North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Neil T Lewis <lewisn@georgetown.edu>]

Hans,

Hidden Springs nursery sells Jolico. I recently bought two trees from them.  
I gather that cornus mas is generally self-fertile, but I have read that 
Jolico is not. Do you know anything about this?

Neil

(This is my first post. I am a fruit tree newbie, but have been reading this 
list for the last year and find it extremely helpful.)

----- Original Message -----
From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
Date: Sunday, October 7, 2007 9:46 am
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 57, Issue 18

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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Illinois Everbearing (William C. Garthright)
>   2. Re: Illinois Everbearing (William C. Garthright)
>   3. Illinois Everbearing fruit (Jim Fruth)
>   4. Re: Bletting (Lon J. Rombough)
>   5. What's in your fertilizer? (Jim Fruth)
>   6. Re: Bletting (hans brinkmann)
>   7. C. Mas 'Jolico' (John S)
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 11:14:34 -0500
> From: "William C. Garthright" <billg@inebraska.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4707B46A.5000400@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> 
> > But, to me, that's one of its endearing features, in addition to 
> its heavy production of extremely tasty berries.  You can plant a 
> small specimen, and in a very short timeframe, you'll have a nice, 
> large productive tree.
> >   
> 
> 
> Well, I'm sure it's an endearing feature if you have room for it. 
> In my 
> case, I'm trying to cram as many different kinds of fruit as 
> possible 
> into my backyard. Heh, heh. Still, this is at the NW corner of my 
> lot, 
> near the street and the alley, so I can manage a large tree there, 
> if I 
> have to. I'm going to try to keep it reasonably small, though, so I 
> guess I'll keep trying to train the firehose!
> 
> :-)
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> I am a biologist. Like it or not, the Republican party is being led 
> by 
> religious zealots who are anti-biology, who publicly and vigorously 
> oppose reason and knowledge and evidence in my field of study. - PZ 
> Myers
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 11:45:37 -0500
> From: "William C. Garthright" <billg@inebraska.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4707BBB1.9050507@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> 
> > When you summer prune, you are probably pruning off buds in which 
> flowers that will bloom the following year have already been 
> initiated. ... He says it takes 50 days for the mulberry tree to 
> initiate floral primordia.  I do not know, however, whether the 
> tree maintains this ability throughout the growing season.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link, Sam. I see that the pruning there is somewhat 
> like 
> what I had in mind, as far as keeping the tree as a bushy stump (a 
> higher stump, in my case, since the roots are white mulberry). 
> However, 
> the focus of this book is on the production of leaves, not fruit, 
> apparently.
> 
> I just planted my tree this spring, but I do have some green 
> mulberries 
> on it. Not too many, and of course it's very late in the year, but 
> they 
> are on this year's growth. That's why I was hoping to be able to 
> prune 
> heavily in the spring and still get berries. I wouldn't have to 
> worry 
> about summer pruning, if I just cut the whole thing back to a stump 
> every spring. However, if the buds are initiated the year before, 
> that 
> won't work.
> 
> Well, this is one tree with which I feel I can really experiment. 
> I'm 
> going to plant a Geraldi Dwarf Mulberry next spring, so if I do 
> something really unforgivable with this one (I almost have, 
> already), I 
> can just start over. For some reason, I don't feel that way about 
> the 
> rest of my fruit trees, despite the fact that I'll be buried in 
> fruit if 
> all of them do survive and produce.  :-D
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Bill
> Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
> 
> -- 
> The factory of the future will have only two employees, a man and a 
> dog. 
> The man will be there to feed the dog. The dog will be there to 
> keep the 
> man from touching the equipment. - Warren G. Bennis
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 12:10:58 -0500
> From: "Jim Fruth" <jfruth@tds.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing fruit
> To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <004a01c8083b$dea7f120$3679de42@ibma20plaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>       reply-type=original
> 
> Betsy Hilborn asked:  "Everyone talks about how heavily this tree 
> bears 
> fruit, however I have
> had a different experience.  I purchased an Illinois Everbearing 
> from Stark 
> Brothers in spring 2003.
> The tree now has a trunk of about 5" diameter; I have summer pruned it
> to keep it as a 12' wide, 10' tall heavily branched bushy tree.  
> DuringJune- August , I find 3-5 ripe fruits on it per week.  I do 
> not consider 
> this heavy bearing, although I assume that I must lose
> some whole fruits to birds.  What do people mean by fruiting 
> heavily.  Is my 
> experience typical?"
> 
> Betsy,
>    My Illinois Everbearing bear fruit at every leaf axil.  The 
> fruit goes 
