permaculture

[Tripp Tibbetts <slowfoodguy@yahoo.com>]

Yes!  Deep cultivation is a practice that is slowly being abandoned.  Heresy 
in some circles, I know...



The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow.
-Chinese proverb
 

--- On Mon, 12/7/09, Golden Love <goldenlove@cruzio.com> wrote:


From: Golden Love <goldenlove@cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: [permaculture] Double-dug?
To: "'permaculture'" <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
Date: Monday, December 7, 2009, 3:08 PM


Doesn't double digging destroy soil structure? 

Golden Love
Love's Gardens
"Your neighborhood solar-powered gardener"  (TM)
California Licensed Contractor C27 363672
127 National St.
Santa Cruz, CA 95060-6516
Phone  (831) 471-9100
Fax  ( 831) 471-9200
goldenlove@lovesgardens.com
www.lovesgardens.com

-----Original Message-----
From: permaculture-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:permaculture-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dick Pierce
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 12:45 PM
To: permaculture
Subject: Re: [permaculture] Double-dug?

Probably lots of Google diagrams on how to do this - quite simple and
productive but rather labor intensive. John Jeavons is the US Master of this
technique borrowed from the French Intensive Method (fresh veggies to Paris
markets from rural truck farmers for almost 12 months per year). "How to
Grow More Vegetables on Less Land than You Ever Thought Possible" is the
main book I'd recommend.

A typical Google image is copied below - for example for a 4x8 foot bed
(enough to see if you like the sweat equity investment and whether your soil
is amenable), the method is to dig "trenches" 4' long by 1' wide by 10-16"
deep - one foot at a time down the bed. To start, dig the 1st trench at one
4' end of the bed to one spade depth, or so - put this dirt in a wheelbarrow
or other container for later transport to the other end of the bed. Now to
the steady-state - use a spading fork to loosen the soil in the trench to
another spade depth.

Then finish trench 1 and start trench 2 - by digging another 4'x1'x10-16"
trench next to/parallel to the first one, and placing the soil from this
trench 2 into trench 1. Result is a finished, fluffed-up trench 1, and an
open trench 2. Use the spading fork now in trench 2 to loosen the soil well
for another 10-16" in trench 2.

Continue to do this - dig an new trench, put soil in the previous trench,
and then loosen the subsoil in the new trench with the spading fork. Most
people use a 2x4' piece of plywood to stand on while digging - this nicely
defines the far edge of the new trench and provides a little leverage to the
spade during the digging. Move the 2'x4' a foot for each new trench. The
plywood keeps the mud/dirt somewhat off of your boots and keeps your feet
from compacting the soil.

At the end of the bed you should have a trench that has been spaded out and
loosened to another spade's depth (that is, double dug), but with no next
trench to provide back-fill soil - use the soil excavated from the very 1st
trench that is in the wheel-barrow to fill it.

That's the basics in words - you'll get it better from the diagram below or
other image on google and best by doing it. It is better with a friend(s) to
urge you on and to share the task with you. Plants and plant roots love it -
so do soil microbes as they use the loose pore structure created for root
hairs to suck up minerals and O2 in solution in the newly created pores.

We have very heavy clay here in C-TX and sometimes very shallow topsoils.
Double digging won't work if you don't have at least 2 spade depths of
topsoil. And heavy clay soils are tough, tough, tough to dig. But every
gardener/farmer should do one bed once to see if the effort and the results
are worth it - both often substantial. After 1-2 times of double digging,
soil microbes and plant roots should take over the job of keeping the soil
full of pore space for water, air, and root hairs.

Good luck with it - fall/winter is a good time to do this on unfrozen,
reasonably dry ground vs. the hot sun of late spring/summer - it's aerobic
enough in cold weather.

