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Subject: Compost Teas: 24 hour, EM, IM, BD & fermented plant extracts

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  • From: "Jeff Lowenfels" <jeff AT gardener.com>
  • To: "compostteas" <Compostteas AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: [Compostteas] Chlorine and Chloramines
  • Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:24:56 -0800

I found this from Fritz industries, makers of fish tank stuff. Their site is
http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html

It seems to suggest you can use sodium Thiosulfate to clean up water. Is
this right?

Chlorine and Chloramines

Before adding bacteria or fish to any aquarium or system, all chlorine must
be completely neutralized. Residual chlorine or chloramines will kill
Fritz-Zyme bacteria and fish.

Most US cities now treat their drinking water with chloramines. Chloramines
are more stable than chlorine. It is advisable to test for chlorine with an
inexpensive test kit. If you are unsure whether your water has been treated
with chloramine, test for ammonia after neutralizing the chlorine. You can
also call your local water treatment facility.

The type of chloramines formed is dependent on pH. Most of it exists as
either monochloramine (NH2Cl) or dichloramine (NHCl2). They are made by
adding ammonia to chlorinated water. Commercial chlorine reducing chemicals,
such as sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O2) break the chlorine:ammonia bond.
Chlorine (Cl) is reduced to harmless chloride (Cl- ) ion. Since dichloramine
has two chlorine molecules, a double dose of a chlorine remover, such as
sodium thiosulfate, is recommended.

Each molecule of chloramine that is reduced will produce one molecule of
ammonia. If the chloramine concentration is 2 ppm then your aquarium or
system will start out with 2 ppm of ammonia. Chlorine Remover will reduce up
to 2 ppm of chlorine at recommended dosages. During the warmer months
chlorine levels may exceed 2 ppm. A double dose would be required to
effectively eliminate the excess chlorine.






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