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  • From: Neil T Lewis <lewisn@georgetown.edu>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Jolico cornus mas
  • Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 11:41:34 -0400


Hans,

Hidden Springs nursery sells Jolico. I recently bought two trees from them.
I gather that cornus mas is generally self-fertile, but I have read that
Jolico is not. Do you know anything about this?

Neil

(This is my first post. I am a fruit tree newbie, but have been reading this
list for the last year and find it extremely helpful.)

----- Original Message -----
From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
Date: Sunday, October 7, 2007 9:46 am
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 57, Issue 18

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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Illinois Everbearing (William C. Garthright)
> 2. Re: Illinois Everbearing (William C. Garthright)
> 3. Illinois Everbearing fruit (Jim Fruth)
> 4. Re: Bletting (Lon J. Rombough)
> 5. What's in your fertilizer? (Jim Fruth)
> 6. Re: Bletting (hans brinkmann)
> 7. C. Mas 'Jolico' (John S)
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 11:14:34 -0500
> From: "William C. Garthright" <billg@inebraska.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4707B46A.5000400@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
> > But, to me, that's one of its endearing features, in addition to
> its heavy production of extremely tasty berries. You can plant a
> small specimen, and in a very short timeframe, you'll have a nice,
> large productive tree.
> >
>
>
> Well, I'm sure it's an endearing feature if you have room for it.
> In my
> case, I'm trying to cram as many different kinds of fruit as
> possible
> into my backyard. Heh, heh. Still, this is at the NW corner of my
> lot,
> near the street and the alley, so I can manage a large tree there,
> if I
> have to. I'm going to try to keep it reasonably small, though, so I
> guess I'll keep trying to train the firehose!
>
> :-)
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> I am a biologist. Like it or not, the Republican party is being led
> by
> religious zealots who are anti-biology, who publicly and vigorously
> oppose reason and knowledge and evidence in my field of study. - PZ
> Myers
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 11:45:37 -0500
> From: "William C. Garthright" <billg@inebraska.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4707BBB1.9050507@inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
> > When you summer prune, you are probably pruning off buds in which
> flowers that will bloom the following year have already been
> initiated. ... He says it takes 50 days for the mulberry tree to
> initiate floral primordia. I do not know, however, whether the
> tree maintains this ability throughout the growing season.
>
>
> Thanks for the link, Sam. I see that the pruning there is somewhat
> like
> what I had in mind, as far as keeping the tree as a bushy stump (a
> higher stump, in my case, since the roots are white mulberry).
> However,
> the focus of this book is on the production of leaves, not fruit,
> apparently.
>
> I just planted my tree this spring, but I do have some green
> mulberries
> on it. Not too many, and of course it's very late in the year, but
> they
> are on this year's growth. That's why I was hoping to be able to
> prune
> heavily in the spring and still get berries. I wouldn't have to
> worry
> about summer pruning, if I just cut the whole thing back to a stump
> every spring. However, if the buds are initiated the year before,
> that
> won't work.
>
> Well, this is one tree with which I feel I can really experiment.
> I'm
> going to plant a Geraldi Dwarf Mulberry next spring, so if I do
> something really unforgivable with this one (I almost have,
> already), I
> can just start over. For some reason, I don't feel that way about
> the
> rest of my fruit trees, despite the fact that I'll be buried in
> fruit if
> all of them do survive and produce. :-D
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Bill
> Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
>
> --
> The factory of the future will have only two employees, a man and a
> dog.
> The man will be there to feed the dog. The dog will be there to
> keep the
> man from touching the equipment. - Warren G. Bennis
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 12:10:58 -0500
> From: "Jim Fruth" <jfruth@tds.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Illinois Everbearing fruit
> To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <004a01c8083b$dea7f120$3679de42@ibma20plaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Betsy Hilborn asked: "Everyone talks about how heavily this tree
> bears
> fruit, however I have
> had a different experience. I purchased an Illinois Everbearing
> from Stark
> Brothers in spring 2003.
> The tree now has a trunk of about 5" diameter; I have summer pruned it
> to keep it as a 12' wide, 10' tall heavily branched bushy tree.
> DuringJune- August , I find 3-5 ripe fruits on it per week. I do
> not consider
> this heavy bearing, although I assume that I must lose
> some whole fruits to birds. What do people mean by fruiting
> heavily. Is my
> experience typical?"
>
> Betsy,
