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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] Killing grapevines

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  • From: "Mark Angermayer" <hangermayer@isp.com>
  • To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Killing grapevines
  • Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 07:22:59 -0500

One clarification, if you're using it on grapes 2,4-D should work fine,
since most grapes are very sensitive to it. I took out some wild grapes on
a friend's property this summer using 2,4-D on the foliage.. Lon's method
is safer if your worried about nearby broadleaf plants.

Mark
KS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Angermayer" <>
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Killing grapevines


> My 41% glyphosate label states to pour the concentrate on the stump of
> trees. It's so potent I doubt it wouldn't work any time of the year.
I've
> used it in the fall on "hard to kill" trees like maple with success. The
> label says there is little risk of the herbicide translocating to roots of
> other trees. In my experience it is more effective on stumps than 2-4D.
If
> you really want something potent, Tordon will take down anything, but it
has
> carryover and may kill connected roots. Roundup does not break down
> quickly, but is still considered safe. The reason is that it binds
tightly
> to organic matter which renders it inert in plant uptake. It stays put in
> the soil until it breaks down.
>
> Mark
> KS
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Demmon" >
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Killing grapevines
>
>
> > Glyphosate, i.e. Roundup supposedly breaks down quickly in soil, and
> > is in my experience, not harmful to other plants around if applied to
> > a cut stump at rates up to 52% active ingredient. Cut the stump, and
> > apply herbicide within 5 minutes. You need to use at least 20%
> > glyphosate. Only time this won't work is when sap is rising in spring.
> > Triclopyr is also effective, however I am less familiar with its side
> > effects on the soil and other plants.
> >
> > -matt z5 se mi
> >
> > On 10/5/09, William C. Garthright <wrote:
> > > I need to kill a couple of grapevines that are close (8 - 10 ft.) to
> > > other trees and vines. If I cut off the vine and poison the cut end,
do
> > > I have to worry about damage to the roots of any of my nearby
plantings?
> > >
> > > I've got some brush-killer (Ferti-lome Brush Killer/Stump Killer,
which
> > > is apparently /triclopyr/). I know it works very well, but I haven't
> > > used it since I started planting fruit trees. I think it sticks around
> > > for awhile. I've also got RoundUp, but I don't know if that will work
> > > when applied to a cut trunk.
> > >
> > > Basically, I'm just worried about causing unintentional harm to other
> > > trees and vines through root contact. Do I need to worry about that at
> all?
> > >
> > > FYI, I'm just getting rid of a couple of grape varieties that ripen at
> > > the same time as my Concord grapes. I'm just swamped with grapes then
> > > (since I have two Concord vines), and I don't like these much, anyway.
> > > One is a Caco grape, which I've had for several years (planted on a
> > > whim, before I was interested in fruit, when I saw a "grapevine" on
sale
> > > in a local nursery). It grows great, but the grapes are always too
sour.
> > > My Allwood grape is just a year old, but unlike the others I planted,
> > > this doesn't ripen early. And - this year, at least - the grapes just
> > > tasted... bland.
> > >
> > > I might plant another early grape, though. A year ago, I also planted
> > > Jupiter, Swenson Red, and Kay Gray, and they were wonderful this year.
> > > They ripened one after the other, which was really nice. And I got
> > > grapes when I was especially hungry for them. While I'm posting here
> > > anyway, does anyone have a suggestion for a very early table-grape
(even
> > > earlier than Jupiter, if that's possible - otherwise, just something
> > > different)? I like a variety of tastes. And seeded or seedless is
fine.
> > > My only remaining location is shaded in the morning, if that matters
> > > (I'm trying to reserve SOME sunny spots for my garden).
> > >
> > > Yeah, I really don't need to plant any more fruit,... but it's
> > > addicting, isn't it? :-)
> > >
> > > Bill
> > > Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
> > >
> > > --
> > > Human beings are born equal but cultures are not. They are human-made
> > > and for the most part man-made. There is nothing sacred about cultures
> > > and nothing blasphemous about reforming them. - Irshad Manji
> > >
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> > --
> > -matt demmon
> > _______________________________________________
> > nafex mailing list
> > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
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