North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[John S <swim_at_svc@yahoo.com>]

Neil, Helping out here.  I can't speak for Jollico, but my Pioneer never fruited until I added another variety for pollination.  Golden Glory seems to be a good pollinator for me, as fruit production jumped for me the year following the addition of this variety to my collection and this variety seems to be very common in the nurseries.  You may want to consider it if you find you need a pollinator.  Fruit is small but very productive.

John

Neil T Lewis <lewisn@georgetown.edu> wrote:

Hans,

Hidden Springs nursery sells Jolico. I recently bought two trees from them. I gather that cornus mas is generally self-fertile, but I have read that Jolico is not. Do you know anything about this?

Neil

(This is my first post. I am a fruit tree newbie, but have been reading this list for the last year and find it extremely helpful.)

----- Original Message -----
From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
Date: Sunday, October 7, 2007 9:46 am
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 57, Issue 18

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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Illinois Everbearing (William C. Garthright)
> 2. Re: Illinois Everbearing (William C. Garthright)
> 3. Illinois Everbearing fruit (Jim Fruth)
> 4. Re: Bletting (Lon J. Rombough)
> 5. What's in your fertilizer? (Jim Fruth)
> 6. Re: Bletting (hans brinkmann)
> 7. C. Mas 'Jolico' (John S)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 11:14:34 -0500
> From: "William C. Garthright"
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Message-ID: <4707B46A.5000400@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
> > But, to me, that's one of its endearing features, in addition to
> its heavy production of extremely tasty berries. You can plant a
> small specimen, and in a very short timeframe, you'll have a nice,
> large productive tree.
> >
>
>
> Well, I'm sure it's an endearing feature if you have room for it.
> In my
> case, I'm trying to cram as many different kinds of fruit as
> possible
> into my backyard. Heh, heh. Still, this is at the NW corner of my
> lot,
> near the street and the alley, so I can manage a large tree there,
> if I
> have to. I'm going to try to keep it reasonably small, though, so I
> guess I'll keep trying to train the firehose!
>
> :-)
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> I am a biologist. Like it or not, the Republican party is being led
> by
> religious zealots who are anti-biology, who publicly and vigorously
> oppose reason and knowledge and evidence in my field of study. - PZ
> Myers
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 11:45:37 -0500
> From: "William C. Garthright"
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Message-ID: <4707BBB1.9050507@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
> > When you summer prune, you are probably pruning off buds in which
> flowers that will bloom the following year have already been
> initiated. ... He says it takes 50 days for the mulberry tree to
> initiate floral primordia. I do not know, however, whether the
> tree maintains this ability throughout the growing season.
>
>
> Thanks for the link, Sam. I see that the pruning there is somewhat
> like
> what I had in mind, as far as keeping the tree as a bushy stump (a
> higher stump, in my case, since the roots are white mulberry).
> However,
> the focus of this book is on the production of leaves, not fruit,
> apparently.
>
> I just planted my tree this spring, but I do have some green
> mulberries
> on it. Not too many, and of course it's very late in the year, but
> they
> are on this year's growth. That's why I was hoping to be able to
> prune
> heavily in the spring and still get berries. I wouldn't have to
> worry
> about summer pruning, if I just cut the whole thing back to a stump
> every spring. However, if the buds are initiated the year before,
> that
> won't work.
>
> Well, this is one tree with which I feel I can really experiment.
> I'm
> going to plant a Geraldi Dwarf Mulberry next spring, so if I do
> something really unforgivable with this one (I almost have,
> already), I
> can just start over. For some reason, I don't feel that way about
> the
> rest of my fruit trees, despite the fact that I'll be buried in
> fruit if
> all of them do survive and produce. :-D
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Bill
> Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
>
> --
> The factory of the future will have only two employees, a man and a
> dog.
> The man will be there to feed the dog. The dog will be there to
> keep the
> man from touching the equipment. - Warren G. Bennis
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 12:10:58 -0500
> From: "Jim Fruth"
> Subject: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing fruit
> To: "NAFEX"
> Message-ID: <004a01c8083b$dea7f120$3679de42@ibma20plaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Betsy Hilborn asked: "Everyone talks about how heavily this tree
> bears
> fruit, however I have
> had a different experience. I purchased an Illinois Everbearing
> from Stark
> Brothers in spring 2003.
> The tree now has a trunk of about 5" diameter; I have summer pruned it
> to keep it as a 12' wide, 10' tall heavily branched bushy tree.