> My Illinois Everbearing bear fruit at every leaf axil. The
> fruit goes
> from green to red to black often in less than two days. I have
> assumed that
> red was ripe and black was overripe (Black has the most/best
> flavor). A
> gentle breeze will knock of the black fruits and a stronger wind
> will knock
> off the red ones. Alot more fruit falls on the ground than what
> amount the
> birds eat. If I don't harvest fruit every day,or oftener, I don't
> get much.
> We planted the trees to make jelly so I'm planning something
> similar to an
> upside-down umbrella made of veil netting or shade cloth to catch
> the fruit
> before the mice get it.
>
> Now for questions: All of my Mulberry fruit is seedless which
> is, I'm
> assuming, the reason it falls off so readily. Does seeded Mulberry
> fruit
> hang on longer? My Mulberry fruits measure about 1/4"x 1". Is
> seeded
> Mulberry larger?
>
> Jim Fruth
> Brambleberry Farm
> Pequot Lakes, MN 56472
> For jams, jellies & syrups:
> www.bberryfarm.com
> (877)265-6856 [Store]
> (218)831-7018 [My Cell]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:34:03 -0700
> From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bletting
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <e4eb81a408b29a7c239c84670b17afb8@hevanet.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars in
> a
> bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark,
> reasonably humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they
> blet in
> a group they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up
> rather
> than blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in
> leaves
> would do the same thing.
> -Lon Rombough
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
> http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers
> Association
> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
>
> On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> On a related topic...
> I would like to here some different methods of bletting from
> people. I
> know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing. I
> can
> imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse
> problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first?? ...a 3% bleach or
> distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 13:57:52 -0500
> From: "Jim Fruth" <jfruth@tds.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] What's in your fertilizer?
> To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <012b01c8084a$cd8cd4a0$3679de42@ibma20plaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Science News Online, Sept. 22, 2007
> (http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20070922/note15.asp)
>
> Web Special: You fertilized with what?
>
> Janet Raloff
>
> Talk about your all-natural fertilizer with a high yuck factor.
> Researchersin Finland have just published results of a study
> showing that farmers can
> substitute human urine for conventional fertilizer and get a notable
> increase in cabbage yields. Moreover, the crop's taste was at least as
> acceptable as that of the greens fertilized conventionally.
>
> Surendra K. Pradhan of the University of Kuopio and his colleagues
> grewcabbages using a conventional fertilizer, human urine that had
> been stored
> for 6 months, or no soil amendments at all. In an upcoming issue of
> theJournal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, the researchers
> report that
> urine treatment yielded cabbages that were bigger and carried fewer
> germsthan either other approach yielded.
>
> Although the nutrient content of urine depends on what someone has
> eaten,analyses of the urine used in these experiments showed that
> its nitrogen,
> phosphorus, and potassium content was comparable to that of commercial
> fertilizer.
>
> Sauerkraut made from cabbages cultivated in the three ways had
> slightlydifferent flavors, according to taste panelists, but were
> equally well
> liked.
>
> Urine collected from one individual over the course of a year could
> fertilize a 90-square-meter plot, yielding more than 160 cabbages,
> the team
> calculates. The data indicate that a urine-treated plot would yield 64
> kilograms more cabbage than one fertilized conventionally, and 256
> kg more
> than an unfertilized crop would.
>
> Earlier this year, the Kuopio scientists reported that cucumbers
> similarlybenefit from the use of urine over conventional fertilizer.
>
> __._,_.___
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 13:53:07 +0200
> From: hans brinkmann <hans-brinkmann@t-online.de>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bletting
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4708C8A3.8070206@t-online.de>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Hallo Lon, hallo Rob,
>
> thank you very much!
> I did not know Pseudocydonia sinensis! Is the hardiness of 5 true?
> E.g. there is one Cydonia ('Robusta') at Germany which is called
> fireblight resistant.
> Cornus mas 'Jolico' is e.g. also very nice directly from the tree,
> but
> fully ripe.
>
> I thought bletting has a connection with the Phenole- resp.
> Tannin-content...?
> E.g. some Medlars have a Tannin content of 0,06%.
> They used Medlars as Marmelade, Jelly, cooked, fresh, for Juice,
> Wine,
> Liquor ...
> Also to increase fruit-wines quality because of Tannin.
> Even in ancient times Medlars were kept into wine diluted with
