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nafex - Re: [nafex] Fruit trees -- high water table

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  • From: Road's End Farm <organic87@frontiernet.net>
  • To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [nafex] Fruit trees -- high water table
  • Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2017 12:06:43 -0500


On Jan 7, 2017, at 11:36 AM, Lee Reich wrote:

> Just a short comment on Rivka’s last paragraph. Wood chips are relatively
> high in carbon with respect to nitrogen, so will temporarily tie up
> nitrogen — but only if mixed into the soil. Laid on top of the ground,
> breakdown is gradual, and at the interface of the mulch and the soil. A
> dynamic equilibrium then exists where tie up of nitrogen is offset by its
> slow re-release into the soil. This is not just theory; I’ve used wood
> chips as mulch for decades, always with good results, and have talked to
> others with similar experiences. The same could even be said for sawdust,
> which I’ve also occasionally used as mulch.

Thanks for adding that clarification, Lee. As I understand that, that's quite
true. I was thinking of the wood (probably chipped) being mixed into the
planting holes during planting, and/or being thought of as immediately
remediating any soil problems.


On Jan 7, 2017, at 11:57 AM, Steven Covacci wrote:

> Would the effect of ash wood raining the pH
> be permanent, or does this effect dissipate?

Rather like the lime: it can be long-lasting, but will eventually dissipate.

I wouldn't keep applying wood ash to the same small patch year after year --
I once accidentally got the pH way too high in a garden patch that way, years
ago. Vary where you apply, and keep an eye on the soil tests -- for potash
levels as well as pH. It's unlikely that one household is going to produce
enough of the stuff to overload several acres, though.



-- Rivka; Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
Fresh-market organic produce, small scale








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