North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Lucky Pittman <lucky.pittman@murraystate.edu>]

Ginda,
The bulk of my apples, or at least those I planted the first two or three 
years, as I was getting the orchard established, are on a combo M111/M9 
rootstock.  Most are in the vicinity of 6-7 yrs old now, and most are 
around 10 ft tall - but I will confess, I've not pruned any in the past 3 
years - just can't get around to it - too many other things demanding my time.

My orchard is in a fairly exposed site, and catches a bit of wind.  Part of 
my reason for selecting the combo was the reputation M111 had for superior 
anchorage.  I've been pretty disappointed in performance from that 
standpoint - there are quite a few of the trees that are leaning - and very 
badly - some at 45 degrees or more; a couple, I'm probably going to just 
remove, as I don't think I can ever get 'em straightened up, and it's 
really hard mowing around/under them.

Suckers - yep, they sucker - maybe not as prolifically as those on M7, but 
several of them more so than others in the orchard.  I'm presuming, from 
Ed's previous discussions, that it's probably the M111 understock that's 
throwing suckers, but I can't swear that that's the case.  I have 
pulled/dug the occasional sucker and transplanted to nursery beds for use 
as rootstocks.

Fruiting - thus far, the apples I've got on M7 have been more productive 
than those on the combo rootstock - and better anchored, as well.

So...at least in my spot, I've decided that M7 is a better choice, and if I 
ever buy rootstocks again, that's the way I'll be going.  But, for the most 
part, I'm abandoning apples, other than planting a few out for the wildlife 
or on standard rootstocks for a pasture shade tree.  Until my kids are all 
out of school, I don't see myself having time to devote the level of care 
that apples require - pears, persimmons, pecans & hickories for me!

Lucky