North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[tanis grif <tanisgrif@yahoo.com>]

Thanks.  I'd often thought I should experiment on budding & chip grafting, so 
I can
report on the comparison, but never get around to it.  

Some observations:
  
I like the splice graft method-- one long diagonal cut on the scion, and one 
long
diagonal (and preferably matching) cut on the rootstock.  It is very simple 
AND
SAFE.

The full width tape overlaps pretty easily, and no further coatings or sealers
needed.  I think if you were very careful, you could overlap the 1/2 width, 
and
still not need extra sealers.  But, keeping the graft/budding union moist is 
VERY
important, so check for the gaps KQ describes.

I always use full width tape, but I use pretty uniform diameter scionwood, 
near
3/16".  Smaller than this and the bark is so delicate that the scionwood 
doesn't
hold up well, maybe because the splice-graft method makes the scionwood even
thinner!

True-- DON'T cover buds with this tape!  And remember to pluck out any 
unnecessary
buds which might be covered by the tape.  The tape messes up bud growth, and 
bud
growth messes up the tape!

Remember to pre-stretch the tape before you wrap the graft.



--- K Q <> wrote:

> Mark, I have used this tape for tying up chip bud grafts. Cut yourself a 2 
> inch
> length of tape, then cut it down the middle, lengthwise to obtain two narrow
> pieces. For chip buds, I never cover the actual dormant bud.
> 
> Half width sections also work well for regular whip and tongue grafts. I 
> like half
> width better than full width. For really tiny grafts, I have even used 1/3 
> and 1/4
> width tape, but that is an exception. 99% of my grafts use half width tape.
> 
> There may occur small gaps between the tape and scion/stock interface, so 
> what I
> do is insert tiny pieces of modeling clay (kids version) where ever I see an
> airgap. Use either a pencil or toothpick to manipulate such small 
> quantities of
> modeling clay! Think of yourself as a plant dentist.
> This clay functions also to keep the grafting glue from running into the 
> said gap
> and screwing up the chip bud or T-bud.
> 
> Then I will paint a small amount of grafting glue over the clay to bind it 
> to the
> tape or stock. The effect is to totally seal out the effects of drying air. 
> Drying
> is deadly to a chip bud or T-buds.
> 
> Kenneth Quattlebaum
> 
> 
> 
> 


 
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