North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["O'Barr, R. D." <topgun@otelco.net>]

I have also wrapped trunks and branches that had bark knocked off with
electrician's tape and when removed some months later the area was as good
as new. The sooner after the injury the better.
Topgun
Zone 7
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Heron Breen" <breen@fedcoseeds.com>
To: <breen@fedcoseeds.com>; "North American Fruit Explorers"
<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bark Damage


> The "maine" issue is what to do about the deer who dealt the blows. Fences
are
> expensive compared to freezer meat. Young buck are repeat offenders,
overzealously
> staking claim to a tiny area with little reproductive results. Older bucks
visit
> more spots, and seem to consider one good thrashing good to go for a
while.
>
> If you have any branch damage, stub cut near the area broken and leave
until spring
> pruning to to the return best cut. This will reduce winter breakage while
not
> expecting the tree to heal in a season it does not naturally heal well in.
Return
> cut to the branch collar. Branches torn out of or stripped down the side
of their
> sockets are bad news. Don't paint anything wounded, borers are not an
issue until
> spring or early summer, at least here in Maine. If you wanted to paint
something,
> maybe paint the unwounded bark on the southwest side with white diluted
latex. Due
> to sugars/water being sucked out of wounded area during
compartmentalization, you
> may see growth next year, or you may not. Depends on lots of factors.
> Severe bark injury can actually kill/damage roots as a consequence of
sugar transit
> being interupted. Injured roots cause sunscald by disrupting vascular
reaction to
> winter sun/cold. Injuries on the southwest side are the more prone to
expansion or
> added cracks/splits/peeling.
> Trees come through many serious injuries with flying colors,
> Heron Breen
> zone 4,
> Maine
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