Dick Pierce



On Sun, Dec 6, 2009 at 2:06 PM, Jeff <toobeeorknottoobee@gmail.com> wrote:

> Just curious, can someone give me an explanation or a how to on double
> digging a plot for biointensive plantings?
>
> -Jeff
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-- 
DickPierceDesigns@gmail.com
SE-NE (summer) & Austin, TX (winter) cell- 512-992-8858

Please check out www.permie.us
Sept 14-25    -12-day PC Design -MV-MA
Sept 26- Nov -10-day PDC Design
                    Course, Austin TX - w'ends

-Dick's PC-Bio. on www.permie.us
-You Tube Dick Pierce for video clips
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>From raincascadia@yahoo.com  Mon Dec  7 13:34:23 2009
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Subject: [permaculture] upland Mediterranean climate
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Dieter,
 
What is your elevation and temperature regime?  We are at 1160 ft (350 
meters).  It usually gets down to around 22 F (-5 C) during the Winter, 
though it has probably gone down to 12 F (-11 C).  We get these Spring frosts 
that are unusually cold which are also unusually colder than the main valley 
below us for some reason that often destroy our stone fruit crops and things 
like potatoes.  In the Summer, we usually have around 14 days of temperatures 
over 100 F (38 C), typically getting to around 110 F (44 C).  Our average 
high is supposed to be 92 F (34 C), but I think it's been hotter since we 
moved here five years ago.  The Summer nights usually get into the 50s (10s 
in C), as we are 30 miles from the ocean which is epicenter of upwelling and 
the coldest ocean temperatures on the US West Coast.  This makes it hard for 
many fruits to ripen properly.  Kind of a weird climate, eh?
 
By the way, what is a waterline?  At our place, only the hardiest trees can 
survive the strategy you use.  I don't think I could get any fruit from 
unirrigated trees, except maybe for olives in the shade.  I still need to 
experiment with pushing the limits on drought tolerance, but for the price of 
most trees, it makes much more sense to give them all the love and care that 
they need to thrive.
 
Rain



>From slowfoodguy@yahoo.com  Mon Dec  7 14:17:08 2009
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From: Tripp Tibbetts <slowfoodguy@yahoo.com>
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If I were granted access to the Permaculture Activist archives, I'd be 
happy to contribute my time to putting together a calendar of past events.
 
Tripp



The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow.
-Chinese proverb
 

--- On Mon, 12/7/09, Michael Pilarski <friendsofthetrees@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Michael Pilarski <friendsofthetrees@yahoo.com>
Subject: [permaculture] US National Permaculture Conference proposal.
To: "permaculture" <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
Date: Monday, December 7, 2009, 3:46 AM


US National Permaculture Conference proposal. 

Shall we dance?

To the permaculture community,

There has only been one US national permaculture conference and it was 
defacto rather than stated, as it was the 2nd International Permaculture 
Convergence and Conference held in 1986, respectively in Breitenbush Hot 
Springs, Oregon and Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington.  700 
people attended the conference from around the world and from around the US. 
 

I have always found it suprising that no other national conference has been 
held.  I suppose it is because the energy and expense of doing one has been 
too daunting for any local or regional group.

I have considered pulling together a coalition of people to do one, but have 
not done so for the above reason.  I am sure that others have also toyed 
with the idea.  Is anyone thinking of doing so at this time?  

Our organizing committee for our Washington State Permaculture Convergence is 
currently looking at putting on a Pacific Northwest Permaculture Conference 
at Evergreen State College  in September 2010. It would not be inconceivable 
to scale up to a national event. If there was wide support (and real help) 
from other parts of the country. Anyone game?

As far as regional permaculture gatherings, there have been many, but I know 
of no one place you can look up the consecutive history.  Perhaps someone 
would like to go through the calender of events in every issue of the 
Permaculture Activist and make us a master list. That would be peachy keen 
and probably only take a day or two.  

Some regional gatherings include:
1. The northeast US pc convergence held annually for many years, but I think 
it has not been happening for some time.
2. The SE US pc convergence has been held annually for many years, and is 
still continuing. 
3. the Southwest US had a series of annual events some years back.
4. California has had a number of regional gatherings over the years.
5. Oregon had its 10th annual pc reunion in 2008.
6. In the 1980’s and into the 90s there was a series of Pacific Northwest 
Permaculture Rendezvous, which I helped organize. The first 5 were held at 
the Bullock Brothers Homestead on Orcas Island and were dubbed the Orcas 
Island Bog Toss.  
7. Minnesota held its 2nd Annual Permaculture Collaborative Meeting on 
January 27, 2009. Hosted by Intelligent Nutrients Inc.
8. The 2nd Washington State Permaculture Convergence was held this September. 
9. Isabel at Udan Farm mentioned an annual event held in New York state.
10. Rhonda just mentioned a Mid-September 2010, Bloomington, Indiana, Midwest 
regional event which is in the making.
11. It would be great to hear about any ones I haven’t mentioned.

