permaculture

[Stephen Brennan <thebrenmeister@gmail.com>]

Using torents is very easy.

1 Downlaod a free Torrent downloading program - I recommend the excellent
uTorrent (http://www.utorrent.com/) <http://www.utorrent.com/%29>.
2.Fiind files you want to download (use google or torrentz.com for
example...simply type what your looking for plus torrent at the end, if
using google i.e permaculture design manual torrent) Click the appropriate
link and look for download button.
it should open automatically in utorrent.

You have to open utorrent when you start your computer and it will do the
rest.

Thats pretty much it.

best of luck

Stephen Brennan



On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 12:54 PM, <LBUZZELL@aol.com> wrote:

> I'd like to put in a good word for succulents as a useful living mulch in
> Mediterranean climates.  Thanks to climate change, our fire season is now
> 10 months long and although we also use wood and "chop and drop" mulches as
> well  as other living mulches (many, like nasturtium, are edible), we've
> found that  especially in a young garden, succulents (which are usually
> available free as  cuttings from someone else's garden) cover the earth
> nicely,
> holding water  underneath and in their own tissues -- highly
> fire-resistant.
>
> Linda Buzzell
> Santa Barbara, CA, USA
>
>
> In a message dated 12/10/2009 1:19:08 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> venaurafarm@bellsouth.net writes:
>
>
> Michael Pilarski wrote:
>
> > A small gripe.  would  people not put "US Permaculture National
> Conference" in the subject line  of a post when they are talking about
> something totally  different.
>
> It could be amazingly useful to preface every subject header  with
> keywords describing the variant on the existing thread's subject
> or  a new thread or one-off post.
>
> > If you google it you will find  various sources including an article
> in the pc activist.  Also it  looks like it can be downloaded from
>
> http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/4774652/THE_METHODS_OF_JEAN_PAIN_Another_Kin
> d_of_Garden
>
> Could  anyone give us an intro to using torrents?
> what software
> toolbars
> how  to download files
> whatever else is necessary
>
> Michael Pilarski  wrote:
>
> > On the topic of appropriateness of deep mulch in  Mediterannean
> climates.  Some people may have had bad experience with  this for one
> reason or another, but the decades long work of Jean Pain in  a hot
> Mediterannean bioregion in France included successfully growing  gardens
> without irrigation with the use of deep mulch (in combination with  other
> strategies).
> >
> > His most in-depth description is in his  book "Another Kind of
> Garden". > I highly recommend his work for many  reasons.  Including the
> use of > >woody biomass, conversion of  biomass into energy, hot
> composting with > >biomass and fire  reduction in chapparal ecosystems.
>
> My take on mulch in food gardens is  that there is never enough of it
> and that living mulches are different but  of equal value, especially if
> they fix nitrogen and don't compete with the  primary crop.
>
> I think that the best gardening method  is:
>
> permanent
>
> no-till except for light scarification of surface  crust (not a problem
> is there is  high OM in the topmost soil layer,  the desired condition)
> or for weeding, best done to  shallow depth to  avoidn disturbing the
> weed seed bank
>
> raised beds with heavy, deep  mulch between beds
>
> Double dig by hand to construct these beds or  carefully use
> powered mechanical means to accomplish this or accomplish  part
> of the work. I have used a tractor with three to five  different
> mounted on it to do ALL the work of constructing raised beds  on
> five acres of my land. I used the tractor because I wanted five acres of
> guaranteed production in those raised beds. Raised beds provide much
> needed drainage which can channel runoff to other gardens and/or to
> impoundments. Sometimes prepared flat or nearly flat beds that are not
> hilled/bedded are good too and for different reasons and uses; high soil
> OM is required for this type of gardening.
>
> My intent is to do the  most I can with the tractor to lay out and shape
> these raised beds, once  and for all in a final configuration. After this
> is accomplished the beds  would be worked by hand thereafter, each
> seaason, each year, producing the  desired biointensive, mulched, high
> soil OM, permanent no till raised  beds.
>
> I will be documenting my work this winter and next spring and  summer
> as I work to accomplish my goal of not needing the tractor in the  field
> at all. Presently I have two main fields with gardens, each with deer
> fencing. One is fallow, Fukuoka-style with lots of weeds and food crops
> in succession. The other, my primary production area, is divided into
> fallow gardens and ones dominated by cover crops (volunteer), turnip
> greens and rye grass, thick with these crops. As I will probably not be
> able to get the tractor into the field this winter I will be faced with
> hand tilling and weeding every square foot of garden space that I plan
> to plant in one crop or another in early spring and following. I will
> leave the weeds to grow and reseed in well over half of this area, good
> because the soil will have cover growing on it throughout we and dry
> seasons. This situation will give me the chance, finally, to create the
> types of notill beds I have been waiting years  for.
>
> LL
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