North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Alexander Dragotin <a_dragotin@yahoo.de>]

It seems, that the best way for callusing and rooting of cuttings or grape cuttings is the providing right temperature and humidity of the upper and down part of the cuttings.

To realize this there are necessary at least three control regulations in one independent from the weather conditions arrangement.

Two of them have to control temperature. One should control the temperature in the bottom of the cuttings located for example in perlite/peat compound and the second the temperature of the surrounding the upper part air. The third one has to control the humidity of the air.

I think the needed conditions can be realized in the following manner:

First thick‑walled pot is made up of thermal insulating material as expanded polystyrene. Inside the pot is placed provided with temperature sensor sealed low voltage heater. Then the pot is filled with the perlite/peat compound and the cuttings. Temperature regulator has to care for right bottom temperature (for example) of 80 F.

To provide for lower temperature of the upper cuttings part the pot with the cuttings is put in a top‑opening freezer. The freezer is equipped with another temperature sensor and regulator for keeping the air temperature in the interior room to (for example) 40 F.

In the interior room are added humidity sensor and ultrasonic air humidifier. A third regulator care for the right humidity of the air, surrounding the top part of the cuttings.

There must be found the right way to ensure the needed moisture of the perlite/peat compound. It can be continuous water drop. The bottom of the top should be of course perforated.

The top‑opening freezer should not be closed completely to ensure fresh air to avoid rot.

If the rooting cuttings need light, the top cover could be replaced with wooden board and windows glass.

  I would try it. Comments are
 welcome.
Alexander

Mark and Alisha Fehringer <markandalishafehringer@peetzplace.com> schrieb:
>  Hi,
> I have Lon's book and have read and re-read the section on callusing several
> times.  I have rooted grapes before using the 'plant directly in the ground
> and hope for the best method', but I am starting to demand more predictable
> results. The combintation of low humidity, high winds and intense sunlight
> in my area dries out rootless cuttings in no time.  The best luck I've had
> was packing cuttings in a plastic lined box, and putting the box in the
> furnace/water heater room in an upstairs apartment where the temperature
> stayed around 80 degrees.  However, I don't live there anymore.  Also, when
> doing that, many cuttings leafed before callusing and rooting.  I think this
> is partly due to cuttings
>  taken very late in the spring.  Do cuttings need
> air to callus?  A callusing temperature of 80-85 degrees is recommended, but
> can warmer temperatures be used?  How warm is too warm? Soil temperatures in
> a black pot sitting in a sunny window have gone over 100 degrees on the
> sunny side.  Using a heat lamp, I can adjust the temperature fairly
> accurately by changing the distance.  Has anyone else used a fairly
> controlled environment to callus that produces reasonably consistent,
> predictable results?
> Mark
>
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