North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Thomas Olenio <tolenio@sentex.net>]

Hi,

Funny you should mention this, as I have been meaning to write you about
it.

I took a course this spring at the University of Guelph, lead by
Professor Henry Kock.  The University of Guelph specializes in
horticultural and agricultural areas.

Professor Kock reccomended that after wrapping the graft union with
elastic strips, to paint the entire graft and scion (including the tip)
with with that black pruning paint.  Here in Canada it is made by Wilson.

He said that the scion will grow through it, and he has had excellant
results using it.

In addition his family ran a nursery, and he personally has done thousands
and thousands of grafts this way.

Is this just a matter of mass production, versus being able to "baby" a
handful of hobby grafts?

Thanks,
Tom

--
Thomas Olenio
Ontario, Hardiness Zone 6a

On Fri, 23 Mar 2001, Gordon Nofs wrote:

> There are no reputable tree surgeons that use That black tarry canned stuff 
> sold in stores for years. Ask them and they say thae tree does better 
> without it.
>    Gordon
> *********************************************************
> In the woody cylinder, although the xylem tissues are dead, the parenchyma
> cells of the rays are alive.  These cells have the capacity to divide and
> eventually reconstitute the cambium.  Obviously if the wound is left to dry
> out, these parenchyma cells will die, but if one moves promptly, there is a
> very respectable chance of saving streaks, at least, of live tissue.  
> Generally
> I'd give 50:50 odds on getting enough reconstitution to save the tree. Of
> course, the longer the girdle, the deeper the damage, and the longer the 
> drying
> period, the less likely is success.
> 
> Most True Value stores carry "Tree Kote", a heavy black wax product that is
> relatively easy to use.   A Saran-type plastic wrapping might serve;  I've
> never tried it.  Time, though, is of the essence;  do it yesterday!
> 
> //Jim
> www.cumminsnursery.com
> 
> Gordon Nofs wrote:
> 
>  > I see no reason where this will connect and feed the cambium in any way. 
>  
> I
>  > would not even take a chance at it.
>  >       Gordon
>  > *******************************************************
>  > ----Original Message Follows----
>  > From: Thomas Olenio <tolenio@sentex.net>
>  > Reply-To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
>  > To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
>  > Subject: Re: [nafex] Girdled Apple Trees
>  > Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:10:44 -0500 (EST)
>  >
>  > Hi,
>  >
>  > Do they say what purpose this serves?  Would the wax from a toilet seal
>  > work just as well (a lot cheaper).
>  >
>  > Thanks,
>  > Tom
>  >
>  > --
>  > Thomas Olenio
>  > Ontario, Hardiness Zone 6a
>  >
>  > On Thu, 22 Mar 2001, Doreen Howard wrote:
>  >
>  >  > I found this in the current issue of The Avant Gardener--it may help 
> the
>  >  > person with the rabbit-girdled apple trees.
>  >  >
>  >  > "When a tree trunk or branch has been girdled by an animal chewing
>  > through
>  >  > the bark, heat some beeswax and paint it over the wound, extending the
>  >  > covering slightly beyond the injury."
>  >  >
>  >  > The newsletter recommends a beeswax-lanolin product--NuBark Pruning
>  > Sealer.
>  >  > It can be purchased from IntAgra, 6500 Pillsbury Ave. South, 
> Minneapolis,
>  > MN
>  >  > 55420
>  >  >
>  >  > Doreen Howard,
>  >  > Wisconsin Zone 4b, where the snow has FINALLY melted and
>  >  > the rhubarb is peeking out of the ground.
>  >  >
>  >  >
>  >  >
>  >  >
>  >  >
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