North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Lee Reich <lreich@hvc.rr.com>]

The vinegar is undiluted, that is, sprayed directly as is, with the addition of the 1 and 2 tablespoons of detergent and canola oil. 

By the way, the USDA has been researching the use of vinegar as an herbicide and their findings differ slightly from mine. More importantly, though, the last I heard, they were working with 20% vinegar solutions rather than the 6% used in salad dressings and cooking. The 20% is more effective but, to me, that benefit is offset by its increasing hazard to skin, eyes, and lungs. Also, 6% vinegar is what you get from fermentation, without further processing. I purchase cider vinegar in bulk from a local cider mill.

 

Lee Reich, PhD

http://www.leereich.com/

http://leereich.com/blog.html.

Books by Lee Reich:

A Northeast Gardener's Year

The Pruning Book

Weedless Gardening

Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden

Landscaping with Fruit

On May 18, 2010, at 11:13 AM, Brungardt, Sam (MPCA) wrote:

Lee, is this for mixing up 1 gallon?  In other words, how much vinegar?  Thanks. -- Sam

 

From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Reich
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 9:16 PM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] OT: alternative herbicides

 

I use regular 6% vinegar to which I add 2 tablespoons of canola oil and 1 tablespoon of Ivory dish detergent. It's very effective at burning green tissue if the temperature is above 70 degrees. Of course, the leaves need to be repeatedly burned to kill the roots.

 

Lee Reich, PhD

http://www.leereich.com/

http://leereich.com/blog.html.

 

Books by Lee Reich:

A Northeast Gardener's Year

The Pruning Book

Weedless Gardening

Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden

Landscaping with Fruit

 

 

 

 

 

 

On May 17, 2010, at 9:30 PM, mIEKAL aND wrote:

You could nuke it with agricultural vinegar....  tho I recommend sheet mulching...

 

 

On May 17, 2010, at 5:00 PM, Lon J. Rombough wrote:

In some cases I've had good results scalping the area with the closest possible mowing, followed immediately with 6 or more inches of spoiled hay.  I put 6 tons of hay on a 40 x 50 garden plot last year and just planted through it.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers Association "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003. 
Grape pruning video: http://www.bunchgrapes.com/dvd.html View a short, low resolution clip here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q58zFY0B1M
A video about The Grape Grower : http://cookingupastory.com/index.php/2008/04/18/the-grape-grower/

On May 17, 2010, at 2:24 PM, Hilborn.E@epamail.epa.gov wrote:

Thanks Lucky! That will definitely work for small areas. And I agree, I
can probably stop that fescue pretty quickly with NC sunpower!

I am looking for another solution for a bigger and more fragmented
area.  I have heard of people using flame.  Has anyone tried that?  I
need a method for wooded and grassy areas, I sure don't want to set my
place on fire, and I will be far from a water hose.

 

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