A national gathering would be useful, but certainly more important are a 
plethora of regional and local permaculture gatherings.  

In my opinion, we only have a short window of time for affordable 
long-distance travel which is easily available to the masses.  Time will 
tell.

Anyone interested?

Michael Pilarski
Michael@friendsofthetrees.net
Friends of the Trees Society
Washington State Permaculture Convergence co-organizer. 


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>From udanfarm@yahoo.com  Mon Dec  7 15:37:19 2009
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A few days ago I was looking at someone's permaculture website, and they were 
talking about trattoria-I guess it's a fancy word for small tractors. I've 
seen a few "permaculture" websites talking about what I call BIG machinery 
(anything over a push lawnmower that cost more than about $500 is BIG to me), 
then the questions about double digging made me go back to thinking about 
what IS and is not permaculture...

And I began to wonder-is using machinery on a REGULAR basis good 
Permaculture? Is growing 6 or 8 thousand pounds of food on a small plot of 
land PERMAculture? Or is it market gardening with an eco-twist…Not that I'm 
trying to offend anyone who's doing it...I'm just trying to get clear in my 
head what Mollison wrote about.


I then was searching on this list, and found a thread about the Paleo diet 
and permaculture. Paleo-permaculture he called it.

This is pretty much what I keep coming back to, is that if you have a true 
permaculture site it's not tilled rows of greens to sell, or corn.  In MY 
thoughts, it's probably lots perennial veggies, some annuals here and there, 
hopefully lots of nuts if you are lucky enough to live on a place with trees 
old enough to harvest nuts, or even oak trees for acorns.

But in my imaginary perfect permaculture farm, there is very little corn, no 
soy, no wheat, maybe some quinoa, amaranth and buckwheat (I am very anti 
GRASS as food right now) and lots of sweet potatoes (I live in GA) and 
potatoes in the spring.
So there are starches, but not grasses. Everything should be appropriate to 
your area-so ok, if you live in Kansas you have more corn and wheat…


But I was still wondering about gardening vs. agriculture…the reality of 
having tractors and row-crops being not really what I'd call 
permaculture…wondering if any true premie uses machinery for more than 
earthworks upon setup of a site...


and I was listening to Mollison's 1983 PDC….and then he gave me my 
answer....

"Agriculture always was an unnecessary activity. It is not at all necessary 
to involve one's self in agriculture whatsoever. But it is very necessary to 
involve yourself in gardening...A garden is something that provides a 
HOUSEHOLD with it's nutrient. Agriculture is something in which you 
commercially sell off your product. That leaves the question of area right 
out of it. If you've got a glass house (greenhouse) in your back yard and 
you've only got tomatoes in it you're in agriculture because you intend to 
sell those tomatoes not feed yourself. If you've got a mixed garden in your 
backyard then your a gardener. And you give away or trade a little bit of 
product…." ( To get rid of your excesses and get something you don't have.)
"That's not commerce, that's rightful disposal of surplus where someone can 
use it…" 

Someone asked about wheat. Mollison said, "Wheat and bread and grains 
generally, and grain legumes are a great problem in the system. They are the 
central problem… In my house you won't find any stored grains-we threw them 
all out to the ducks. Because we can grow potatoes. And that's our staple 
diet. And if we start to eat grains, we need an agriculturalist."
He did then mention that they were just beginning to try non-cultivation 
method of growing grains. "But if we don't get it, we'll stick to potatoes, 
and in the garden."
On that note, I threw out a bunch of things like old bulgar, some buggy oats, 
and something I've had so long I don't remember what it is. Gave em to the 
chickens. We have 8 bushels of sweet potatoes to get us through til Spring.
Just my two centsIsabel






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Message-ID: <4B1D6C79.9060405@bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 15:58:33 -0500
From: "Lawrence F. London, Jr." <venaurafarm@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: Re: [permaculture] Double-dug?
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Golden Love wrote:
> Doesn't double digging destroy soil structure?

Good grief. Just Google it and you'll understand
how its done and why it works. Its the single best natural gardening
method for building fertility, depth of tilth and soil water-holding
capacity.