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[tanis cuff <tanistanis@hotmail.com>]

1-- These notes refer to late spring grafting onto rootstocks in nursery rows.
 
This year I had more failed grafts and overall less growth than in recent 
years passed.  The only reason I can figure is that the rootstocks, all in 
nursery rows last year, didn't get much fertilizer.  Also, altho last summer 
had adequate rains, the autumn was droughty, and I probably didn't irrigate 
enough.  I don't fertilize much anyway, so I bet the key issue was the 
drought autumn.
 
The other ingredient was a longer than usual winter.  I try to work with 
hardier rootstocks, but I have to wonder if '10/'11 wasn't a little too much 
winter.
 
Some better than expected growth was on a poorly timed (I thought) batch of 
grafts.  We had some temperatures above 90 degrees soon after some grafting, 
enought that I didn't see how the callus tissue & further mending could 
happen.  But that batch grew as well or better than the others.
 
 
2-- A couple general notes about rootstocks.
 
In the past there has been some discussion about whether to cut off all 
below-graft growth, or to leave branches on to feed the roots until the 
topwork is doing that job.  After following the latter philosophy for too 
long, my current 2-cents is for the prior.  The only advantage I can see to 
leaving below-graft growth is to compare a cultivar's compatability with 
different rootstocks: there will tend to be more below-graft growth on the 
less compatible, assuming all else equal.
 
I'm seeing poor growth in EMLA7-rooted trees when set into a landscape.  They 
do better under proper orchard management, than in a yard setting where weeds 
or lawn compete with the EMLA7 roots.
 
Tanis Cuff
s.WI, z4-5
light soils