> from green to red to black often in less than two days.  I have 
> assumed that 
> red was ripe and black was overripe (Black has the most/best 
> flavor).  A 
> gentle breeze will knock of the black fruits and a stronger wind 
> will knock 
> off the red ones.  Alot more fruit falls on the ground than what 
> amount the 
> birds eat.  If I don't harvest fruit every day,or oftener, I don't 
> get much. 
> We planted the trees to make jelly so I'm planning something 
> similar to an 
> upside-down umbrella made of veil netting or shade cloth to catch 
> the fruit 
> before the mice get it.
> 
>    Now for questions:  All of my Mulberry fruit is seedless which 
> is, I'm 
> assuming, the reason it falls off so readily.  Does seeded Mulberry 
> fruit 
> hang on longer?  My Mulberry fruits measure about 1/4"x 1".  Is 
> seeded 
> Mulberry larger?
> 
> Jim Fruth
> Brambleberry Farm
> Pequot Lakes, MN  56472
> For jams, jellies & syrups:
> www.bberryfarm.com
> (877)265-6856 [Store]
> (218)831-7018 [My Cell] 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:34:03 -0700
> From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bletting
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <e4eb81a408b29a7c239c84670b17afb8@hevanet.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars in 
> a 
> bowl of fruitwood sawdust.   This argues that they need dark, 
> reasonably humid conditions to blet.  I've found that when they 
> blet in 
> a group they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up 
> rather 
> than blet.  So humidity must be important.  Probably bletting in 
> leaves 
> would do the same thing.
> -Lon Rombough
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at 
> http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers 
> Association 
> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> For even more grape lessons, go to  http://www.grapeschool.com
> For all other things grape,   http://www.vitisearch.com
> 
> On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> On a related topic...
> I would like to here some different methods of bletting from 
> people. I 
> know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing. I 
> can 
> imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse 
> problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first?? ...a 3% bleach or 
> distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:57:52 -0500
> From: "Jim Fruth" <jfruth@tds.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] What's in your fertilizer?
> To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <012b01c8084a$cd8cd4a0$3679de42@ibma20plaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>       reply-type=original
> 
> Science News Online, Sept. 22, 2007
> (http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20070922/note15.asp)
> 
> Web Special: You fertilized with what?
> 
> Janet Raloff
> 
> Talk about your all-natural fertilizer with a high yuck factor. 
> Researchersin Finland have just published results of a study 
> showing that farmers can
> substitute human urine for conventional fertilizer and get a notable
> increase in cabbage yields. Moreover, the crop's taste was at least as
> acceptable as that of the greens fertilized conventionally.
> 
> Surendra K. Pradhan of the University of Kuopio and his colleagues 
> grewcabbages using a conventional fertilizer, human urine that had 
> been stored
> for 6 months, or no soil amendments at all. In an upcoming issue of 
> theJournal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, the researchers 
> report that
> urine treatment yielded cabbages that were bigger and carried fewer 
> germsthan either other approach yielded.
> 
> Although the nutrient content of urine depends on what someone has 
> eaten,analyses of the urine used in these experiments showed that 
> its nitrogen,
> phosphorus, and potassium content was comparable to that of commercial
> fertilizer.
> 
> Sauerkraut made from cabbages cultivated in the three ways had 
> slightlydifferent flavors, according to taste panelists, but were 
> equally well
> liked.
> 
> Urine collected from one individual over the course of a year could
> fertilize a 90-square-meter plot, yielding more than 160 cabbages, 
> the team
> calculates. The data indicate that a urine-treated plot would yield 64
> kilograms more cabbage than one fertilized conventionally, and 256 
> kg more
> than an unfertilized crop would.
> 
> Earlier this year, the Kuopio scientists reported that cucumbers 
> similarlybenefit from the use of urine over conventional fertilizer.
> 
> __._,_.___ 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 13:53:07 +0200
> From: hans brinkmann <hans-brinkmann@t-online.de>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bletting
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4708C8A3.8070206@t-online.de>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Hallo Lon, hallo Rob,
> 
> thank you very much!
> I did not know Pseudocydonia sinensis! Is the hardiness of 5 true?
> E.g. there is one  Cydonia ('Robusta') at Germany which is called 
> fireblight resistant.
> Cornus mas 'Jolico' is e.g. also very nice directly from the tree, 
> but 
> fully ripe.
> 
> I thought bletting has a connection with the Phenole- resp. 
> Tannin-content...?
> E.g. some Medlars have a Tannin content of 0,06%.
> They used Medlars as Marmelade, Jelly, cooked, fresh, for Juice, 
> Wine, 
> Liquor ...
