permaculture

["Lawrence F. London, Jr." <lfl@intrex.net>]

Toby Hemenway wrote:

> In general most of the problems that gypsum is recommended for, like
> buffering pH problems and breaking up heavy clay, can be solved by adding
> organic matter, and perhaps rock dust as well. But gypsum is faster at
> solving some problems if you have really bad soil.
>
> I had very good success with gypsum when I found that the large organic
> garden at my previous rural home had soil pH of 8.2 due to the previous
> owner's dumping of 4 cords worth of wood ash per year on a 5000-square foot
> plot. Most nutrients are locked up at the pH, and there's no way I could get
> enough mulch to buffer the pH. I added about 300 lbs of gypsum over the
> course of 4 months, and found that the pH had dropped to 7.0.

Which is better to lower pH, wettable sulphur or gypsum? I would imagine the 
former as it is a natural amendment.
I am considering planting a cash crop of blueberries which do very well in my area. I have limed the area where they are 
to be planted and may need to lower the pH for the blues. The liming consisted of applications of dolomitic lime, 
aragonite and high calcium lime.

Any suggestions?
--
Lawrence F. London, Jr.
Venaura Farm
lfl@intrex.net
info@market-farming.com
IM: lawrence.london@pandion.be & lfl@amber.org.uk
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