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  • From: "philip sauber" <mrxtexas@lycos.com>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: RE: [NAFEX] Potted citrus
  • Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 15:12:42 -0600

Try my website for cold protections hints:
http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/ColdProtection.htm
Also on my home page has how to bank with dirt pictures:
http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/

You are much better off buying grafted citrus as it bears in 1-2 years and
seedlings may take 5 years or more. Don't let the seeds dry out, germinate
like any other seed. Grow in a pot for a year and then plant outside. Be
careful about soil being well drained. The seeds a touchy about damping off.

If you bank your trees with dirt to above the graft, they will come back from
a bad freeze from the graft or roots(seedling). If you don't, they might not.
Phil

--

On Sat, 8 Feb 2003 16:22:22
jamie wrote:
>Hello Philip, I'm at the planning stage of a home orchard and would like to
>plant some citrus from seed and I'm also in a zone 8b/9a area. What I'd like
>to know is how you germinate your seeds or whether you just plant the seed
>directly in its permanent location. I'm also interested in knowing how well
>the citrus come back from those occasional years where the tree is killed to
>the roots (I think about 20 years ago there was a frost down to 10F) and if
>there is some simple protection that can be taken (wrapping in fleece for
>example) and how effective it is.
>
>Jamie
>Souscayrous
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nafex-admin@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-admin@lists.ibiblio.org]On
>Behalf Of philip sauber
>Sent: vendredi 7 février 2003 23:16
>To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Potted citrus
>
>I'd like to know where there is low humidity in Texas where citrus will
>grow? It is like a steam bath here near Houston all summer! Citrus from
>California definately has thicker skin than from Florida or Texas. It also
>has to do with variety. White grapefruit has thicker skin than pink or red.
>
>I grow citrus from seed as well as grafting onto seed grown rootstock. The
>price certainly is right (free) in comparison to a grafted tree for $25-$30.
>I mostly give away the seedling trees. They tend to be tall, thorny, and
>take a few to many more years to bear. Most come true from seed, most
>mandarins except clementine. Satsuma certainly does. I've had them fruit
>in 1-3 years grown outside in the ground. An advantage of seedlings is that
>they come true from the roots after being frozen out. I have a nice
>seedling sour orange I grow for marmalaide that grew to 15 feet high in 3
>years. As I was budding bearing sour orange budwood on three branches to
>get fruit faster, I noticed that the fourth branch was blooming! The
>seedling part is quite thorny with thorns as long as 2 inches. I got
>budwood from the top of a bearing tree and it has grown branches that are
>thornless.
>
>A friend has a mature seedling kumquat in the ground that has thorns as big
>as a 12 penny nail on the trunk and at the top is thornless!
>
>I live in a place that has had zone 9b weather since 1989 (low of 25-30F).
>However, in Christmas of that year, we had a zone 7b day(10F) that killed
>all unprotected citrus. We are on the line between 8b/9a. Every 5 years or
>so we get 18-20F for a few hours.
>--
>
>On Fri, 7 Feb 2003 11:05:54
> miekal and wrote:
>>This is what I was thinking since these fruit were set outdoors, but
>>they have been ripening indoors in a quite dry house since Oct 1. But
>>I guess there are a lot of variables to consider.
>>
>>mIEKAL
>>
>>
>>On Friday, February 7, 2003, at 10:56 AM, Richard O'Barr wrote:
>>>
>>> My observation of citrus from TX where the humidity is low seem
>>> to run
>>> with thicker skins than those from FL with a higher humidity. Just a
>>> thought
>>> there.
>>> TG
>>
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>
>
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