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[Robert Bruns <r.fred.bruns@gmail.com>]

I have M. nigra "Noir de Spain" in a pot.  I overwintered it in a cool
greenhouse where the temperature was set to 60 degrees but got down as low
as 35 on extremely cold nights.  The plant sprouted about a month ago,
which implies that your option D would work.

A few years ago, my previous greenhouse had its heater fail on a night when
the temperature got down to minus 15.  My Morus nigra survived, but my figs
didn't.  So your options A and B might work, but I think they are iffy.  In
your option C, I'm sure the plant would leaf out in the basement.

Good luck!

Fred
central Indiana, zone 6 (formerly zone 5b)


On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 12:11 PM, Nathan Wilson <nathan.b.c.wilson@gmail.com
> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> What are the chilling requirements of morus nigra?
> 1. Minimum chilling hours needed to ensure fruit set the next year.
> 2. Maximum temperature that 'counts' as chilling hours.
> 3. What conditions trigger the plants to break dormancy?
> 4. What are the lowest short-term and long-term temperatures the plant will
> survive?
>
> Background information: As mentioned in a previous post, I'm in zone 5/6
> and have morus nigra in 87 litre (23 U.S. gal) pots.
>
> I'm weighing my options:
> A. Bury the plants in winter, just like some people do with figs. I'm not
> sure if morus nigra is hardy enough for this.
> B. Put the plants in an unheated, detached garage over winter. I think it
> would get far too cold in January and February and would kill the plants,
> although I haven't documented temperatures yet.
> C. Leave the plants outside until around Christmas to satisfy chilling
> requirements, then put them in a cool basement, which is presently 12 deg C
> (54 deg F), and hope the plants don't break dormancy before I can bring
> them back outside.
> D. Greenhouse: I have a mekeshift greenhouse setup in my cellar door
> stairway. The temperature fluctuates, but I can control it to a point. The
> benefit of having the plants in the greenhouse is that I think it could
> reduce the number of years it takes the plants to bear, by making them
> slightly healthier and more vigorous (this was pointed out by Lee Reich).
> But, perhaps I can't have my cake and eat it too.
>
> Any input or experiences would be appreciated.
>
> -Nathan
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