North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Richard Moyer" <ramoyer@gmail.com>]

Was asked:

"I'm in Zone 5a (AHS Heat Zone 7), and it got below zero several times
this winter (twice to -8, I believe). Could I still grow this fig if I
mulch it heavily with straw for the winter (expecting that the top would
die back each year, but it would re-sprout from the roots)? If so, how
should I manage that? Cut it off at ground level in late winter, or just
wait and see what happens? And how big should I expect it to get each
year (i.e. how much room would it need - the absolute minimum)? It would
probably sprout in bush form, wouldn't it? So I'm guessing it wouldn't
take much room (always an advantage). Any other tips? I'm thinking about
planting one in the spring of 2008, if it looks feasible."

At least some of the Chicago Hardy material comes from Fred Born, who collected it in Chicago from northern Italian immigrants.  If it will survive in Chicago, I think you can make it work for you as well.

 

Mine has been in the ground 15 years, through numerous Zone 6 winters of single digits below zero, and at least one -14 F.  We mulch it heavily, to prevent the ground from freezing.  Usually cut all the wood back, though with the mild winters of the last couple of years, am now leaving some wood uncut, and it has survived a few 4-5 F nights.  Ours will get about 12 ft tall in a good year, all new growth, no fertilizer other than rotting leaves.  Makes a multistem bush, about 12 ft wide as well.  Ray Givan thins out his weaker suckers, he also cuts the tender top growth late summer or early fall to direct energy into ripening the largest green fruit.

 

We have several neighbors in town with figs against southern walls, which can get 4-6'' diameter trunks over several years between the worst freezes.

 

Has been noted that the buds are the most tender, and that these tend to dessicate in winter more than freeze, so if you want to preserve the buds, consider wind protection.  Also, A.J. Bullard says a hard freeze on an actively growing fig is "the kiss of death".

 

So I suggest you go for it, with a microclimate of max summer heat, and to minimize spring and fall freeze damage.  Our are surrounded by asphalt driveway, sidewalk and brick house.  If your summer temps get in the 90s, you should be able to ripen some fruit.  Our Hardy Chicago and Sal's figs reliably ripen for us, even at our elevation with seldom a summer day into the low 90s.  We get fruit here starting late August thru mid-Sept until heavy freezes.  Oiling the figs is essential to ripen them quicker in the fall.  Really brings them on. 

 

Richard Moyer

Zone 6, East TN, 1800'