North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Hank Parker <hwpark@kahres.org>]

thanks for photo
Hank Parker
Maple syrup makers never die,
They just evaporate!




> On Mar 24, 2016, at 2:27 AM, fuwa fuwa usagi <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I did not see the photos either.
> 
> --- list@ginda.us wrote:
> 
> From: Ginda Fisher <list@ginda.us>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters      
>   <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Plum Grafting / Budding
> Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2016 20:16:24 -0400
> 
> Very odd. I got no attachment/photo with the original post, but did get a 
> photo with this one.
> 
> On Mar 23, 2016, at 10:11 AM, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
> 
>> Jerry -
>> 
>> Yes, the photo came through and is very helpful.
>> 
>> Again, thank you so much for your knowledge and assistance!  I am also of
>> the opinion that tight wrapping is best, at least with the apples and pears
>> with which I have the most practice/experience.  In my opinion, my plum
>> grafts are wrapped sufficiently tightly; they're just not as tight as I
>> would have wrapped an apple or pear, as I was concerned my usual
>> super-tight wrapping last year might have been part of the cause of last
>> year's plum graft failures ;)
>> 
>> Your explanation of how to properly use parafilm should also be extremely
>> helpful for others who may be new to using it.  Crazing (the technical term
>> for polymer chain alignment during elongation, if I'm correctly remembering
>> my schooling) is a necessary ingredient in parafilm's proper use, and is
>> one of those things you have to have someone explain or show you!
>> 
>> -Pete
>> 
>> 
>> Pete Chrisbacher
>> 
>> On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 8:24 AM, Jerry Lehman <jwlehmantree@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> On 3/23/2016 7:36 AM, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thank you both, gentlemen, for your helpful advice!  I've heard
>>> anecdotally that grafting plums is possible (and one of the guys at the
>>> BYFG grafting meeting told me "ALL my plum grafts took last year!  I just
>>> did normal grafts!" without providing any helpful details).
>>> 
>>> I grafted three last night (splice) on actively growing 1 YO in-ground
>>> rootstock with dime-size leaves.  Most of the leaves were high up the
>>> leader, so they ended up getting cut off.  I'm assuming (hoping) the roots
>>> will just continue pushing into the scion now if my grafts are any good.  
>>> I
>>> wrapped tightly but not excessively with a budding rubber, then parafilm,
>>> including a single-wrap covering of the lowest scion bud to keep it from
>>> drying out (2 buds on each scion).  Tree-cote to seal the exposed scion 
>>> cut.
>>> 
>>> Pete,
>>> 
>>> Thank you Fluffy for your concurrence. Let me add 2 more " by the ways,"
>>> and an observation.
>>> 
>>> Storing cherry scion's in a normal refrigeration for any length of time
>>> can lead to a problem. 40° to 45° is too warm, it approximates the outdoor
>>> temperature when cherry flower buds become active. Likewise they will do
>>> that in the refrigerator at those temperatures and will be too active when
>>> grafting reducing the success rate. Store cherry scion wood as close to 
>>> the
>>> freezing temperature as you can to keep it fully dormant. My scion storage
>>> refrigerator has been modified and it will actually frost in the bottom
>>> where the coldest air settles and a little frost will not hurt a fully
>>> dormant piece of scion wood. At least I have never detected damage to 
>>> scion
>>> wood that has been lightly frosted. I would not stored in a deep-freeze
>>> where the temperature can get down to near 0 because if any activity had
>>> begun in the scion wood, the cells filling with water, the cells could
>>> burst damaging the wood.
>>> 
>>> I have often grafted using the splice graft or machine graft and pulled
>>> the rubber band as tight as I can. You would think it could constrict the
>>> activity but certainly in persimmon and pawpaw I've not seen a problem. It
>>> will girdle the graft sooner because there is less elasticity left for
>>> expansion. As soon as the graft has calloused and begun growth simply cut
>>> the rubber band in one or 2 places and there is no need to remove it as 
>>> now
>>> the expanding calloused area is not restricted. Again I cover the entire
>>> scion wood starting below the graph point with Parafilm, no need to fool
>>> around with wax or anything else. Simply expand (stretch it out
>>> approximately double length) the Parafilm start below the graft union keep
>>> wrapping all the way up and pitch it off above the scion or continue back
>>> down until you run out of Parafilm. Anything that I have ever grafted
>>> pushes right through it, and I've made many many grafts of many species.
>>> 
>>> In my opinion wrapping tightly is important. I believe the 2 cambium
>>> layers must be pulled and held together in order to callous, especially in
>>> hardwood such as nut trees which would include harder wood of the plum
>>> family. Plum wood is much more dense than cherry. I've had people tell me
>>> they have successfully grafted using masking tape to hold the understock
>>> and scion together and I have no doubt that can work. But I firmly believe
>>> to increase your success percentage, wrap the graft union tight.      
>>> Jerry
>>> 
>>> A persimmon button pushing through Parafilm.
>>> 
>>> As IBIBLIO often sees pictures as spam ( numerous times I've been removed
>>> from the list for sending pictures) and IBIBLIO doesn't include the sender
>>> I have no way of knowing if this was passed through and if I'm still
>>> allowed on the net. Would someone let me know via direct email that the
>>> picture came through.
>>> 
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