North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Jackie <jakuehn@verizon.net>]

Many thanks to all who have submitted articles for the upcoming fall print 
issue of Pomona. As of now, the journal will be about 30 pages long, and 
that's pretty slim. So here's a last call for anything you can send me about 
fruit growing: good experiences, bad experiences, learning experiences. Just 
email me at jakuehn@verizon.net.

Thanks so much.

Jacquelyn A. Kuehn

pennsacreskitchen.net
wmugradio.org




On Aug 20, 2011, at 12:01 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. When to harvest pears: Bosc, Asian, Bartlet (James A Cooper)
>   2. Re: Transplanting Trees and Shrubs (david.maxwell@dal.ca)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 18:04:44 +0000
> From: James A Cooper <JCooper@lewistonschools.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] When to harvest pears: Bosc, Asian, Bartlet
> To: "nafex@lists.ibiblio.org" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
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> <21168CAF63985A4BA58769D95E7B8F83078E8ADD@Exchange.lewistonschools.net>
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> 
> When to harvest pears such as Bosc. We have a Golden Russet Bosc and the 
> past 2 years we did not do best. So what are your suggestions? When to pick 
> and then to refrigerate or not until; and then what to do until they fully 
> ripen?
> 
> We also have an Asian and it is easy with a flashlight, when it is ripe the 
> fruit will glow, the light traveling through the fruit easy at dark. The 
> unripe will be much more dense.
> 
> The Bartlet pears are often picked by now but ours are still on the tree in 
> the Pacific NW. We will wait until the first fruit to fall that are full 
> size but have a bug in them. These will be starting to turn yellow and are 
> good to eat with trimming. The rest of the fruit are still green but are 
> beginning to change from a darker green to a lighter?
> 
> Jim
> zone 6 N. Idaho
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 22:11:54 -0300
> From: david.maxwell@dal.ca
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Transplanting Trees and Shrubs
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4E4F09DA.15192.2CF1B1C@david.maxwell.dal.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII
> 
> Just a word of clarification: there are two distinct kinds of voles - pine 
> voles and meadow 
> voles.  The former live underground and dine on the roots of your trees; 
> the latter run in very 
> shallow runways or tall grass, and eat seeds - and the bark of your trees 
> when they can't get 
> better fare, frequently under cover of the snow.  Tree guards, tubes, etc. 
> afford protection 
> against the meadow voles, but the pine voles are much more difficult to 
> manage.  (I pour 
> poison bait down the holes near the trunk.  One has to go back every day or 
> two to add more 
> until the entire colony has been exterminated.  The product I use is called 
> Gopher Doom, but 
> any anticoagulant based product should work.  If I could get it in Canada, 
> I would use a 
> product with vitamin D in preference, because it carries no risk of 
> secondary poisoning.[It is 
> available in the States].  Other than poison bait in the Fall, I rely on a 
> large population of 
> garter snakes in the orchard to try to control them the rest of the year.)
> 
>> 
>> My losses from the voles here come from them eating all the roots off.
>> I've had tree where above the ground the tree is whole.  The only
>> problem you see during the winter time is that the tree is tipped over
>> unless it is staked. I've had it where I pull the tree out of the
>> ground and it is like the tree was put into a pencil sharpener.  All
>> the roots have been chewed off.  Are you saying all your chews are
>> above ground?  I've had some chews above ground but 95-99% are below
>> ground level.
>> 
>> Bob
>> Western Washington
> 
> 
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> End of nafex Digest, Vol 103, Issue 18
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