good production. I have a piece of V. arboreum grafted on highbush blueberries, and it's quite interesting. I had thought of crossing the two, but the V. arboreum doesn't bloom until the highbush types have ripe fruit.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers Association "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
On Feb 13, 2005, at 2:33 PM, Louisa Rogoff Thompson wrote: