North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["philip sauber" <mrxtexas@lycos.com>]

Try my website for cold protections hints:
http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/ColdProtection.htm
Also on my home page has how to bank with dirt pictures: 
http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/

You are much better off buying grafted citrus as it bears in 1-2 years and 
seedlings may take 5 years or more.  Don't let the seeds dry out, germinate 
like any other seed.  Grow in a pot for a year and then plant outside. Be 
careful about soil being well drained.  The seeds a touchy about damping off. 

If you bank your trees with dirt to above the graft, they will come back from 
a bad freeze from the graft or roots(seedling).  If you don't, they might not.
Phil
 
--

On Sat, 8 Feb 2003 16:22:22   
 jamie wrote:
>Hello Philip, I'm at the planning stage of a home orchard and would like to
>plant some citrus from seed and I'm also in a zone 8b/9a area. What I'd like
>to know is how you germinate your seeds or whether you just plant the seed
>directly in its permanent location. I'm also interested in knowing how well
>the citrus come back from those occasional years where the tree is killed to
>the roots (I think about 20 years ago there was a frost down to 10F) and if
>there is some simple protection that can be taken (wrapping in fleece for
>example) and how effective it is.
>
>Jamie
>Souscayrous
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nafex-admin@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-admin@lists.ibiblio.org]On
>Behalf Of philip sauber
>Sent: vendredi 7 février 2003 23:16
>To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Potted citrus
>
>I'd like to know where there is low humidity in Texas where citrus will
>grow?  It is like a steam bath here near Houston all summer!  Citrus from
>California definately has thicker skin than from Florida or Texas.  It also
>has to do with variety.  White grapefruit has thicker skin than pink or red.
>
>I grow citrus from seed as well as grafting onto seed grown rootstock.  The
>price certainly is right (free) in comparison to a grafted tree for $25-$30.
>I mostly give away the seedling trees.  They tend to be tall, thorny, and
>take a few to many more years to bear.  Most come true from seed, most
>mandarins except clementine.  Satsuma certainly does.  I've had them fruit
>in 1-3 years grown outside in the ground.  An advantage of seedlings is that
>they come true from the roots after being frozen out.  I have a nice
>seedling sour orange I grow for marmalaide that grew to 15 feet high in 3
>years.  As I was budding bearing sour orange budwood on three branches to
>get fruit faster, I noticed that the fourth branch was blooming!  The
>seedling part is quite thorny with thorns as long as 2 inches.  I got
>budwood from the top of a bearing tree and it has grown branches that are
>thornless.
>
>A friend has a mature seedling kumquat in the ground that has thorns as big
>as a 12 penny nail on the trunk and at the top is thornless!
>
>I live in a place that has had zone 9b weather since 1989 (low of 25-30F).
>However, in Christmas of that year, we had a zone 7b day(10F) that killed
>all unprotected citrus.  We are on the line between 8b/9a.  Every 5 years or
>so we get 18-20F for a few hours.
>--
>
>On Fri, 7 Feb 2003 11:05:54
> miekal and wrote:
>>This is what I was thinking since these fruit were set outdoors, but
>>they have been ripening indoors in a quite dry house since Oct 1.  But
>>I guess there are a lot of variables to consider.
>>
>>mIEKAL
>>
>>
>>On Friday, February 7, 2003, at 10:56 AM, Richard O'Barr wrote:
>>>
>>>      My observation of citrus from TX where the humidity is low seem
>>> to run
>>> with thicker skins than those from FL with a higher humidity. Just a
>>> thought
>>> there.
>>>                                                      TG
>>
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>
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