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  • From: Mauch1@aol.com
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [NAFEX] pruning/training apples
  • Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 12:11:08 -0500

Tom,

The advise you were given seems to counter the comercial methods now
currently in vogue (and is the way I'm tending
to aim my own current pruning):

http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/french_axe/slide1.htm

also

http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/apple_trellis/introduction.htm

Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6
40° 5' N 75° 51'W
~650 ft elevation
>From Mauch1@aol.com Tue Mar 11 12:20:15 2003
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Subject: [NAFEX] Bud 9 vs. M9 apple rootstocks
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>Doesn't collar rot relate to how pruning cuts are made, in >addition to
>variety?

I was under the impression it had mainly to do with the soil,
and the water conditions the tree was planted in. I'm talking
about the disease that attacks the tree trunks where they come
out of the ground (although I believe the fungus can attack
other parts of the tree, such as the roots themselves).

Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6
40° 5' N 75° 51'W
~650 ft elevation
>From tolenio@sentex.net Tue Mar 11 12:32:05 2003
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Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 12:31:21 -0500
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Subject: Re: [NAFEX] pruning/training apples
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Hello,

I can only say that is what the horticulturist at the arboretum was teaching.

Having a strong tree structure with good laterals would seem to make sense
whether the tree was 8 feet tall or 20 feet
tall.

My guess is that all training systems would have that as a basis, and
opinions will vary on how best to achieve it.

However, you have to go with the tree you have.

A commercial orchard would yank a tree that did not conform to their pruning
system. A hobbyists can allow the tree to
dictate the system applied. If a tree does not have a strong central leader,
does the French Ax make sense for it?

Ginda indicated her tree had a flimsy central leader. She could fight the
inclination of the tree or go with it,
finding the best training system for a tree with that particular inclination.

I would not want anyone to think that Kock's approach is the only approach.
He did stress that you should look at the
tree, and go with the inclination of the tree, and not fight it.

Later,
Tom

Mauch1@aol.com wrote:

> Tom,
>
> The advise you were given seems to counter the comercial methods now
> currently in vogue (and is the way I'm tending
> to aim my own current pruning):
>
> http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/french_axe/slide1.htm
>
> also
>
> http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/apple_trellis/introduction.htm
>
> Chris Mauchline
> SE PA, zone 6
> 40° 5' N 75° 51'W
> ~650 ft elevation
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--

===
Canada plant hardiness zone 5b
Southwest Ontario
===





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