North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Megan Kranz McGuire <mcgu0139@umn.edu>]

I don't know whether uprightness is important for kiwis (it is for some 
plants). I also don't know whether you can see leaf scars on kiwi, but if 
you can, this would help determine directionality. The leaf scar would be 
below the new bud, new buds form above last year's leaf. For example, look 
at this image:

http://www2.una.edu/pdavis/images/trees/twigs/linbencm.jpg

The half-circle shape is the scar from where a leaf petiole had been 
attatched. Leaf scar shapes vary from plant to plant, however, and can be 
quite small.


On Apr 2 2008, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: Virus Warning (David.Maxwell@dal.ca)
>   2. kiwi cuttings?which end is up? (mIEKAL aND)
>   3. Re: patio tomatoes (Regina M. Kreger)
>   4. Re: kiwi cuttings-which end is up? (Mark & Helen Angermayer)
>   5. Re: patio tomatoes (Robert C. Mullins)
>   6. Cut down apples? (Mark Dorogi)
>   7. Re: Cut down apples? (Douglas Woodard)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 16:42:13 -0400
> From: David.Maxwell@dal.ca
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Virus Warning
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>,
>         Apple-Crop <apple-crop@virtualorchard.net>
> Message-ID: <47F3B765.29139.39DD3B@localhost>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Well, sort of.... There is a genuine worm which has been circulating 
> since 2006, called the Warezov.W worm, and it does do nasty things. But, 
> it is not new, and it is detected by virus scanning software. (To confirm 
> what I am saying, go look at Snopes directly. [I didn't actually use the 
> URL below, but went in directly with the URL www.snopes.com, and followed 
> it from there]. The advice not to open attachments from sources you don't 
> know is still valid. The message carying this worm does have the header 
> "Mail Server Report", and you should be alerted to the fact that it isn't 
> legit by the errors in English in the message. But, really, it isn't the 
> end of the world, it is not a new strain, and the virus checkers will 
> recognise it.
>
> On 2 Apr 2008 at 10:53, dmnorton@royaloakfarmorchard.com wrote:
>
> > This information arrived to me this morning, direct from both Microsoft 
> > and Norton. The Warezov.W virus has a new strain that is so new the 
> > virus scan software has not been able to pick it up yet to protect your 
> > PC. You may receive an apparently harmless e-mail titled "Mail Server 
> > Report"
> >
> > If you open either file, a message will appear on your screen saying:
> > 'It is too late now, your life is no longer beautiful.'
> >
> > Subsequently you will LOSE EVERYTHING IN YOUR PC, And the person who 
> > sent it to you will gain access to your name, e-mail and password.
> >
> > This is a new virus which started to circulate on Saturday afternoon. 
> > AOL has already confirmed the severity, and the anti virus software out 
> > there is not yet capable of destroying it.
> >
> > The virus has been created by a hacker who calls himself 'life owner'.
> >
> > THIS HAS ALSO BEEN CONFIRMED BY SNOPES
> >
> > http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/mailserver.asp
> >
> > Since we use e-mail to communicate through NAFEX and APPLE-CROPI felt 
> > it a good idea to pass this information on.
> >
> >
> > Dennis Norton
> > Royal Oak Farm Orchard
> > http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com
> > http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com
> > http://www.revivalhymn.com
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 16:38:00 -0500
> From: mIEKAL aND <dtv@mwt.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] kiwi cuttings?which end is up?
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <17E0BFB9-A778-465C-9878-46C139C1A1B0@mwt.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
> I just received a bunch of kiwi cuttings from UC-San Diego &  
> wondering if it matters which end is up when planting?  The bottom is  
> not marked & they're not necessarily thicker on one end.  I was  
> thinking maybe the buds should point up, but looking at my plants  
> growing outside, the buds point in both directions (to be more  
> specific they point in the direction of the sun no matter which  
> direction the vines are headed).  Any quick responses appreciated as  
> I've got everything all laid out to pot up.
>
> ~mIEKAL
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 18:58:59 -0400
> From: "Regina M. Kreger" <regina@kreger.net>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] patio tomatoes
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <47F40FB3.3030104@kreger.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Check out www.victoryseeds.com , and look for "dwarf" and "tree-type" 
> tomatoes.  They are dwarf plants, upright without staking, and many of 
> them keep producing like an indeterminate.  The ones they carry are 
> pretty good tomatoes, too.
>
> Erdman, James wrote:
> > My 90 year old mother-in-law lives in an apartment in a small town now,
> > after having a big garden for most of her life.  She grows tomatoes,
> > peppers, lettuce, beans, and cucumbers in pots and buckets on her little
> > deck at the apartment.  I have been starting some Silvery Fir Tree
> > tomatoes for her, and growing a few myself in recent years.  The seed
> > came from the Seed Saver's catalog.  The tomatoes are small, and the
> > plants only grow 24 to 30" high and do well in pots.  Some of the cherry
> > tomatoes are determinate too, and often are sold in garden centers in
> > pots for pot culture.  It always seems to me, though, that the best
> > tasting tomatoes are on vines that sprawl all over the garden.
> >
> > Jim, in Menomonie, WI
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
> > [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ginda Fisher
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:31 PM
> > To: NAFEX Fruit Explorers
> > Subject: [NAFEX] patio tomatoes
> >
> > Hey, tomatoes are fruit. . .
> >
> > I know a man who usually plants a large garden, but who is very ill,  
> > and will not be able to do that this year.  I would like to get him a  
> > patio tomato plant or two.  Does anyone have advice re:
> >
> > Good tasting patio tomatoes?
> > Good sources for them?
> > Tips on planting, etc., to keep it as low-effort as possible?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ginda
> >
> >
> >   
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 18:22:20 -0600
> From: "Mark & Helen Angermayer" <hangermayer@isp.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] kiwi cuttings-which end is up?