> DuringJune- August , I find 3-5 ripe fruits on it per week. I do
> not consider
> this heavy bearing, although I assume that I must lose
> some whole fruits to birds. What do people mean by fruiting
> heavily. Is my
> experience typical?"
>
> Betsy,
> My Illinois Everbearing bear fruit at every leaf axil. The
> fruit goes
> from green to red to black often in less than two days. I have
> assumed that
> red was ripe and black was overripe (Black has the most/best
> flavor). A
> gentle breeze will knock of the black fruits and a stronger wind
> will knock
> off the red ones. Alot more fruit falls on the ground than what
> amount the
> birds eat. If I don't harvest fruit every day,or oftener, I don't
> get much.
> We planted the trees to make jelly so I'm planning something
> similar to an
> upside-down umbrella made of veil netting or shade cloth to catch
> the fruit
> before the mice get it.
>
> Now for questions: All of my Mulberry fruit is seedless which
> is, I'm
> assuming, the reason it falls off so readily. Does seeded Mulberry
> fruit
> hang on longer? My Mulberry fruits measure about 1/4"x 1". Is
> seeded
> Mulberry larger?
>
> Jim Fruth
> Brambleberry Farm
> Pequot Lakes, MN 56472
> For jams, jellies & syrups:
> www.bberryfarm.com
> (877)265-6856 [Store]
> (218)831-7018 [My Cell]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:34:03 -0700
> From: "Lon J. Rombough"
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bletting
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars in
> a
> bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark,
> reasonably humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they
> blet in
> a group they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up
> rather
> than blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in
> leaves
> would do the same thing.
> -Lon Rombough
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
> http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers
> Association
> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
>
> On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> On a related topic...
> I would like to here some different methods of bletting from
> people. I
> know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing. I
> can
> imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse
> problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first?? ...a 3% bleach or
> distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:57:52 -0500
> From: "Jim Fruth"
> Subject: [NAFEX] What's in your fertilizer?
> To: "NAFEX"
> Message-ID: <012b01c8084a$cd8cd4a0$3679de42@ibma20plaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Science News Online, Sept. 22, 2007
> (http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20070922/note15.asp)
>
> Web Special: You fertilized with what?
>
> Janet Raloff
>
> Talk about your all-natural fertilizer with a high yuck factor.
> Researchersin Finland have just published results of a study
> showing that farmers can
> substitute human urine for conventional fertilizer and get a notable
> increase in cabbage yields. Moreover, the crop's taste was at least as
> acceptable as that of the greens fertilized conventionally.
>
> Surendra K. Pradhan of the University of Kuopio and his colleagues
> grewcabbages using a conventional fertilizer, human urine that had
> been stored
> for 6 months, or no soil amendments at all. In an upcoming issue of
> theJournal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, the researchers
> report that
> urine treatment yielded cabbages that were bigger and carried fewer
> germsthan either other approach yielded.
>
> Although the nutrient content of urine depends on what someone has
> eaten,analyses of the urine used in these experiments showed that
> its nitrogen,
> phosphorus, and potassium content was comparable to that of commercial
> fertilizer.
>
> Sauerkraut made from cabbages cultivated in the three ways had
> slightlydifferent flavors, according to taste panelists, but were
> equally well
> liked.
>
> Urine collected from one individual over the course of a year could
> fertilize a 90-square-meter plot, yielding more than 160 cabbages,
> the team
> calculates. The data indicate that a urine-treated plot would yield 64
> kilograms more cabbage than one fertilized conventionally, and 256
> kg more
> than an unfertilized crop would.
>
> Earlier this year, the Kuopio scientists reported that cucumbers
> similarlybenefit from the use of urine over conventional fertilizer.
>
> __._,_.___
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 13:53:07 +0200
> From: hans brinkmann
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bletting
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Message-ID: <4708C8A3.8070206@t-online.de>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Hallo Lon, hallo Rob,
>
> thank you very much!
> I did not know Pseudocydonia sinensis! Is the hardiness of 5 true?
> E.g. there is one Cydonia ('Robusta') at Germany which is called
> fireblight resistant.
> Cornus mas 'Jolico' is e.g. also very nice directly from the tree,
> but
> fully ripe.
>
> I thought bletting has a connection with the Phenole- resp.
> Tannin-content...?
> E.g. some Medlars have a Tannin content of 0,06%.
> They used Medlars as Marmelade, Jelly, cooked, fresh, for Juice,
> Wine,
> Liquor ...
