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[Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>]

Caren, lime-sulphur is simply lime plus sulphur which makes a liquid.  
Sulphur is just elemental sulphur, either it is made flowable by putting in 
some kind of liquid carrier, or it is a micronized powder of a form that will 
dissolve in water.  Standard garden sulphur will not dissolve.  They are 
somewhat similar in what they treat; lime-sulphur enters the tissues a bit 
and so is better for dormant sprays and after a rain to eradicate.  Sulphur 
is on the surface only and is better at keeping bad guys from getting in to 
begin with.  I usually spray only l/s dormant and sulphur in growing season 
but l/s also can work well in growing season (make sure to use the lower dose 
on the label for actively growing trees).

If your trees are dormant you can spray lime-sulphur together with oil in one 
spray.  If there are any leaves don't mix them, it will burn the leaves.

Scott

On Apr 2, 2012, at 10:43 AM, Caren Kirk wrote:

>  Thanks Scott. Excuse my ignorance but what's the difference between 
> sulphur and lime sulphur sprays? I have both but what I did yesterday 
> was lime sulphur. I do not have any sticking agents, will have to see if 
> I can get hold of one.
> 
> Can I spray dormant oil now or will I have to wait? Can I mix the 
> sulphur with that?
> 
> By the way, despite the crazy weather we still have not had bud break up 
> here.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Caren.
> 
> On 4/2/2012 8:39 AM, Scott Smith wrote:
>> Caren, I would respray that one, maybe waiting a week or so since it did 
>> have some effect and you can thus cover a longer period.  It does help to 
>> have a disease spray on before a rain since rain will produce new spores 
>> which will wake up in a very unwelcome environment.  The standard saying 
>> is to use sulphur before a rain and lime-sulphur after; the l/s penetrates 
>> the leaf surface a bit and can get any freshly growing fungi.  When you 
>> spray sulphur (not lime sulphur) use a sticker, you can keep much of it on 
>> through a light rain.  I use nufilm-17 with every sulphur spray I do.
>> 
>> I don't know why it states not to spray sulphur on apricots - maybe some 
>> varieties are susceptible.  I was not spraying sulphur on my cots until a 
>> few years ago when I heard others were using it, and since then I have 
>> laid on the sulphur and not noticed any problems.  I have over a dozen 
>> varieties so if there are any susceptible varieties it is not that common. 
>>  One guess I had was some apricots are highly prone to brown rot shoot 
>> blight and perhaps someone mistakenly thought that was caused by the 
>> sulphur.     I did notice a bit of leaf browning on hot days so that could 
>> be another potential reason; it was so minor that it was almost not 
>> noticeable.  Sulphur is very useful for preventing peach scab on apricots, 
>> it is a big problem on Puget Gold and a few other varieties.  So it is 
>> probably OK to use.
>> 
>> Scott
>> 
>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:55 AM, Caren Kirk wrote:
>> 
>>>  Trying to be efficient I sprayed my fruit trees yesterday morning with
>>> lime sulphur at around 11am. By 2pm it ahd started drizzling and then it
>>> really rained and then it snowed.
>>> 
>>> How long does sulphur need to stay on the tree to be effective? Will I
>>> need to respray everything?
>>> 
>>> Of course today is going to beautiful.
>>> 
>>> Also, I bought some new sulphur and  it said not to use it on apricots.
>>> Is this true? It was not mentioned on my last bottle of sulphur.  How
>>> then should I protect my apricot from Brown rot present on other prunus
>>> in the orchard? Or is apricot considerably less susceptible?
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Caren Kirk
>>> St. Jerome, QC
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