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  • From: Dan Nave <>
  • To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <>
  • Subject: Re: [nafex] Plum Grafting / Budding
  • Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2016 13:24:37 -0500

I got no photo attachment on the post from Jerry, but got it on the
subsequent post from Peter...


On 3/23/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
Jerry -

Yes, the photo came through and is very helpful.

Again, thank you so much for your knowledge and assistance! I am also of
the opinion that tight wrapping is best, at least with the apples and pears
with which I have the most practice/experience. In my opinion, my plum
grafts are wrapped sufficiently tightly; they're just not as tight as I
would have wrapped an apple or pear, as I was concerned my usual
super-tight wrapping last year might have been part of the cause of last
year's plum graft failures ;)

Your explanation of how to properly use parafilm should also be extremely
helpful for others who may be new to using it. Crazing (the technical term
for polymer chain alignment during elongation, if I'm correctly remembering
my schooling) is a necessary ingredient in parafilm's proper use, and is
one of those things you have to have someone explain or show you!


Pete Chrisbacher

On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 8:24 AM, Jerry Lehman <>

On 3/23/2016 7:36 AM, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:

Thank you both, gentlemen, for your helpful advice! I've heard
anecdotally that grafting plums is possible (and one of the guys at the
BYFG grafting meeting told me "ALL my plum grafts took last year! I just
did normal grafts!" without providing any helpful details).

I grafted three last night (splice) on actively growing 1 YO in-ground
rootstock with dime-size leaves. Most of the leaves were high up the
leader, so they ended up getting cut off. I'm assuming (hoping) the roots
will just continue pushing into the scion now if my grafts are any good. I
wrapped tightly but not excessively with a budding rubber, then parafilm,
including a single-wrap covering of the lowest scion bud to keep it from
drying out (2 buds on each scion). Tree-cote to seal the exposed scion cut.


Thank you Fluffy for your concurrence. Let me add 2 more " by the ways,"
and an observation.

Storing cherry scion's in a normal refrigeration for any length of time
can lead to a problem. 40° to 45° is too warm, it approximates the outdoor
temperature when cherry flower buds become active. Likewise they will do
that in the refrigerator at those temperatures and will be too active when
grafting reducing the success rate. Store cherry scion wood as close to the
freezing temperature as you can to keep it fully dormant. My scion storage
refrigerator has been modified and it will actually frost in the bottom
where the coldest air settles and a little frost will not hurt a fully
dormant piece of scion wood. At least I have never detected damage to scion
wood that has been lightly frosted. I would not stored in a deep-freeze
where the temperature can get down to near 0 because if any activity had
begun in the scion wood, the cells filling with water, the cells could
burst damaging the wood.

I have often grafted using the splice graft or machine graft and pulled
the rubber band as tight as I can. You would think it could constrict the
activity but certainly in persimmon and pawpaw I've not seen a problem. It
will girdle the graft sooner because there is less elasticity left for
expansion. As soon as the graft has calloused and begun growth simply cut
the rubber band in one or 2 places and there is no need to remove it as now
the expanding calloused area is not restricted. Again I cover the entire
scion wood starting below the graph point with Parafilm, no need to fool
around with wax or anything else. Simply expand (stretch it out
approximately double length) the Parafilm start below the graft union keep
wrapping all the way up and pitch it off above the scion or continue back
down until you run out of Parafilm. Anything that I have ever grafted
pushes right through it, and I've made many many grafts of many species.

In my opinion wrapping tightly is important. I believe the 2 cambium
layers must be pulled and held together in order to callous, especially in
hardwood such as nut trees which would include harder wood of the plum
family. Plum wood is much more dense than cherry. I've had people tell me
they have successfully grafted using masking tape to hold the understock
and scion together and I have no doubt that can work. But I firmly believe
to increase your success percentage, wrap the graft union tight. Jerry

A persimmon button pushing through Parafilm.

As IBIBLIO often sees pictures as spam ( numerous times I've been removed
from the list for sending pictures) and IBIBLIO doesn't include the sender
I have no way of knowing if this was passed through and if I'm still
allowed on the net. Would someone let me know via direct email that the
picture came through.

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