> Also to increase fruit-wines quality because of Tannin.
> Even in ancient times Medlars were kept into wine diluted with
> water and
> into honey.
> At the middleage some lonely monks were "eating only medlars and
> nuts".At Bulgaria they are put into vinegar or vinegar-sugar
> solution and sold
> as 'Mushmulnica'.
> Or roasted with butter, wine and sugar.
> I like to eat also very few unbletted fruit fresh from the tree.
> Bletting was done in very different ways:
> Just keeping them without touching at the air on boards or stringed
> at a
> cord.
> Or inside sawdust or straw."Writers and medlars are the best after
> laying on (in) straw"!
>
> ciao
> hans
>
>
> Lon J. Rombough schrieb:
>
> > The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars
> in a
> > bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark,
> reasonably
> > humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they blet in a
> group
> > they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up rather
> than
> > blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in leaves
> would
> > do the same thing.
> > -Lon Rombough
> > Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, *The Grape Grower, *at
> > http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers
> Association
> > "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> > For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> > For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
> >
> > On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> > On a related topic...
> > I would like to here some different methods of bletting from
> people. I
> > know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing.
> I can
> > imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse
> > problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first? ...a 3% bleach or
> > distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 06:46:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: John S
> Subject: [NAFEX] C. Mas 'Jolico'
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Message-ID: <368796.31427.qm@web39101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hans,
>
> I am not sure where you are located, but do you know of any
> sources of 'Jolico' in the US?
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> hans brinkmann wrote:
> Hallo Lon, hallo Rob,
>
> thank you very much!
> I did not know Pseudocydonia sinensis! Is the hardiness of 5 true?
> E.g. there is one Cydonia ('Robusta') at Germany which is called
> fireblight resistant.
> Cornus mas 'Jolico' is e.g. also very nice directly from the tree,
> but
> fully ripe.
>
> I thought bletting has a connection with the Phenole- resp.
> Tannin-content...?
> E.g. some Medlars have a Tannin content of 0,06%.
> They used Medlars as Marmelade, Jelly, cooked, fresh, for Juice,
> Wine,
> Liquor ...
> Also to increase fruit-wines quality because of Tannin.
> Even in ancient times Medlars were kept into wine diluted with
> water and
> into honey.
> At the middleage some lonely monks were "eating only medlars and
> nuts".At Bulgaria they are put into vinegar or vinegar-sugar
> solution and sold
> as 'Mushmulnica'.
> Or roasted with butter, wine and sugar.
> I like to eat also very few unbletted fruit fresh from the tree.
> Bletting was done in very different ways:
> Just keeping them without touching at the air on boards or stringed
> at a
> cord.
> Or inside sawdust or straw."Writers and medlars are the best after
> laying on (in) straw"!
>
> ciao
> hans
>
>
> Lon J. Rombough schrieb:
>
> > The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars
> in a
> > bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark,
> reasonably
> > humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they blet in a
> group
> > they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up rather
> than
> > blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in leaves
> would
> > do the same thing.
> > -Lon Rombough
> > Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, *The Grape Grower, *at
> > http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers
> Association
> > "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> > For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> > For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
> >
> > On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> > On a related topic...
> > I would like to here some different methods of bletting from
> people. I
> > know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing.
> I can
> > imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse
> > problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first? ...a 3% bleach or
> > distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >nafex mailing list
> >nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> >
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> >This includes distribution on other email lists or reproduction on
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> >Permission to reproduce is NEVER granted, so don't claim you have
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> >No exceptions.
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> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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> 03.10.2007 20:22
> >
> >
>
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