> water and
> into honey.
> At the middleage some lonely monks were "eating only medlars and
> nuts".At Bulgaria they are put into vinegar or vinegar-sugar
> solution and sold
> as 'Mushmulnica'.
> Or roasted with butter, wine and sugar.
> I like to eat also very few unbletted fruit fresh from the tree.
> Bletting was done in very different ways:
> Just keeping them without touching at the air on boards or stringed
> at a
> cord.
> Or inside sawdust or straw."Writers and medlars are the best after
> laying on (in) straw"!
>
> ciao
> hans
>
>
> Lon J. Rombough schrieb:
>
> > The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars
> in a
> > bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark,
> reasonably
> > humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they blet in a
> group
> > they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up rather
> than
> > blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in leaves
> would
> > do the same thing.
> > -Lon Rombough
> > Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, *The Grape Grower, *at
> > http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers
> Association
> > "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> > For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> > For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
> >
> > On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> > On a related topic...
> > I would like to here some different methods of bletting from
> people. I
> > know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing.
> I can
> > imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse
> > problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first? ...a 3% bleach or
> > distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> >nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 06:46:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: John S <swim_at_svc@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] C. Mas 'Jolico'
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <368796.31427.qm@web39101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hans,
>
> I am not sure where you are located, but do you know of any
> sources of 'Jolico' in the US?
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> hans brinkmann <hans-brinkmann@t-online.de> wrote:
> Hallo Lon, hallo Rob,
>
> thank you very much!
> I did not know Pseudocydonia sinensis! Is the hardiness of 5 true?
> E.g. there is one Cydonia ('Robusta') at Germany which is called
> fireblight resistant.
> Cornus mas 'Jolico' is e.g. also very nice directly from the tree,
> but
> fully ripe.
>
> I thought bletting has a connection with the Phenole- resp.
> Tannin-content...?
> E.g. some Medlars have a Tannin content of 0,06%.
> They used Medlars as Marmelade, Jelly, cooked, fresh, for Juice,
> Wine,
> Liquor ...
> Also to increase fruit-wines quality because of Tannin.
> Even in ancient times Medlars were kept into wine diluted with
> water and
> into honey.
> At the middleage some lonely monks were "eating only medlars and
> nuts".At Bulgaria they are put into vinegar or vinegar-sugar
> solution and sold
> as 'Mushmulnica'.
> Or roasted with butter, wine and sugar.
> I like to eat also very few unbletted fruit fresh from the tree.
> Bletting was done in very different ways:
> Just keeping them without touching at the air on boards or stringed
> at a
> cord.
> Or inside sawdust or straw."Writers and medlars are the best after
> laying on (in) straw"!
>
> ciao
> hans
>
>
> Lon J. Rombough schrieb:
>
> > The traditional method in Elizabethan times was to bury medlars
> in a
> > bowl of fruitwood sawdust. This argues that they need dark,
> reasonably
> > humid conditions to blet. I've found that when they blet in a
> group
> > they do better than single fruits, which tend to dry up rather
> than
> > blet. So humidity must be important. Probably bletting in leaves
> would
> > do the same thing.
> > -Lon Rombough
> > Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, *The Grape Grower, *at
> > http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers
> Association
> > "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> > For even more grape lessons, go to http://www.grapeschool.com
> > For all other things grape, http://www.vitisearch.com
> >
> > On Oct 6, 2007, at 8:02 AM, rob hamilton wrote:
> > On a related topic...
> > I would like to here some different methods of bletting from
> people. I
> > know a number of my Medlars sour or even moldy before finishing.
> I can
> > imaging fleshy fruits like the Quinces would have and even worse
> > problem. Does anyone prep the fruits first? ...a 3% bleach or
> > distilled vinegar wash? Do they do better on sunlight or in dark?
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >nafex mailing list
> >nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> >
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> >This includes distribution on other email lists or reproduction on
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> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.0/1048 - Release Date:
> 03.10.2007 20:22
> >
> >
>
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> End of nafex Digest, Vol 57, Issue 18
> *************************************
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