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <001201c89520$de2de160$28c3490c@computer5>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Don't know if it matters which end is up for planting, but sometimes people
> will mark the top end by using an angle cut, and the bottom end by using a
> flat cut.  Any chance they marked them that way?
>
> Mark
> KS
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "mIEKAL aND" <dtv@mwt.net>
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 3:38 PM
> Subject: [NAFEX] kiwi cuttings-which end is up?
>
>
> > I just received a bunch of kiwi cuttings from UC-San Diego &
> > wondering if it matters which end is up when planting?  The bottom is
> > not marked & they're not necessarily thicker on one end.  I was
> > thinking maybe the buds should point up, but looking at my plants
> > growing outside, the buds point in both directions (to be more
> > specific they point in the direction of the sun no matter which
> > direction the vines are headed).  Any quick responses appreciated as
> > I've got everything all laid out to pot up.
> >
> > ~mIEKAL
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.4/1355 - Release Date: 4/1/08
> 5:37 PM
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 19:28:58 -0600
> From: "Robert C. Mullins" <mullins@gaelicmysts.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] patio tomatoes
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <47F432DA.6060709@gaelicmysts.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Black Krim, and Sabre Ukrainian are my personal favorites.  And they are 
> heirlooms.
>
>
> -rob
>
>
>
> Ginda Fisher wrote:
> > Hey, tomatoes are fruit. . .
> >
> > I know a man who usually plants a large garden, but who is very ill,  
> > and will not be able to do that this year.  I would like to get him a  
> > patio tomato plant or two.  Does anyone have advice re:
> >
> > Good tasting patio tomatoes?
> > Good sources for them?
> > Tips on planting, etc., to keep it as low-effort as possible?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ginda
> > _______________________________________________
> > nafex mailing list 
> > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> >
> > Reproduction of list messages or archives is not allowed. This includes 
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> >   
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 22:21:13 -0400
> From: "Mark Dorogi" <mddorogi@comcast.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Cut down apples?
> To: "'North American Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <005b01c89531$63599310$6401a8c0@Mark>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="US-ASCII"
>
> My 10-tree orchard is around seven years old now.  Some trees just seem to
> either not produce well or to be very bug prone, so I'm thinking of cutting
> some down and replacing them with (fewer of) something else.
>
> However, it is a bit hard to cut down trees when they are getting
> nice-sized, after years of pruning, shaping, and maintenance.  Maybe I
> haven't given them a long enough chance.
>
> The candidates for the axe are:
> - Tompkins King: too much water core
> - Swaar: late ripening, hard to keep bug free that long, erratic producer
> - Mother: I have two, neither produce really well, they flower later than
> everything else
> - Ashmead's Kernel: produces well, but the bugs really go after this one
> making it hard to get anything, late ripening.
>
> The ones that seem to be worth the trouble are Lymans Large Summer, Cox's 
> Orange Pippin, Kerry Pippen, Calville Blanc d'Hiver, and Esopus 
> Spitzenberg.
>
> So I'm trying to bring myself to chop some down and replace with one or two
> conventional types - Braeburn and Honeycrisp were on my short list - and
> wait another bunch of years to see if they work out any better.
>
> I can't see putting work into trees that for whatever reason don't 
> produce well, but I'm also unsure whether I'll get better results with 
> replacements.
>
>
> I'd appreciate any advice!
>
>
> Mark
> SE Michigan
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:10 -0400
> From: Douglas Woodard <dwoodard@becon.org>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Cut down apples?
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <47F45596.3010708@becon.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Mark, why don't you tell us what kind of bugs go after the Swaar and the 
> Ashmead's Kernel, and what countermeasures you have been trying.
>
> Perhaps list members could make suggestions as to cultivars that could 
> be grafted into the Mother trees to blossom with them.
>
> Mark, if you really want to change cultivars maybe you could graft your 
> old trees over to new cultivars.
>
> Of old, good-quality cultivars, Adam's Pearmain, Jefferis, Ribston and 
> Kidd's Orange Red are said to be relatively trouble-free, although I 
> have no personal experience with them
>
> Doug Woodard
> St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
>
>
> Mark Dorogi wrote:
> > My 10-tree orchard is around seven years old now. Some trees just seem 
> > to either not produce well or to be very bug prone, so I'm thinking of 
> > cutting some down and replacing them with (fewer of) something else.
> >
> > However, it is a bit hard to cut down trees when they are getting
> > nice-sized, after years of pruning, shaping, and maintenance.  Maybe I
> > haven't given them a long enough chance.
> >
> > The candidates for the axe are:
> > - Tompkins King: too much water core
> > - Swaar: late ripening, hard to keep bug free that long, erratic producer
> > - Mother: I have two, neither produce really well, they flower later than
> > everything else
> > - Ashmead's Kernel: produces well, but the bugs really go after this one
> > making it hard to get anything, late ripening.
> >
> > The ones that seem to be worth the trouble are Lymans Large Summer, 
> > Cox's Orange Pippin, Kerry Pippen, Calville Blanc d'Hiver, and Esopus 
> > Spitzenberg.
> >
> > So I'm trying to bring myself to chop some down and replace with one or 
> > two conventional types - Braeburn and Honeycrisp were on my short list - 
> > and wait another bunch of years to see if they work out any better.
> >
> > I can't see putting work into trees that for whatever reason don't 
> > produce well, but I'm also unsure whether I'll get better results with 
> > replacements.
> >
> >
> > I'd appreciate any advice!
> >
> >
> > Mark
> > SE Michigan
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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