If it is codling moth and/or apple maggot that is the main problem with one
or more varieties I'll tell you a little story. One person in our area
told me that he had a number of trees in his small orchard and every year the
apple maggot or codling moth was very bad in his Chehalis apple tree and not
very bad in the others around it. So since he wasn't getting any use from
the Chehalis tree he decided he would take it out. Well, guess what
happened to the other trees in his orchard? Since the flies for the worms
didn't have the Chehalis to go to the other varieties were much worse. He
didn't gain anything by taking the Chehalis out. Just something to think
about.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 12:12
PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Cut down apple
trees?
Thanks for the responses, all, here's what I can add.
Regarding bugs, we have them all, since I'm surrounded by old
crabapples, wild apples, hawthorns, cedars, etc. I think I have the
worst case: a few small heirloom trees in the midst of acres of great habitat
for all these bugs and fungii. One year the curculio were so
numerous I couldn't believe it; the next year, I almost didn't see any.
Last year I had my best results with three sprays (as I recall) of
malathion/captan up until the apples were about nickel sized, then I bagged
them with baggies. Previously I used sulfur and Surround
with not as good results, since more spraying is required and I have trouble
keeping up with it (kids, job, etc), particularly in the summer. I
intend to keep going with the bagging; I'd like to get away from the
malathion/captan though.
I think the biggest bug problem is codling moth. The curculio are
bad but are only there for a while; but I'm assuming that the codling moth
have several generations that cause problems later in the year for the later
ripening apples. Oriental fruit moth are around too, since they are all
over my peaches, but I don't know if they are bothering the apples. I
don't think that apple maggot are a big problem typically. One year
I sprayed a fair amount of Bt; I didn't seem to get good contol of
whatever lepidoptra were there though.
Jim - the trees are kind of lawn trees: they are in a lawn, but in their
own raised beds of ~ 4' diameter with cobblestone borders. I did this
since the soil conditions underneath were crummy (clay). I don't
fertilize the lawn much, but I guess once or twice a year I do spread some
organic fertilizer (milorganite). At the beginning of each season,
I usually mix in a few shovelfuls of compost and some balanced organic
fertilizer under each tree. I did have the soil tested last year but I
don't have the results with me. It came back "OK" as I remember, nothing
stood out. I had been curious as to whether there were any soil
parameters that would affect water core, since not only Tompkins King gets it,
but also the Lymans Large Summer to a lesser extent, and I've even seen it in
some of the other trees occasionally.
I'll read up on topworking and grafting; I hadn't considered that
option. I have Michael Phillips' book which I think covers it to some
extent, but I've glossed over it in the past.
Mark
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Alan Haigh"
<alandhaigh@gmail.com>
Another question is, how many seasons are
these evaluations based on? If it's less than 3 I'd be very
suspicious- last year was a rare low curculio one over here in NY so
I'd not base much on it. It was also a low humid summer. Even if
you are disappointed in the varieties that certainly is no reason to cut
them down. If it's too late to graft new varieties this year, lop off
some large branches and stick some new wood on some selected water
sprouts next spring (easier for the beginner than cleft grafts and they grow
like a bat out of hell). If they are on dwarf rootstock than you
might just replant if you don't mind the expense.
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