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Mark Lanmon here.  Whoever copied this ancient accout of grafting below is
being a help to me.  I am helping a remote people group near Tibet to
learn grafting.  They will not have grafting tape (or any tape) available
to them so this home made mixture and technique is more likely something
they can use.  If anyone else has some advise on non-store-bought
supplies, I would be very interested.  Thanks, Mark.

On Sat, September 2, 2006 9:23 am, Thomas Olenio wrote:
> On Sat, 02 Sep 2006 07:38:09 -0400, Bassem Samaan <bassem@gardener.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>> Grafting goes back thousands of years, and have been mentioned in
>> Romans
>> chapter 11,
>
> Hi,
>
>
> Ancient Roman texts, preceeding the new testament of the Bible indicated
> that grafting was ancient then.
>
> Columella
>
>
> Pliny
>
>
> Cato
>
>
> =======
> http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Cato/De_Agricultura/A*.h
> tml
>
> ..."Figs, olives, apples, pears, and vines should be grafted in the dark
> of the moon, after noon, when the south wind is not blowing. The following
>  is a good method of grafting olives, figs, p59 pears or apples: 2Cut the
>  end of the branch you are going to graft, slope it a bit so that the
> water will run off, and in cutting be careful not to tear the bark. Get
> you a hard stick and sharpen the end, and split a Greek willow. Mix clay
> or chalk, a little sand, and cattle dung, and knead them thoroughly so as
> to make a very sticky mass. Take your split willow and tie it around the
> cut branch to keep the bark from splitting. 3When you have done this,
> drive the sharpened stick between the bark and the wood two finger-tips
> deep. Then take your shoot, whatever variety you wish to graft, and
> sharpen the end obliquely for a distance of two finger-tips; take out the
> dry stick which you have driven in and drive in the shoot you wish to
> graft. Fit bark to bark, and drive it in to the end of the slope. In the
> same way you may graft a second, a third, a fourth shoot, as many
> varieties as you please. 4Wrap the Greek willow thicker, smear the stock
> with the kneaded mixture three fingers deep, and cover the whole with
> ox-tongue,53 so that if it rains the water will not soak into the bark;
> this ox-tongue must be tied with bark to keep it from falling off.
> Finally, wrap it in straw and
> bind tightly, to keep the cold from injuring it.
>
> 41 Vine grafting may be done in the spring or when the vine flowers, the
> former time being best. Pears and apples may be grafted during the spring,
>  for fifty days at the time of the summer solstice, and during the
> vintage; 2olives and figs should be grafted during the spring. Graft the
> vine as follows: Cut off the stem you are grafting, and split
> p61 the middle through the pith; in it insert the sharpened shoots you are
>  grafting, fitting pith to pith. A second method is: If the vines touch
> each other, cut the ends of a young shoot of each obliquely, and tie pith
>  to pith with bark. 3A third method is: With an awl bore a hole through
> the vine which you are grafting, and fit tightly to the pith two vine
> shoots of whatever variety you wish, cut obliquely. Join pith to pith, and
> fit them into the perforation, one on each side.54 4Have these shoots each
> two feet long; drop them to the ground and bend them back toward the vine
> stock, fastening the middle of the vine to the ground with forked sticks
> and covering with dirt. Smear all these with the kneaded mixture, tie
> them up and protect them in the way I have described for olives.
>
> 42 Another method of grafting figs and olives is: Remove with a knife the
>  bark from any variety of fig or olive you wish, and take off a piece of
> bark containing a bud of any variety of fig you wish to graft. Apply it
> to the place you have cleared on the other variety, and make it fit. The
> bark should be three and a half fingers long and three fingers wide. Smear
> and protect as in the other operation."....
>
> Later,
> Tom
>
>
>
> --
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