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  • From: "Thomas Olenio" <tolenio@sentex.net>
  • To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Moving sensitive plants
  • Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 08:24:28 -0400

Hello,

I had success moving mature dwarf trees, but it takes planning and time.

1) In early August root prune to the size of root ball
you will dig. As large as possible (think three people
required to move it on a tarp).

2) Reduce foliage by 1/3rd, and water new rootball area with
willow water (or similar commercial rooting hormone).

3) Water until dormant or early autumn

This prepares the tree for the shock by reducing canopy and it's water needs, while encouraging new rooting within the rootball area.

Once you have it moved, it has to watered for the whole first growing season, and all fruit removed that first year.

The actual rootball creation requires trenching the tree deeply, then undermining the rootball so it stands on a pedistal. Wrap rootball with chicken wire and burlap, then break earth pedistal. Place wrapped rootball on tarp and slide to new location (unless yu have access to heavy equipment).

Later,
Tom


On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 08:01:22 -0400, Jim Fruth <jfruth@uslink.net> wrote:

Reading Mark Angermayer's experience about his tree dying after moving
it in summer reminded me of how I do it.
Moving bareroot squash or pumpkin plants always resulted in plant death
until I removed all fully formed leaves, leaving only the growing point and,
maybe, one still-curled leaf. Then, all such moves resulted in success. I
tried the same technique on established grape vines with equal success while
the plants were actively growing. Fully formed, functioning, leaves lose
more water to the atmosphere faster than the roots of newly moved plants can
take up water from the soil. Removing leaves interrupts that process. If I
ever had to move a tree, I'd bet this technique would work on it too.



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