> Also to increase fruit-wines quality because of Tannin.
> Even in ancient times Medlars were kept into wine diluted with 
> water and 
> into honey.
> At the middleage some lonely monks were "eating only medlars and 
> nuts".At Bulgaria they are put into vinegar or vinegar-sugar 
> solution and sold 
> as 'Mushmulnica'.
> Or roasted with butter, wine and sugar.
> I like to eat also very few unbletted fruit fresh from the tree.
> Bletting was done in very different ways:
> Just keeping them without touching at the air on boards or stringed 
> at a 
> cord.
> Or inside sawdust or straw."Writers and medlars are the best after 
> laying on (in) straw"!
> 
> ciao
> hans
> 
> 
> Lon J. Rombough schrieb:
> 
> > The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars 
> in a 
> > bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark, 
> reasonably 
> > humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they blet in a 
> group 
> > they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up rather 
> than 
> > blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in leaves 
> would 
> > do the same thing.
> > -Lon Rombough
> > Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, *The Grape Grower, *at 
> > http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers 
> Association 
> > "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> > For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> > For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
> >
> > On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> > On a related topic...
> > I would like to here some different methods of bletting from 
> people. I 
> > know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing. 
> I can 
> > imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse 
> > problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first?  ...a 3% bleach or 
> > distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 06:46:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: John S <swim_at_svc@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] C. Mas 'Jolico'
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <368796.31427.qm@web39101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Hans,  
>   
>  I am not sure where you are located, but do you know of any 
> sources of 'Jolico' in the US?
>   
>  Thanks
>   
>  John
> 
> hans brinkmann <hans-brinkmann@t-online.de> wrote:
>  Hallo Lon, hallo Rob,
> 
> thank you very much!
> I did not know Pseudocydonia sinensis! Is the hardiness of 5 true?
> E.g. there is one Cydonia ('Robusta') at Germany which is called 
> fireblight resistant.
> Cornus mas 'Jolico' is e.g. also very nice directly from the tree, 
> but 
> fully ripe.
> 
> I thought bletting has a connection with the Phenole- resp. 
> Tannin-content...?
> E.g. some Medlars have a Tannin content of 0,06%.
> They used Medlars as Marmelade, Jelly, cooked, fresh, for Juice, 
> Wine, 
> Liquor ...
> Also to increase fruit-wines quality because of Tannin.
> Even in ancient times Medlars were kept into wine diluted with 
> water and 
> into honey.
> At the middleage some lonely monks were "eating only medlars and 
> nuts".At Bulgaria they are put into vinegar or vinegar-sugar 
> solution and sold 
> as 'Mushmulnica'.
> Or roasted with butter, wine and sugar.
> I like to eat also very few unbletted fruit fresh from the tree.
> Bletting was done in very different ways:
> Just keeping them without touching at the air on boards or stringed 
> at a 
> cord.
> Or inside sawdust or straw."Writers and medlars are the best after 
> laying on (in) straw"!
> 
> ciao
> hans
> 
> 
> Lon J. Rombough schrieb:
> 
> > The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars 
> in a 
> > bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark, 
> reasonably 
> > humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they blet in a 
> group 
> > they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up rather 
> than 
> > blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in leaves 
> would 
> > do the same thing.
> > -Lon Rombough
> > Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, *The Grape Grower, *at 
> > http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers 
> Association 
> > "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> > For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> > For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
> >
> > On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> > On a related topic...
> > I would like to here some different methods of bletting from 
> people. I 
> > know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing. 
> I can 
> > imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse 
> > problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first? ...a 3% bleach or 
> > distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >nafex mailing list 
> >nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> >
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> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
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> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
> >Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.0/1048 - Release Date: 
> 03.10.2007 20:22
> > 
> >
> 
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> End of nafex Digest, Vol 57, Issue 18
> *************************************
>