North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>]

I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference what rootstock you put
them on- apricots are fragile things in the east.  No one knows why they
die or when they will die.  They may remain hardy for a decade and then for
no apparent reason suffer cambium death.  Last winter was mild and there
were no crazy fluctuations in temps going into spring but I lost more trees
than any previous season.  I searched for answers but found none.

It wasn't at just one site but at 4 or 5, including what should have been
ideal places, either on top of a gentle hill in Westchester or on the edge
of the Hudson river a few miles up.  None of the apricot trees on my own
property died and it is not a good site for frost protection- I suffer
frost damage when most of my clients sites are immune.

I'm not asking for ideas- I think I've probably covered the bases-
certainly Robert Purvis couldn't help.  In the dry west, apricot trees are
as tough as they come and they do great in the high desert where temps
fluctuate wildly.  They may not always have fruit but they can live a very,
very long time.  I reckon is has something to do with the humidity and too
much water in their cells here.

On my property Alfred works great with a little scab control and Orangered
looks very promising.   In Westchester, most sites, the Harrow varieties do
just fine with Hargrand being he toughest and best Har that I've tried.
I'm hoping for good things from Tomcot as a bit south of me growers rave.
Earlyblush is also promising.

Just expect to have to replace them now and again.