North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Jwlehman@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/25/2009 2:22:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lucky.pittman@murraystate.edu writes:

> At 12:58 PM 3/25/2009, you wrote:
> >I've heard that persimmons are very difficult to move successfully, 
> >but have nothing to lose in trying since they are in a place where 
> >they are not wanted.
>
> Scott,
> I've moved dormant persimmons - both in fall and late winter/early 
> spring - and can't really tell that one is better or worse than another.
> I'm getting to the point that I much prefer to graft onto established 
> seedlings, started from seed or nut where I want them growing rather 
> than dedicating a couple of years growing the rootstock in nursery 
> beds, grafting &growing them out for another year or two, and then 
> losing the graft due to the fact that I'm probably not going to be 
> coming back and doing anything in the way of aftercare - I just don't 
> have time.
>
> Lucky 


Scott,

My experience matches Lucky's. I like late fall transplanting as they are dormant and don't need watering, Just pulverize the soil and place back in the hole. Winter rains take care of watering. Might be a good idea to mulch over it as frost goes deeper in loose soil and could damage roots. It is then ready to begin early spring root growth.  

I totally agree, it is best to plant the seeds where the final resting place is to be then graft if place. For one thing then transplanting a seedling if the root system is damaged and the laterals aren't well spaced around the tree, it may never be, leaving a weak area where it can blow over in a few years. Also if a grafted hard wood (and persimmon is a hard wood) tree comers under stress due to lack of moisture (watering) they will abort the graft. Grafting in place eliminates this danger. My apologizes to my many friends in the nursery business. 

Order fall shipping. :-) 

Jerry  


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