permaculture

[Udan Farm <udanfarm@yahoo.com>]

Hi Everyone,
I have recently been making a serious effort to keep up with this list, and 
wanted to add a thought about open-source and the future of knowledge.
I'll admit, at first, I wanted to be annoyed with Evan-I was thinking in the 
"normal" mindset, that copyrights are good, Bill worked hard on that manual….
but I watched the Richard Baraniuk video. It's good.

This is the future. And we are lucky to have Evan in our midst, who is 
thinking about Permaculture, and sharing the knowledge IN THE FUTURE.


two things that got me thinking this is a good thing-moving pics and links 
within the document, and cutting out the middleman, a 22$ textbook!
I used to work in printing, started with a man that still did cut and paste 
and ran a press, and had ink all over him at the end of the day. He was 
older, and never did get into the digital age. But now, most printing is 
digital.  So things DO move forward.
I do understand that maybe Mr. & Mrs. Mollison don't even want to think about 
digitizing and 100 languages etc. (the older you get the more you'll 
understand.)
But I think there is a time coming, and a set of people coming, that WILL be 
the ones to do it.
Evan, in some circles, if you suggest it, you're in charge :)
On that note, I have another comment, but will send in a separate email.
Thanks for all the good thoughts and ideas,
Peace,Isabel Crabtree


------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 07:46:53 -0800
From: Evan Schoepke <thejulianeffect@gmail.com>
Subject: [permaculture] Permaculture Knowledge Ecosysterm! very
    important
To: permaculture <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>,    Tagari Publications
    <dtp@tagari.com>
Message-ID:
    <475de0280912060746v2a05145dk8fa9a8845d42aaa1@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I think one has to see this video if you want to understand *the future of
permaculture* knowledge tools and content.
How *we can and must* open permaculture knowledge up to hundreds languages
and people all over the world and bring it from the digital dark ages!
 Publishing on demand will cut out the middle men, save money, and open up
content!
 Richard Baraniuk: Goodbye, textbooks; hello, open-source
learning<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRymi-lFHpE>
recommended sites working in this direction appropedia.org
*
*

-- 
The obstacle is the Path.
-Zen Proverb

I write at www.punkrockpermaculture.com






>From dickpiercedesigns@gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 15:44:59 2009
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Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 14:44:45 -0600
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From: Dick Pierce <dickpiercedesigns@gmail.com>
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Probably lots of Google diagrams on how to do this - quite simple and
productive but rather labor intensive. John Jeavons is the US Master of this
technique borrowed from the French Intensive Method (fresh veggies to Paris
markets from rural truck farmers for almost 12 months per year). "How to
Grow More Vegetables on Less Land than You Ever Thought Possible" is the
main book I'd recommend.

A typical Google image is copied below - for example for a 4x8 foot bed
(enough to see if you like the sweat equity investment and whether your soil
is amenable), the method is to dig "trenches" 4' long by 1' wide by 10-16"
deep - one foot at a time down the bed. To start, dig the 1st trench at one
4' end of the bed to one spade depth, or so - put this dirt in a wheelbarrow
or other container for later transport to the other end of the bed. Now to
the steady-state - use a spading fork to loosen the soil in the trench to
another spade depth.

Then finish trench 1 and start trench 2 - by digging another 4'x1'x10-16"
trench next to/parallel to the first one, and placing the soil from this
trench 2 into trench 1. Result is a finished, fluffed-up trench 1, and an
open trench 2. Use the spading fork now in trench 2 to loosen the soil well
for another 10-16" in trench 2.

Continue to do this - dig an new trench, put soil in the previous trench,
and then loosen the subsoil in the new trench with the spading fork. Most
people use a 2x4' piece of plywood to stand on while digging - this nicely
defines the far edge of the new trench and provides a little leverage to the
spade during the digging. Move the 2'x4' a foot for each new trench. The
plywood keeps the mud/dirt somewhat off of your boots and keeps your feet
from compacting the soil.

At the end of the bed you should have a trench that has been spaded out and
loosened to another spade's depth (that is, double dug), but with no next
trench to provide back-fill soil - use the soil excavated from the very 1st
trench that is in the wheel-barrow to fill it.

That's the basics in words - you'll get it better from the diagram below or
other image on google and best by doing it. It is better with a friend(s) to
urge you on and to share the task with you. Plants and plant roots love it -
so do soil microbes as they use the loose pore structure created for root
hairs to suck up minerals and O2 in solution in the newly created pores.

We have very heavy clay here in C-TX and sometimes very shallow topsoils.
Double digging won't work if you don't have at least 2 spade depths of
topsoil. And heavy clay soils are tough, tough, tough to dig. But every
gardener/farmer should do one bed once to see if the effort and the results
are worth it - both often substantial. After 1-2 times of double digging,
soil microbes and plant roots should take over the job of keeping the soil
full of pore space for water, air, and root hairs.

Good luck with it - fall/winter is a good time to do this on unfrozen,
reasonably dry ground vs. the hot sun of late spring/summer - it's aerobic
enough in cold weather.

Dick Pierce



On Sun, Dec 6, 2009 at 2:06 PM, Jeff <toobeeorknottoobee@gmail.com> wrote:

> Just curious, can someone give me an explanation or a how to on double
> digging a plot for biointensive plantings?
>
> -Jeff
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